No Crust Racing

PM Sent

How bout some suggestions from someone who has the same model =D I'm not sure exactley what you're trying to say BlackR33 other than you have a newer model and don't have the same problem... well that' great but it doesn't help me now does it =D heartbrkr: Thought of that, don't really wanna have to go that extreme, plus it could be one of those tiny sound making things on the PCB, as in not easily identifiable as a speaker, plus it could stop something else functioning =\ C'mon guys someone has gotta know!

Cheers, Yellow won't suit my red car but thanks!

Without a model/brand or pics you're gonna struggle.... So how bout providing one of the above =D Cheers

MY wires were red, blue, green, brown and black. Red = Power Black = Earth Blue and Green = Accessories and ON Browrn = handbrake sensor (car stalls if running on Timer and someone takes hand brake off) Greddy sent me an installation manual for the latest timer that worked for mine also, get it from the Greddy site. NOW BACK TO MY QUESTION! =D

Anyone?

pics of headunit?

Hey all, Installed this Greddy Timer today, pic below, and was wondering if there's anyone else out there who has it? I'm trying to work it out how to stop it playing the melody that happens on startup. I've worked out how to stop it beeping on each second it counts down but not at startup. I bought it second hand and don't have a manual =\ Cheers guys!

Easier if you just tell me the model and I can dig up all the info I need Cheers

Bump²

model? pics? play mp3's? CD-RW's?

Couldn't work out which car it was in the for sale section so show us the rims or email to [email protected] Cheers

Tried your theory, switched it from 18-19 and waited like a mofo and baby did it just keep on pouring out hot air =D So either the temp sensor is stuffed or the blend door controller is busted and doesn't have variation, just has full lock hot or cold. Can someone please get in the driver side footwell and change from 18-19 and watch the blend door motor, tell me if it goes full lock or not. Cheers

Hopefully this should explain what part I mean. Pic 1 With the wheel removed and fiddling with everything it was only the part shown that had free play, 1-2mm tops, and I can't get the wheel on there any tighter. As i understand it, the wheel provides most of the pressure to keep the hub and rotor assembly firmly in place. It's actually the holes in the hub that seem just that tiny bit too large for the studs and allows a shift when moving from a forward to reverse direction. Anyone got info on the rear wheel issue mentioned? Cheers Dan

Gah, no pics, LoL

Checked the pads, plenty of meat and definitely tight enough. The item shifting position is the hub that goes over the studs though the actual rotor itself was moveable (which as I understand is natural as it's the hub and front wheel that holds the rotor in place). It's the actual hub type cover that goes over the studs that has freeplay in it, the stud holes are slightly larger and allow 1-2mm of play when changing wheel rotation direction.

Anyone?

What I'm referring to looks like what a Commodore has on the dash to measure sunlight and turn on the headlights automatically. I'll have a look at what you're talking about, cheers for the info.

I've never removed it and am the first owner in Aus but who knows if it was done before. Where is it located and what is the sensor looking thing at the very left of vents on the top of the dash near the bottom of the windscreen?

Cool, cheers for the info. Is it hard to remove the lense, I haven't looked but I'd assume it's stuck on with an adhesive rather than screwed on, yeah?

Based on that I'd be thinking that the temp sensor would be shot then... as changing from 18 to 19 degrees should not induce full blast heat, lol. I'll test the theory on the way to work tomorrow by setting it at 19 for as long as I can bare the heat!

Hey all, got a SII R33 with some small issues =) Front left wheel makes a knock if I brake when reversing, only when reversing though. Took the wheel off and had a look and the hub that goes over the studs has the slightest amount of play in it, we're talking 1-2mm tops. From what I understand this should not be a major issue? If anyone has had this before, did you fix it, if so how and did it cause any problems? Rear left wheel hums over 60km/h, put it on a stand and drove it, still hummed so it's not a tyre. Took the wheel off, all looks normal so I imagine it's a dry/worn wheel bearing or one of the CV joint type looking things on the shafts. Anyone replaced any of this stuff before and can tell me what's involved or suggest what else it might be? Cheers!

The Apexi Power Intake that most people use, which is a POD with funnel in the top and is a dry filter, can be vacuumed and/or blown out with compressed air.

My 33's rear indicators look different colours, that is when viewed with the indicators not running, one has a slight orange tinge, as it should, and the other has a slightly dark tinge making the orange hard to see. Upon closer inspection it looks as though the right indicator has been taking on some moisture and is either dirty or developing a light mould/build up on the inside of the lens. Has anyone else had/got this and cleaned/fixed? Is it hard to remove the lens and clean it out? Cheers

I've got it on manual though, not auto. I woulda thought it only did that or something similar on auto?