No Crust Racing

Actually, I'll wait til after a local car show at the end of this month before it gets advertised seriously, gotta represent my club Will replace diff and engine oil between now and then (engine oil will have done 3,000k's soon) and will try to get the car on a dyno locally when I can, will post results. Cheers

OK Guys, I've settled on what will be replacing this car so it's time to start advertising seriously (at present it's only here and I haven't exactly been trying hard to part with it ). As mentioned above I'm also open to reasonable offers and transport can be arranged as required. Cheers

EVL R33: The suspension is height and damper adjustable as far as I know, I'm not sure of the name of the shocks but I do have closer pics at home that I can PM you tonight if you'd like me to. The car has not been dyno'd as yet, wanting to get down there but finding the time is increasingly difficult with work of late, plus I need to drop the front drive shaft as the local dyno dynamics is a 2wd unit. Compression tested but not leak down tested when I bought the car, figures ranged from 149 to 154 across the 6. Would be happy to have the car comp/leak down tested again (and I encourage people to always do this when buying a turbo car) but this would be at your expense (as it was mine when I bought the car). Cheers

Michael - Are you interested in purchasing the vehicle? If not please direct your comments to PM/Email thanks The car most definitely has Xenon headlights and my understanding is such that the headlight and bonnet shape did not change across R33 GTR's. It was also my understanding that Series II's could have them optioned. Should you wish to discuss this further please do so via PM/Email. Cheers

Looks like I'm the minority here RB26's cost a fortune to rebuild though so I'm not fussed.

Was just thinking how much a stock ceramic turbo would love the flames

The harder you work the engine the faster it wears out... it's pretty basic really. As the guys said, don't make a habit of it, RB's are tough but like all engines they'll break eventually and constant high revving will only accelerate that process. Remember that engines are always in a constant state of degradation - it's only a matter of time before something needs replacing. So rev as hard as your wallet will allow I hit the limiter a few times in my last car (Series II 33) and it still had almost identical compression when I sold it (had it for 14mths and always did the servicing with good parts). If you're going to go hitting the limiter often, at least record it and show us so we can get our kicks without doing it ourselves Cheers

That's horrible news and I hope you had insurance - as was mentioned above. Good luck on getting your car back mate, I know I'd be crushed if my R was stolen =\

Few new pics added at the bottom of the first post

There's no bleed valve anywhere I can see (doesn't mean one doesn't exist just can't be easily spotted). The car is going on a dyno in the next week or two and I'll have some more conclusive numbers for everything then. Besides turbos car has full exhaust, apexi panel filter, Impul chipped ECU, splitfires, iritop plugs and seemingly more boost as far as power mods go. They could be hybrids yes, doubtful though I'd think. Where's the part number located so I can cross reference it. To know what the turbo's spinning down after the engine stops sounds like I'd need a basis for comparison so can't comment on that.

I know the restrictor is in place coz i have taken the hose offand looked at the little olive pip inside the line. I'm not sure that it's actually 13.5psi but 700mmHg on that guage is approx 13.5psi and the guage reads 7 under full boost. Yay R34 GTR turbo's, so they're ballbearing but still ceramic right? Where am I looking to see if I have the restrictors?

C'mon guys someone has to know

I was able to get these pics, can someone tell me anything from these? Actuator looks stock (still trying to work out where my boost is being controlled from) Writing says Garrett AR .53 1-2 on it (are these stock R33 GTR units?) Included a pic of the compressor if that helps at all?

Some good reading there guys and I appreciate the feedback. Still have a few unanswered questions though. - Can the R33 GTR Guage read above +7? (I know I should get a boost gauge for it and I'm going to drop the front drive shaft and fuse and put it on a local dynodynamics dyno to see what AFR's, boost and power are doing) - Can someone confirm if the Garrett AR .53 umbers on the turbo housing are right for this car as I've got conflicting info. EDIT: - How is boost being controlled if the restrictor is still in place as I thought 9psi was factory and if the guage is reading +7mmHg then that's like 13.5psi? Cheers

Was swapping over an AFM just before and I could see the front turbo housing. I could make out Garrett and A/R .53 Is that right for a Series II V-Spec?

- With regards to the guage... Could the needle actually go above 7 if the car was making that boost, does it go above and beyond the 7 on the guage or is there a pin/needle/stopper in place to stop it reading off the guage. - Why don't RB25's ingest the ceramic dust then? - What am I looking for if I remove the inlect ducting? - What are 34 GTR Turbo's worth? - how long have you been running a bar for and on what model GTR Thanks! Edit: So how is boost being controlled if the restrictor is still in place.

Yes I've searched and I've read a lot about this topic but I still have some queries I'd like clarified - car is a 96 GTR V-Spec. It appears my car is not running stock boost as the stock guage is maxed out under WOT (I think that equates to around 13.5psi - is that gauge limited or would it go above 7 if it could?) From what I've read GTR turbo's do not like being boosted above 1bar (14.7psi yes?) which puts me close to the maximum limit of the turbo capability - oh dear. For reference the stock boost restrictor little olive thing is still in the line so I'm assuming the chipped ECU is controlling boost - it's an Impul unit. I've also read that GTR's ingest the ceramic dust and often times can a blown turbo can cost you a motor - how does that work given it's the exhaust wheel that's ceramic? I'm also wondering if there's a chance these turbo's were high flowed - is there any easy way to tell this without pulling them off as I also read that removing them vastly increases the chance they will die. Ok so I've asked... - Is the stock boost guage limited in it's range? - How do RB26's ingest the ceramic dust from a blown turbo? - Is there any easy way to check the turbo's for any modifications? - Just decided I'd like to know if 34 GTR turbo's are a worthwhile upgrade(what are they worth? I know the only main difference is they're ball bearing) considering slide can do a pair for $1500 that are good for 300kw's and are steel wheel. - What experience have people had running 1 Bar on stock turbo's? Some of you will know that I'm selling my car but given that I'm not trying very hard to sell I'm still toying with upgrade ideas and continuing the maintenance cycle etc. Cheers

You say that like it's a good thing....

LoL Crap I thought these seats were getting tighter...

As long as compression is more or less even you're fine.

Welcome to the crew. RB power FTW =D (if only Skylines weren't so heavy!) *puts flame suit on..*

As mentioned in the original post there are other reasons why I'm selling the car. I'd appreciate it if people could refrain from posting unless they have genuine interest in the car. Happy to hear what you have to say via PM/Email.

350z: No log books sorry so can't confirm the K's. Compression test was excellent when I bought it and I'd be happy for it to be done again, no wear on interior besides some discolouration on the driver side side bolster from being rubbed against. Seeing/Driving the car gives you a much better impression of condition than K's on the odometer though and this drives and presents very well. Cheers

I had 18x8.5" +35 w/ 235's on the front of my Series II (18x9.5" +?? w/ 265's on the back) Front's were fine other than a full lock turn coming down a gutter or something, would just rub the inside plastic. Back's required some very minor lipping of the guard. Hope that helps.

That's fine for a GTS25T GTR's are lower numbers, 10-20 range.