No Crust Racing

*raises hand* Yes please

Woa, that's a bit much! I'll happily get a scan of my policy when I'm home tonight if you need proof. From what I've heard with my mates trying to go through Shannons, you get shafted if you're young. Seriously though, 3k is a joke!

Just Cars quote for my first GTS25T was over 2k and Shannons did it for 900 with the exact same info. I'm not sure how that works and not saying you arew wrong, just relaying my experiences with the two. I'd say speak with them both and see how you go.

I had my Series II GTS25T and My Current Car (S2 GTR) done with Shannons. GTS25T was about 900 including my mods (I'm 24 w/ rating 1) and the GTR is a bit over 1k also inc all the mods.

ROFL A domestic sedan is basically a wagon/van/suv when compared to the GTR It's the right size for what I do.

Acquired - thanks!

LoL! That's an AWESOME Idea =D Get to keep my RB26 power lol. Something about driving a wagon though.... =\

As stated, just need one but if you've got two and don't want to seperate then maybe we can work something out. Cheers

Linked as they're a bit big. Note that the Nismo Gear Knob shown has been replaced with a Black Nismo Leather Knob as the metal one got really hot easily. Pic Pic Pic Pic Pic

Some of you will know I only just recently purchased this car but a change in my role at work will mean this car is not suitable any longer. It was already kind of not suitable as it was but I'll now be doing more K's and need to carry a fair bit of gear with me and don't want to put the K's on this immaculate car (nor do I have the space for 2 PowerEdge servers, those things are huge!). Details are as follows. 1996 Series II R33 GTR V-Spec Midnight Purple 38XXXK's Pioneer Head Unit After Market Front/Rear Speakers Nismo Gear Knob Genuine GTR Floor Mats Mongoose M80 Alarm w/ Keyless Entry Xenon Headlights Nismo Clear Front and Side Indicators Volk LE37 Forged Racing Wheels w/ Dunlop 255's all round - Good Tread Rays Engineering Wheel Nuts & Valve Caps HKS Coilover Suspension Nismo Upper/Lower Control Arms Alloy Subframe Bushes Ganador Titanium Cat Back Exhaust (Quiet until desired) SARD High Flow CAT Nismo Front/Dump Pipes Apexi Power Intake Panel Filter Impul Chipped ECU ADRAD FMIC (Bigger than the stock item) Splitfire Coil Packs R34 GTR Turbo's (Ball Bearing) NGK IRITOP Plugs (Next Step up from Iridiums and gapped at .6mm standard) Nismo Radiator Cap Tinted Windows Just Serviced with Fuchs Super Syn Oil and Nissan Oil Filter and Plugs as listed above. The car drives beautifully and is in excellent condition. Can be driven quiet easily around town with minimal fuss and with minimal attention from the wrong people. As is to be expected, it is also quite a capable performer both on the straights and through the bends. I came from a Series II GTS25T to this car and there is no comparison between the two - GTR's really are that much better in my opinion. Looking for 34,000 ONO - This will include RWC and car is Reg'd in Vic til April. I'm not interested in trades as I'm sourcing a suitable car through work (novated lease). I'm on the VIC/NSW Border in Albury Wodonga - Transport can be arranged as required. Please do not inquire or request an inspection/test drive unless you're serious about purchasing the car. Happy to field questions as required if I've left anything out. Can be reached via PM, email ([email protected]) and mobile 0428234999 More pics can be taken on request but here's some to give you an idea. ****EDIT**** More pics taken recently

Yeah I'd rather have it than not too -if given the choice. Given another choice... I'd rather have the car that had it fitted factory than by some import yard looking to fleece someone for a buck.

Haha =D I Started out in a Commodore but yeah I see it as step down but into a more balance car overall for my job and lifestyle - Getting a bit sensible in my old age =D

Don' shoot me but I'm considering selling my GTR and going to a VZ Clubby =\ 6L is a lot of engine!

The unichip should not lose any info from being reset. Speak with them if you're concerned.

On a stock R33 there is no MAP sensor, Air/Fuel is done via the AFM near the airbox. A MAP is another way of handling Air/Fuel calculations, it is not a boost control device. I think there was a simple misunderstanding is all Side Note: 19psi?! Geez! What power are you making and on what turbo!? Feel free to respond via PM as not to hijack this thread.

LoL I picked up on that too. R33's are AFM from factory for those playing along at home=)

It's usually a good idea to tune again for new parts but that dpeends on what they are. Normally coils are put in to assist with higher boost levels so a re-tune is mandatory in your situation it shouldn't be necessary. Removing the POD will have bugger all affect (see that various cars are making crazy power with stock airboxes and panels etc) but the BOV will have an effect as having a venting BOV upsets the amount of air in the system typically meaning the car will run rich as there's less air in the system at combustion time than there was when the calculations were made. Anyone feel free to correct me Especially about the coils

An ECU reset is on the cards it seems ^_^

I moved from my SII 33 GTS25T to an SII GTR V-Spec so that wasn't so hard but only after a short period of owning it I'm considering selling it and moving to something a little more practical for my line of work (in which I have to lug bits around and do a few K's now) so that might be a diff story when someone launches it down my street after having collected it =D Keep your chin up, I don;t wanna get flamed bad for this but in the end it's just a car and I'm sure ther eare many more things in your life to be thankful for =D

If a solid AAC clean doesn't do it, try cleaning your AFM also. Let us know how you go.

A friend of mine is on his P's and drives a manual SII R33 without any drama's (been pulled over plenty). I was under the impression they were listed by Vicroads as being acceptable? I'd defintley be gviving them a call to confirm. 16k will get you a SII 33 in turbo/auto form. Good luck.

Not sure what hardware/software you're using but I'd assume most people don't have it. A reset is pretty straight forward.

The ECU will adjust itself accordingly if you reset it then take it for a hard drive. Resetting is very easy and basically involves disconnecting the battery and pumping the brake pedal (to drain any residual power) then reconnecting the ECU and going for a hard drive. During this period the ECU will adjust timing and listen for knock and adjust timing again accordingly as well as adjust other variables as required. Good idea to do it after new mods.

Changing to another Cat might get you some more power but as far as giving the car back it's response there are no cheap or easy ways that don't involve reducing total power output. The nature of turbo cars is essentially lag, run more boost, get a FMIC, get a full exhaust, all reduces initial response or give more lag but increased power/torque everywhere else. You could try borrowing a mates Cat to experiment with how they affect the car if you're that concerned.

Didn't realise you were talking GTR sorry as the car we're discussing here is RB25DET - my bad ^_^ Munkyb0y: There's a bit to be gained from using a genuine jap high flow compared to locally produced units. BATMBL has some decent group buy items also that may be worth considering. The JustJap item comes in the $699 Turbo back system so you can imagine it's quality and flow rates given a really good cat generally costs 300+ on its own. Not to say it's not better than stock but just to point out there are better options.