No Crust Racing

Dezz have you taken the solenoid out of the loop entirely, tried disconnecting the plug and taking off the hoses (block the holes)? I'm going to try that tonight hopefully and see how it feels. It just felt so much sharper in response and power last time I booted it, could be shit fuel for all I know too. Could be severe engine/turbo wear !! Who knows.. will try blocking off the hoses and see how we go.

I've fitted mine and have had a play running 7, 8 and 9psi (stock apart from cat back, POD and cold air box) I disconnected the lower hose on the solenoid (the one that is connected to the T-Piece on the hose from the cooler piping to the actuator) and did not block the hose at the solenoid. Will this cause any issues as while I think the it spools faster, if anything it feels like it's making less power but it could also be the full tank of fuel it has compared to when i last gave it a fang and it was almost empty (but had a mate in the car???) both times were cold nights. I'm wondering if having the bottom hose unblocked is allowing air in/out. I've also done the low boost solenoid bypass. I've attached some pics to show what I mean. I also note my idle has jumped say 100rpm, like it would do if the hose to the boost guage split (which it has done before) so I assume there is air getting in/out somewhere it shouldn't be.

I thought the wastegate setup on a 32 was set at 10psi which is why R33 owners will by R32 actuators for a simple 10psi? Someone feel free to correct me here as I don't own a 32.

Steve: 98RON should be safe for a standard tune engine, of course you might run into issues with higher levels of boost(Everyone I know is still using 98 on cars with up to one bar boost). For a basic bolt on type car without too much additional boost, 98 should be fine so long as you're not trying to run up a hill in 4th gear at full boost on a hot day without a FMIC and heaps of advanced timing

Received Cat Back today, sounds fantastic and was in great condition. Free Bump

I'm using Standard 98 Octane Shell Optimax, purely for the 4 cent's per litre off equation I'd be more than willing to switch if someone could actually 'prove' that something else in the standard 98 octane family is better. We don't have Optimax Extreme here that I'm aware of =\ Edit: Just did a quick search on the Shell site, nearest Optimax Extreme outlet is some 200k's away =\

So the cops had a pollution meter of sorts ON them and tested you on the spot! Geez that makes me think twice about doing this...

How did he test and how could you possibly pass with a gutted cat...

Well, Looks like all of my original questions have been answered so thanks for all who posted. I think I'll pass on doing this given the balance of the pro's/con's equation. Not really keen on black build up on the rear bar nor do I want the unwanted attention that a flaming exhaust would bring. Environmentally, in all honesty this doesn't phase me, if I was that conscious of the environment I wouldn't drive a Turbo 6, I'd take public transport or drive some kind of rice burner 1.3L - 6L/100k's type car, but I do understand the point of that remark and appreciate the time taken to respond. The fines issue does concern me but I've never heard of someone being handed a 9-10k fine for an infringement, this is not to say that the fine does not exist. The worst I've seen/heard of was 2k for failing an emissions test and of the associates I have with modified cars, only two have ever had to take the car to be tested and they were highly modified examples, and obviously so. Once again, thanks all for the time taken to respond, I've not seen this topic before and did try searching for it before posting, as I think 'most' of us do Cheers

Pipe through sounds like a good idea.

Hmmm... straight through pipe might be the go too... hmm...

Woah, that's steep... How would they know though? I was under the impression that it would look stock from the outside and if you get told to go do an emissions check you'd just replace it with a stock one?

Surely a gutted stock cat would flow more than normal? $9000!! WTF lol

I've heard a fair bit of talk about hollowing out/punching out the CAT in the hope of gaining some power. Now to me this sounds highly illegal given emission laws but I'd think it'd be hard to tell if done right? Has anyone done this themselves, if so what process, did you open the cat or remove the insides through the holes, did you gain any power? What are the risks etc etc. Cheers

Yeah one on the right is a CAT symbol, my seat belt one is out bugger. One on the left is fuel and high beams is up top somerhwre I think. my AIR BAG light is out, bugger bugger =\ Anyone got a full set of working Lights? How hard is it to pull the cluster out and fix these?

Hey all, I've been in a few SII 33's other than mine and each of them have different globes on the dash cluster working - that is the warning lights to the left and right of the speedo and tacho. Can someone please post a pic showing me what they all are. Thanks Dan

I got an eye-full of the sedan version of a 1997 Galant VR4 on J-Spec and I must admit, I reckon it's a cool looking car, seems practical-ish too with the whole 4 doors thing. My question, does anyone here have one or know someone that has one. Are they a decent car? I read they make over 200kw's stock and are 4WD but what's the weight like? Do they mod up OK are they hard to get parts for, do they use the evo engine etc etc etc. I currently have a 96 Series II 33 (as Seen in my avatar ) so would be comparing to that. Cheers Dan

Well it's called a Nismo bar at most places, UAS and JustJap have'em =)

OK, well the bar he originally posted is the one I have posted and is listed as a Nismo front bar, I've also seen it listed as a 400R front bar which I know is incorrect. Up to the guy to decide what he wants, he can get the one he posted from Just Jap as I mentioned. =)

Standard Just Jap Nismo Bar? I'm after one of these too but just gotta save some $$ =)

I was under the impression that the consensus seemed to be don't go Redline if your box is new/rebuilt but go for it if the Synchro's are a bit older or a little tired =) I'm still yet to have any problems with it and the box is still noticeably smoother than it was and also eliminated grabbing under WOT through 2nd -> 3rd and 3rd -> 4th. I still need a new clutch and I'm hoping that will be the end of any grabbing through changes all together (as it will still do it occassionally through 4th -> 5th at high RPM. Cheers

I installed mine today in a mates car for testing and at first it just boosted full pelt until we closed the throttle, pulled it apart and found the spring was jammed inside it, used a long thin piece of metal to un-jam it. got it working very easily after that, recommend this to anyone as a good cheap boost controller but be aware that the adjustments are very tiny Cheers

Noticed the iages are not up, both sold?

Forgive me for being a bit daft but would this fit an R33 with perhaps minimal modification?

Well good luck and try not to get it on the interior, it STINKS!