No Crust Racing

The issue of safe boost level on stock ceramic GTR turbo's is a contentious one. Many people have safely run about a bar with no issues, many others have reported turbo failures and in some cases engine damage from ceramic dust being ingested. The decision is yours but be warned that pushing the ceramic turbo's WILL reduce their life and increase the risk of failure as does pushing any component harder.

I'd be getting a second opinion before you start ripping it apart. Try to find a reputable tuner/mechanic with Import/GTR experience. Explain the situation to him so he can inspect the wastegates and go from there. Good luck, let us know how you go

Did you install the PowerFC? Are you sure there's not a boost control module for the PFC installed somewhere? It does sound like he's doing something wrong though, you should be able to vary boost by 'some' amount if it's on the right line. I've not fitted a controller to my GTR (only had it a week) but on my Series II GTS25T it was installed on the vacuum line between the Intercooler pipe work and the Wastegate actuator. Make sure it's installed the right way too, if it's not it will boost all over the place and you'll be picking up RB26 pieces =\

Just got the call then and the AutoElec is confident the AFM is at fault as it's giving error codes which confirms my suspicions. I've having him give the wiring into the AFM a once over but otherwise will be trying the AFM repair tutorial listed on here tonight and seeing how we go (also sourcing another AFM just incase it can't be repaired) Received my IRITOP's today also so they can go in as well. Let you all know how I go later.

New Igniters are worth crazy dollars, check the for sale section, pay attention to cars being wrecked. I'd advise trying one from a mates car if possible first. I thought I had a bad one and tested another module it to find it was not the issue. Good luck.

A stuck wastegate will stop you running higher boost for sure but if your mechanic/tuner can't ascertain the nature of the fault then you might want to consider taking it somewhere else. A good mechanic/tuner is worth his/her weight in gold, especially when talking boost. Have you ever been able to run more than 9? Does it have a stock computer (My 33 GTR has the stock boost restrictor in place but was running 13psi - found it had an aftermarket computer). 2nd opinion can never hurt, try to find someone who knows Imports and particularly GTR's.

Certainly sounds like the stock clutch is slipping under load. There's a group buy on here from C & B who does Exedy HD kits, I bought one but never fitted it before I sold the car but the price and service was excellent and would suit your application. It's important to confirm that this is the case though before you go throwing money at it, when it's revving away is it actually moving any faster or is it simply revving a lot but not making much more forward momentum? So if you're doing say 50 in second and plant it does it simply rev up but not add much speed? This would indicate a failing clutch. Good luck.

LoL, you guys are nuts, *unsubscribe* =D

LoL So you both own the only Z-Tune in Australia hey... How can that be when I'm the owner! I'll take a slab for it, it uses too much fuel anyway and 500HP is boring compared to my Modded Delorian!

LoL, I see how you guys get your post counts up You especially Dezz! =D

Thanks heaps for the info, I'll have a look at the tutorial but it seems more wiring than actual AFM related to me given I could hold the wires and earth myself to get various results. I think we're on the right track though and hopefully the AutoElec is worth his hourly fee =D

LoL, because they've all got few years on them now and like all cars they do wear out. Most of us prefer to do the work ourselves, which takes time, for reasons such as.. - Don't trust workshops - Save on parts/labour - Want to learn - Enjoy working on cars (for me especially as I work in IT so working on my car is a nice break) I'm sure the list goes on and on =D Buy one, you'll love it and the Pro's far outway the Con's as long as you're smart about your purchase. Always get a professional inpsection, compression test and leakdown test =)

That's plenty for me, cheers. I'll let everyone know what the AutoElec says tomorrow fingers crossed it's just a wiring/earthing issue doesn't need parts as well as labour =D

When do the stock ones run out of flow?

All the time... but you have to fix it before you can sell it and once it runs right again there's no way it's going anywhere. Only sold my GTS25T because i upgraded to a GTR.. so that's a fair reason to sell =D

Sounds very familiar! Though been single for a couple months so not an issue of late =D "If it's got tits or wheels it's trouble" No luck with My R last night, Corolla FTW again today - will change some parts tonight and if there's no success it goes in to autoelec tomorrow.

Nope not as yet, didn't bother last night as it seemed AFM related and more so related to the plug/wiring than the actual AFM itself. CMS: This isn't random it happens every time I drive the car after 10mins or so. It also did it last night straight away after starting, wouldn't rev past 2500.

Well that's a bonus What'r Nismo ones worth and when do the stock ones become a restriction?

If I d/c'd the AFM it just idled right up, didn't drive it like that obviously. What are AFM's worth if it's bad - though I'm leaning more towards a bad earth/connection etc.

Tried an ignition module tonight, no change. Noticed that when I dropped the bonnet that the car stuttered, thought it was alarm based fiddled, no change. Fiddled with AFM wires and got varying reactions depending on which wires I hold and if I earth them or not. Noted some elec tape on the AFM plug wires, peeled it back, looks good enough but something has been done there before. Pulled the airbox out, cleaned the AFM's and their plugs and tried to wrap the wires separately to ensure no earthing, put it all back together, same problem is evident. idle has also at 1200rpm too, this was evident before I did my stuff tonight. If I try to rev above say 2500 it misfires at all temps which suggested coils/plugs (new plugs are arriving tomorrow anyway so they'll go in and I'll inspect each coil individually while I'm there (they're splitfires and the car has 35,000k's so if they're genuine the coils can't be too old but in reality they could be up to ten years old - didn't think they were prone to failure though?) I pulled coil and plug number one and both appeared fine for reference. The loom that the AFM plug runs into looks a little worse for wear in my opinion too. What's everyone's thoughts? TPS? AFM's? The car is booked in to an autoelec on Thursday but if I can sort it myself and save myself another day of driving the 1.6L Corolla I'd love to =\ Cheers

Tested one tonight, it's not the problem so won't be needing one. Problem looks to be plug/afm/wiring related all near the AFM. Goes in Thursday to be sorted.

I've just joined the club myself, Series II V-Spec ^_^ I really liked my Series II GTS25T but this is worlds apart... I think.... yes... it could be..... it's LOVE =D Congrats on the purchase bud and best of luck with having a long trouble free experience! Oh and yeah, service everything don't spare the expense, if you want to drive a car of this caliber and have it run right and last then treat it properly and give it good parts and service items.

I'm hoping to get my GTR running right tonight, atm I'm driving an AE92 Corolla, 1.6L Carby with no power steering 58kw's of pure GRUNT =D I feel your pain!

Pretty damn fine for something that didn't come from Nissan... I'm not selling my GTR for it though =D http://www.leftlanenews.com/2007/01/08/mit...x-breaks-cover/

Too easy Good luck