No Crust Racing

So if I'm not in a position to be forking over 3k+ for N1's then I should probably leave the boost at stock levels, add some cam gears and get a safe tune for reliable power rather than more power but less safety. I've heard of people blowing turbo's on RB25's after 12ps which I thought were ceramic as well (mines a Series II) but never of the engine ingesting the blades, why is this such a problem on RB26's? If it's such a huge issue why do people even run 14 if the turbo's are so sensitive?

Cheers for the feedback. Looks like K & N Panel is the go, I'm currently using a K & N Pod and like the cleanable nature. With regards to boost on the stock turbos. Could the car be safely tuned for 14 or will this drastically reduce the life of the turbos? I get that you're saying don't exceed a bar but if the car is tuned for an even 14psi, will this cause issues? I understand it's a much of a muchness question in that all turbo's will eventually fail and that they could go at any time at any PSI etc. Just looking for a happy medium. The power figure mentioned, 300rwhp, which is around 225rwkw's, is that on stock boost or with boost added? I was under the impression that on around 14psi they make around 250rwkw's with a tune and cam gears. Cheers

I've done quite a bit of searching and have not found clear answers as yet. On the provision that the professional inspection/comp test goes well tomorrow I'll be taking ownership of a Series II 33 GTR V-Spec (Yay for me). It currently has a Turbo Back system and an aftermarket FMIC core but that's all, stock boost, no management, not even air filters. I'd like to do something intake wise and have come down to either Apexi Panel filters or the Apexi Power Intake Kit. If using the Intake Kit, have people been able to find a good cold air box that still uses the snorkel? If using the panel filters, is there much of a gain? I assume cleaning/servicing them is simply a matter of blowing them out with a compressor? How long do they last? In addition, can some GTR owners relay their experiences with boosting the stock turbo's as I've read plenty of horror stories of turbo's letting go and the engine inhaling ceramic dust - not pretty. Given I'm coming from a GTST with a turbo back exhaust and POD/CAI only, the GTR is certainly a step up power wise. Having said that, we all love to tinker and get more power and with this in mind I was contemplating going PowerFC and some Cam Gears and possibly some more boost at that stage, dependent on what people say about boosting the stock turbos. With this setup, and the above mentioned filters, what kind of power figure would I be looking at on stock boost and on say 12-14(I read 14 is the absolute max for stock turbo's?) All info appreciated but I'm particularly interested in hearing from other GTR owners who have done the above. Cheers

I've got FAST working but need assistance working out the letters in the model code. Here's the VIN BCNR33022549 I specifically want to know what options were fitted to this car. The model code is GGJPRWFR33ZDAA---A Cheers for the assistance =)

For those who have this same problem you can PM me for the complete instruction manual for this device. Problem is now solved. Cheers

So then this car has had them added? It clearly has them. I'll inspect for an aftermarket job when I look at the car this weekend. Is it possible/easy to do a transplant? Or is it more common to have people put in the cheapo kits?

For those playing at home, I just found this.. http://www.sumopower.com/vehicle_id.htm Still wouldn't mind clarification on Xenons and actually all V-Spec differences. I know of, Active LSD Attessa-ETS Pro Lower, Stiffer Suspension What else is there?

Crap, turns out BCNR33 is gone anyway, I must have been looking at BNCR33 today, woops.

I'm most likely about to purchase a 96 V-Spec and was considering custom plates with BCNR33 but have also seen BNR33 used in reference to 33 GTR's, which one is actually right? for the money I don't wanna stuff fit up =D I read in another thread that 96's Series II's didn't have Xenons but this car clearly has them... Anyone confirm or deny Xenon's in Series II V-Spec's? Cheers

I'm currently looking at a 96 model 33 GTR V-spec and it has Xenons (listed as factory in the sale info), am I to believe that these are not genuine? The pictures certainly show Xenons. Back to the topic, My understanding of main V-Spec differences were, ATTESA E-TS PRO 10mm lower and firmer suspension Active LSD LSD and ATTESA Pro combine to allow torque split left and right as well as front to back ike a standard GTR. It seems to be a big debate about it's merit.

That's not what I wanted to hear! Surely someone knows or has the instructions for it. I fudged it last time but have spent at least 2hrs stuffing around with it this time with no success.

I've managed to shut the start up tune off by holding down the Power button for a few seconds, but when I hold down the Select button and go to the Snd menu I can't work out how to stop it playing the end tune. I get n 1 (through to n x depending on how many tunes I lock in) PLY which plays the tunes you've locked in and Ent which I have nfi =D You'd think SND = Off would be it but that only changes the startup tune.

Thanks for the PDF, I've already had a read of that and it doesn't apply to my model.

C'mon guys help me out

I've had this timer for a while, bought it second hand so don't have and can't find complete instructions. I can stop it playing sounds when it starts up but can't stop it playing sounds when it counts down (recently had battery disconnected for a while to do some other work so the TT got reset). If someone has this time and knows how to stop it playing music on countdown please let me know before I put a screwdriver through it. Cheers

Interested to hear more on this 're-bedding business....

I'm with Shannons and highly recommend them. I've also had my contact get in touch with my mates and help them out too. Bottom line, get in touch with them and speak with them but bare in mind 18yr olds are going to have high premiums no matter what. Good luck.

*Drool*

Is this device like an SAFC or is it a cut down version with far less range of tuning? The Field AFC that is sorry Cheers

I'm after the factory Skyline rear strut brace that's visible in the boot, got it? Mine doesn't have it for some reason 0_0

DR 33 GT: As not to jack the thread I've PM'd you the pics instead as they're not rim related

That is DEAD sexy

Contact Tempe Tyres and ask them, too easy. As a set they're about 1800 new with skinny tyres but deep dish. Good luck.

In that case I might just buy one and if I don't use it I'll sell it off - then again, I might as well just fit it if I have it and make sure that it all gets done on the weekend and that everything has been replaced, ideally It shouldn't take more than a day I don't think but yeah as I said being a daily I need it mobile ASAP. Plus I don't really want to pull it apart more than once. Are there any special instructions with bedding the new clutch in or any special adjustments that need to be made anywhere, like the pedal box for example? The clutch is an Exedy HD Organic.

Thanks heaps for the info, greatly appreciated. I've heard that people replace the pivot ball which if I understand correctly operates against the selector fork? Cheers