No Crust Racing

I've had a bit of a search but with no success (is it just me or does the does the SAU search need some love?) Anyway, I'm in the process of acquiring a new clutch, mine slips if I try and pull a burnout after a 1/4 or two and I'd just like to replace it and know that it's done for safety. My car only has a cat back at the moment but the plan is to eventually aim for around basic 180-200rwkw mark that most people go for with standard bolt on bits. With this in mind I'm looking at the Exedy Kit on in the group buy section which is apparently good for 240rwkw's. That's all well and good but what else do I need to do when replacing the clutch as I'll be doing this myself (with professional assistance of course) I know I'll need to machine the fly wheel, what's that cost? I know I'll need a spriggot bush (sourced that from UAS for $25) but what else do I need and does someone have a tutorial on the process? I'm trying to get as much info now as my car is a daily and I need it for work so ideally this would be all done over a weekend and right to go on Monday. So my questions are.. -What parts do I require beyond a clutch kit (kit includes clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing as I understand), spriggot bush and having the flywheel machine? -Does someone have a tutorial for this process (As mentioned for a Series 2 33) -Any other useful information much appreciated - like anything special I should know about what clutch fluid to use etc etc -When replacing a clutch do I have to replace my box fluid? (it's only 3mths old and it's redline lightweight shock proof so cost me a few bucks). For reference the car will sometimes grin a bit going into gear at high revs under full load, I'm hoping this is the clutch slipping a little but I know it could also be the synchro's wearing out and a clutch is a much cheaper option than rebuilding a box Cheers Guys ***Quick Edit*** We already have a clutch aligning tool

Here ya go =) Starcorp Racing Impuls, Deep Dish Pack - Not bad for a very cheap set of rims. Fronts: 18x8.5" - 235's Rears: 18x 9.5" - 265's <-- Just! Car now has Cat Back too so the twins are gone and were replaced by a nice fat angled Cannon =D

Tried cleaning the TPS plugs and contacts, no change. I'm leaning toiwards thinking it may be a vacuum issue, easiest way to tell? Go to hose joins and spray with brake cleaner?

I'll try cleaning the TPS contacts, I have some cleaner handy - Cheers for the tip, interested to here more info on the vacuum leak idea.

Ok, well here's a pic showing the clutch fluid reservoir, doesn't appear to be a booster in the same way that the brakes have one. Or am I looking in the wrong spot?

I've had the ECU out before and it 'seemed' normal but I couldn't honestly say if it was right or not, the problem is intermittent thoguh so if it was ECU I doubt it would be behaving this way. As for the clutch booster, how di I tell.

No idea sorry =\

It's been intermittent since I've had the car and I've tried the things above that I mentioned and haven't really gotten far besides when I cleaned the AAC valve which seemed to stop the hunt issue. The hunt comes and goes but the idle jump on engaging the clutch and putting it into gear when approaching an interesection is pretty consistent.

Update: The idle jump issue appears to happen when I'm coasting towards an intersection, clutch in and then engage a gear, it jumps up to 11-1200 as soon as I engage 1st or 2nd... ideas?

The sensor is no more than 1yr old as I replaced it when I got the car (it was shagged) and my rego is due next week The car does smell a bit rich on start and despite checking the seals I still see fuel vapour from the filler cap so I assume the smell is coming from there. The car returns around 12.5-13L per 100 around town so that's acceptable as I understand it.

Morning Gents, I've got two different idle issues but only one occurs at any given time. 1st: A very small hunt, like 50rpm hunt, it just bounces back and forth a little, only just registers on the tacho but you can hear it in the exhaust. 2nd: If it's not doing that at idle then when gearing down to a complete stop when I put the clutch in and engage first the idle will jump to say 1100rpm then after maybe 1-2 seconds, return to normal. It will do this any time I am coming to a stop and it happens when I engage the clutch. Background, I've searched about these issues and have removed and cleaned the AAC and AFM. The AAC did have a fair bit of build-up on it and I did my best to clean it, it was literally swimming in carby cleaner For a period the idle hunt (which at the time was a bigger hunt) went away. The idle increase on clutching has not gone away. The AFM was cleaned with Electrical contact cleaner and the mesh was wiped over carefully, no change. For reference, car only has a POD with a mr_crust airbox, cat back, low boost bypass on the solenoid and a boost guage as far as mods that could interfer with air flow characteristics, these problems were evident before these mods and have seemingly not been affected by them for the better or worse. Thoughts? Otherwise I might take the AAC valve off again and totally dismantle it so I can really clean it properly but I'd like to hear other peoples thoughts on the matter. Cheers

Well after having the car in at a suspension place, they could not get it even close to under the guard, lots of investigation revealed a very small gap between the wheel hub assembly and the back of the brake dust cover, implying a small bend of some kind in the assembly. Replaced it and the stub axle and wheel bearing to be sure, problem is now gone. What bitch... Will put car back in to have rest of the alignment done and should be a cat on carpet once I finish it off with a sway bar up front.

OK it;s been up on stands and I can clearly see the problem. It is clearly a toe/camber issue, thanks Maerlin and SK and everyone else you had ideas. The hicas rod is dialled right out on the dirver side, I compared to another 33 to be sure. This should be sorted tomorrow at the tyre place. Gary can you please provide recommended settings so I have something to give the tyre place. My Car is at it's lowest and has both camber kits in the rear. Cheers

I'm putting it up on stands tonight and comparing it with a mates car, I'm hoping it will reveal itself easily. I also have the car booked in at a suspension place first thing tomorrow morning, if it's toe and camber they should be able to tell. Thanks for the suggestion. Seems a bit extreme to be toe and camber though?

There's been many posts about how quick he gets back to people. Understand that he is a one man show with a new born and that he hasn't stiffed anyone yet. Be patient, you'll get your tap soon enough just like I did. Hammering this thread or his inbox will get you no-where. For the record I am one of the most impatient SOB's out there so I know what it's like to wait, this guy has got a lot on his plate though. Cheers

If my understanding of toe is correct then I think that's unlikely as toe will allow changes to the wheel angle in regards to the axle angle, that is rather than being a 90 degree angle between wheel and axle, it could be changed. The problem we're talking about is the entire wheel sits further away from the diff than the other side. That is, something is bent which is pushing the wheel out or something is worn/damaged/misalinged and is not allowing the wheel to sit where it normall should. I've checked bushes under the car and none of them seem to show signs of lateral stress either. I'm putting a mates car up on stands tonight and taking some donor measurements from his car whichi I'll cross reference with mine to try and isolate the problem. Hopefully this isolation will be enough such that it will be easy to ascertain what part(s) are at fault. Cheers for the suggestion and if my understand of toe is incorrect please feel free to point that out and point out my misunderstanding if this could actually be the cause of the problem

If it helps - I took some measurements comapring the passenger and drivers sides and in pretty much all cases on any given point to point measurement the drivers side is out 4cm's+. Quick example being center of diff drain plug to centre of tyre on each sde shows a few cm's discrepancy. I'm at a loss to explain this as nothing hums, vibrates, squeeks or otherwise complains. What I didn't measure and should have, is the diff centre to a point on the wheel hub assembly to rule out issues from the diff out, that'd also imply that the problem is from the wheel hub out maybe, say stub axle or something. Ideas still appreciated guys.

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I haven't but this was evident before the wheels went on, the larger wheels make it easier to spot though. I think we can safely assume the car is not right/has been in an accident, I'm more interested in expert thoughts on how best to rectify it. If necessary I have access to a rack. Edit: Just thought, there's no reason one of these wheels isn't the wrong offset, I'll check and I'll swap them over to rule that out. For now let's assume they are fine.

Not sure, but I do know it was involved in a light front ender, there's a small crease near the headlight but we straightened it out no worries. This to me looks like drift damage almost, as in hit gutter and push rear end across but I'm no expert.

Hey guys, I've got an unusual problem here, my driver side rear wheel sits out from the guard and my passenger side rear sits inside where I think it should be, iof not a little too far inside the guard. This wasn't an issue before as there was a heap of negative camber (as a result of lowering the car) but that's not the problem and has been countered out by Whiteline Adjustable camber kits. This is definitly not a camber issue, of that I'm pretty sure. It almost looks as if the entire rear end has been pushed across 20mm or so. I've attached pics to illustrate... SydkeyKid... suspensions specialist please give me some ideas as to wtf is going on. For reference, I have access to most tools and workshops. Going out of my mind! Cheers Problem Side Seemingly Normal-ish Side

Not sure if this is the same but my 33 had a problem where it simple wouldn't start when hot, it turned out to be a bad earth to the Cam Angle Sensor, fixed it no worries. Just something to consider

I'm a bit concerned as I feel like I have lost power and acceleration since installing this, I'm hopinh it's not a result of wear caused by my fanging it around the past 3 days testing this controller and just generally having some fun. I'm going to put the hose and T piece back in and see if it makes a difference before I worry too much as the car is not blowing any smoke and is not making any weird noises, just doesn't feel as strong - that's even when i ran it on 9psi a few times. I should prolly try blocking those solenoid hoses first too. Dezz: Just for the sake of it, reset your ECU?

Dezz, that's McOdd... we had a half similar issue with a mates car that wouldn't respond to the low boost solenoid bypass mod but this boost tap fixed it. Weird that yours is still acting dual stage. Sure there's not another controller present somewhere else? A lot of cars coming out to Aus are not 'entirely' returned to stock when they are put through compliance. The mate in question found he has a high flowed turbo and a chipped ECU 0_0 Bastard!

Just look at the pic above in my post, it shows fairly clearly where it's at.