No Crust Racing

The black sealant on the inside is meant to be there =) I have a similar problem on my SII 33, due to a small crack in the indicator lens assembly. It seems quite common and if left un-resolved for long enough will eventually result in fading, mould, discolouration etc. It's a matter of personal opinion as to when you deal with it. I'll be leaving mine for a while yet *lazy* =)

Here Here! Though my performance aspirations for my GTST are nothing more than a reliable 180-190kw's or so as I don't wanna tune for higher than 10psi, purely to reduce the risk of component failure. Maybe I'm just overly safe =\

*nods* Fair enough =) I'm sure that information is valuable to those researching their options. It saddens me to see any car, let alone a GTR, being completely abused. I mean sure, enjoy your car but know the limits of your cars components!

That really means very little wihout knowing the condition of the car, it's service history, or why it died.... Not trying to incite violence or anything, just pointing out that perhaps more detail would be handy for the initial thread started. Cheers

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25 How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor? Also, in mode five, I only got two readings 31 and -30 (obviously a problem). Also, when I went back to step 2, the sensor check, and held the fan switch(like explained to get to calibration) all I got was 22, 25 and then -26. I could access Calibration when in mode 5 (pressing the defrost windscreen button). I wasn't sure how this worked as I could only move the temp from -3 through to +3. Wasn't sure what effect this would have. The air con itself works fine. My only real world problem is that when I move from 18 to 19 degrees it goes full blast heat. I imagine fixing these sensors will rectify that. Where do I start! Cheers

Actually, My boss told me that I can use our freight company (sometimes we ship large servers that weigh around 50-60kg's) and the freight company said that due to our contract with them etc it shouldn't be more than $40-$60 for the lot. *stoked* Cheers for all ya help. P.S TNT said they wouldn't do personal consignments =\

Stud pattern is the same for my GTS25T as I understand, it's offset that makes them unsuitable for my car, what is the offset? Oh and pics please =D

Will give them a call.

I've had a read through and that's helpful in letting me know what companies but I'm after specific wheel info. What company was used, did you pack the wheels in boxes or send them as is, how much did it cost, what kind of time span etc etc. All specific to wheels. Cheers

Hey all, Wanted to hear from anyone who has freighted wheels as I'm looking at buying some from Melb (I'm in Albury/Wodonga) and need to organise freight. Who did you go through, what costs, did you have to box them, was weight an issue etc etc. Cheers

Hey, I really appreciated you getting back to me so quickly today. As such, I've re-sized (from 700-800K to 150-250K) your images and uploaded them. Follow the links! Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 Cheers and good luck with the sale.

Off track but I in relation to the Toyota comment... I previously owned an 88 Celica, custom extractors, full exhaust, POD, CAI blah blah and it got hammered for every single one of its 65,000K's i did in it while I owned it (bought it at 120,000). Only ever replaced the CV joints as part of the scheduled maintenance, other than that... faultless =D Remember though that hammering is all a matter of perspective... as is the case with GTR's. For me, hammering the sillycar was WOT to around 5200RPM (went red at 6) you could feel the engine begin to strain excessively and was not making anymore power by that stage so there was no point revving it harder. I imagine GTR's are much the same, just because they have a stated redline of (umm crap what is it? like 8K or there abouts?) Doesn't mean you can do that all day every day. I've currently got a SII 33 (looking for a GTR perhaps... anyone selling!)and thought it goes red at 7, I never go harder than around 6200 as it seems to fall of the torque curve there (stock car aside from POD and CAI) I think sometimes driver feel for the engine capability is an important aspect of owning a performance car. Sometimes I wonder if the younger GTR owners out there lack this feel (ok ok so I'm only 23). They seem to basically just look at the guage or, even worse, only react when some monstrous shift light tells them the engine is screaming. No offense to younger drivers at all, this is only my opinion based on what I've seen of my younger brothers mates. Let's not forget... they're quite old now and generate a lot of heat in that engine bay.. Age, K's, Heat are all going to take their toll on the car. Yes they are a wonderful car (I want a 32!) But I think we do have to accept that as with any model of car, there will be good and bad ones and that even the good ones are still OLD. Just my 2 cents ^_^

pics plz, [email protected]

Email received and thanks. I'll pass, these aren't the design I'm after. Would you like me to post a few of them on the forum for you? P.S. Woops I deleted your email so if you want me to post them just send one or two pics back to my email. Cheers and good luck.

[email protected]

Why oh why do people persist in selling something without pics.. LoL Pics please....

So what would the effect be if they're colder?

I've got a basically stock Series II R33, only POD and CAI, would these be suitable? I'm due for my first service since I bought the car and will do plugs just for piece of mind. also, most people seem to say gap them at .85mm, yours are .9 is that a big deal? Cheers p.s. I'm not very well educated on the particulars of Turbo cars and spark plugs, previous car was NA FWD =D

I've got a basically stock Series II R33, only POD and CAI, would these be suitable? I'm due for my first service since I bought the car and will do plugs just for piece of mind. also, most people seem to say gap them at .85mm, yours are .9 is that a big deal? Cheers p.s. I'm not very well educated on the particulars of Turbo cars and spark plugs, previous car was NA FWD =D

These wheels are worth quite a few bucks more than what he's asking... I'd have taken them already if they'd fit my GTS25T... Free Bump =)

Sent you an email....

So the rears are a circular 6.5" shape? as the mesh is square/oval shaped... Just wanna be sure before I hit eBay up for some speakers =D

Ok I seemed to have fudged it somehow =D Was mashing buttons and BAM silence =D Case Closed Thanks for nothing you punks

*Slaps 4head* My bad for not reading the FAQ =\ The rears look to be a none circular design, (I thought 6.5" were a circular shape rather than the typical oval) I know I should just get out there and take the speakers out and look but it's too hot =D What are people putting in the rears?

Hey all, I've just got myself a head unit to replace the stock jap one (no more 90.0 FM limit!) and would like to replace the front and rear speakers (fronts are missing, rears have child restraint bolts through them) and wanted to confirm sizes. Looks to me that the rears are standard 6x9's and the fronts are standard 6's? Correct me if I'm wrong and let me know anything I should look out for when selecting speakers. P.S. I'm not a huge stereo person so these speakers will constitute my entire setup =) Lastly, I was told I'll need an antenna convertor for the head unit? Confirm/Deny?