No Crust Racing

Actually.. A picture I grabbed from another post on this forum shows that at low speeds HICAS does nothing at all... It's Honda's and so forth that use 4 wheel steer for parking duties (because the owners can't drive). Heck was surprised how easy it was to reverse park my 33 and that's with a GTR wing, some people just gotz no skillz. Back to the HICAS.. I did recently check my pressures (as I do weekly) and they were fine... *shrug* While it keeps driving straight and no HICAS light I guess it's OK =\

Randy (we meet again, you are always full of useful info for me ) The drive to work this morning felt fine, gave it a bit of a push around some corners at mid to higher speeds and felt some stuff going on back there. I'm confident that you're right and that it's nothing, still nice to have someone else confirm it for me =) Cheers

So the pics I showed where there appears to be a screw missing and a black window for LED's doesn't meant anything?

If I recall correctly, the Nissan Manual explains that pressing down the reset button while chanting the fabled RB26DETT poem of power should make the car return to it's factory configuration in every conceivable way (So will be brand new again!) This is confirmed by the clock being reset to it's original time setting.... But if you get it wrong the car implodes and rips a hole in the fabric of space and time... or something... 0_o Make sure you press it really hard! If it doesn't go in at least 1 inch behind the dash, push it harder! If it breaks.. it needed replacing anyway... P.S. People attempting the above do so at their own risk =)

Sounds like he didn't remove the cover. He used boiling water and condensation to do the internal work for him. =) I might try this tirick on my rear driver side indicator that has a very small crack =(

Just in response to the parkers removal query if it wasn't solved, passenger side is easy access for aussie hands, driver side required me to loosen and move the fuse box, wiper fluid reservoir and the overflow bottle to get my hand in there 0_o. They may appeard hard to get at, but just pull back the rubber flaps covered them and twist 1/4quarter to get them out, remember not to touch the bulb surface =)

I've searched through 4 pages of results and not found what I'm after =\ I'd like to do a diag on my ECU as part of my upcoming maintenance and have read through this page, http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm After removing the kick panel and then the ECU to spin it around, I turned on the ignition and looked all around the ECU, no lights lit on the ECU anywhere. Tried turning off then back on again, nothing. The car runs fine apart from smelling a bit rich and obviously not getting great fuel economy ($50 gets 35L which gets 250 or so K's of complete town driving, it's a Series II 33, 5 SPD with POD and CAI) I've included some pics to show what I was looking at. Note the lack of a screw in that hole that’s next to where I think the LED's should be flashing? Can anyone post pics or comment on my ECU so I know if I'm missing a screw or doing something wrong. Cheers Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3

I've already made sweet love to the search button OK! On the way home this evening my car's steering seemed to get a reasonable amount lighter than per usual (Series II R33). I wiggled the steering wheel back and forth for a while and changed speeds (ranging from 40-110) still doing my little back and forth left right wiggle. It felt much lighter across the range of speeds completely whereas it used to feel like it was quite heavy over 100 (which felt nice). No HICAS light has come on (other than with the rest of the lights during the ignition sequence) and a quick look under the rear doesn't yield any clues (nothing leaking nothing obviously busted etc). Just wondering if anyone else has experience this before. I'm wondering if something is busted or if HICAS has just started working or what, or if I'm being overly sensitive. I'll of course monitor it over the next few days and see how it feels but just wondered if anyone has experienced this before. It doesn't help that I've got a set of 18's with much wider rubber on the way either they will stay off until I'm comfortable that all is well. Side note, 265's should fit on the rear right? Cheers P.S. Is there some form of HICAS diagnostic I can do without Consult?

Another mystery solved! Consequently, I had to remove the overflow bottle to change my parker bulb... Gotta love jap cars made for tiny jap hands =D

The black sealant on the inside is meant to be there =) I have a similar problem on my SII 33, due to a small crack in the indicator lens assembly. It seems quite common and if left un-resolved for long enough will eventually result in fading, mould, discolouration etc. It's a matter of personal opinion as to when you deal with it. I'll be leaving mine for a while yet *lazy* =)

Here Here! Though my performance aspirations for my GTST are nothing more than a reliable 180-190kw's or so as I don't wanna tune for higher than 10psi, purely to reduce the risk of component failure. Maybe I'm just overly safe =\

*nods* Fair enough =) I'm sure that information is valuable to those researching their options. It saddens me to see any car, let alone a GTR, being completely abused. I mean sure, enjoy your car but know the limits of your cars components!

That really means very little wihout knowing the condition of the car, it's service history, or why it died.... Not trying to incite violence or anything, just pointing out that perhaps more detail would be handy for the initial thread started. Cheers

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25 How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor? Also, in mode five, I only got two readings 31 and -30 (obviously a problem). Also, when I went back to step 2, the sensor check, and held the fan switch(like explained to get to calibration) all I got was 22, 25 and then -26. I could access Calibration when in mode 5 (pressing the defrost windscreen button). I wasn't sure how this worked as I could only move the temp from -3 through to +3. Wasn't sure what effect this would have. The air con itself works fine. My only real world problem is that when I move from 18 to 19 degrees it goes full blast heat. I imagine fixing these sensors will rectify that. Where do I start! Cheers

Actually, My boss told me that I can use our freight company (sometimes we ship large servers that weigh around 50-60kg's) and the freight company said that due to our contract with them etc it shouldn't be more than $40-$60 for the lot. *stoked* Cheers for all ya help. P.S TNT said they wouldn't do personal consignments =\

Stud pattern is the same for my GTS25T as I understand, it's offset that makes them unsuitable for my car, what is the offset? Oh and pics please =D

Will give them a call.

I've had a read through and that's helpful in letting me know what companies but I'm after specific wheel info. What company was used, did you pack the wheels in boxes or send them as is, how much did it cost, what kind of time span etc etc. All specific to wheels. Cheers

Hey all, Wanted to hear from anyone who has freighted wheels as I'm looking at buying some from Melb (I'm in Albury/Wodonga) and need to organise freight. Who did you go through, what costs, did you have to box them, was weight an issue etc etc. Cheers

Hey, I really appreciated you getting back to me so quickly today. As such, I've re-sized (from 700-800K to 150-250K) your images and uploaded them. Follow the links! Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 Cheers and good luck with the sale.

Off track but I in relation to the Toyota comment... I previously owned an 88 Celica, custom extractors, full exhaust, POD, CAI blah blah and it got hammered for every single one of its 65,000K's i did in it while I owned it (bought it at 120,000). Only ever replaced the CV joints as part of the scheduled maintenance, other than that... faultless =D Remember though that hammering is all a matter of perspective... as is the case with GTR's. For me, hammering the sillycar was WOT to around 5200RPM (went red at 6) you could feel the engine begin to strain excessively and was not making anymore power by that stage so there was no point revving it harder. I imagine GTR's are much the same, just because they have a stated redline of (umm crap what is it? like 8K or there abouts?) Doesn't mean you can do that all day every day. I've currently got a SII 33 (looking for a GTR perhaps... anyone selling!)and thought it goes red at 7, I never go harder than around 6200 as it seems to fall of the torque curve there (stock car aside from POD and CAI) I think sometimes driver feel for the engine capability is an important aspect of owning a performance car. Sometimes I wonder if the younger GTR owners out there lack this feel (ok ok so I'm only 23). They seem to basically just look at the guage or, even worse, only react when some monstrous shift light tells them the engine is screaming. No offense to younger drivers at all, this is only my opinion based on what I've seen of my younger brothers mates. Let's not forget... they're quite old now and generate a lot of heat in that engine bay.. Age, K's, Heat are all going to take their toll on the car. Yes they are a wonderful car (I want a 32!) But I think we do have to accept that as with any model of car, there will be good and bad ones and that even the good ones are still OLD. Just my 2 cents ^_^

pics plz, [email protected]

Email received and thanks. I'll pass, these aren't the design I'm after. Would you like me to post a few of them on the forum for you? P.S. Woops I deleted your email so if you want me to post them just send one or two pics back to my email. Cheers and good luck.

[email protected]

Why oh why do people persist in selling something without pics.. LoL Pics please....