No Crust Racing

Ok so properly fitting the bar removes the hardware associated with the HICAS system and just leaves the ECU behind (which requires a bulb removal on the dash and wont effect the speed sensitive power steering)?

Just to confirm, they are in Japan right? as the freight prices seem a bit much. Dezz: How much longer til she arrives mate? (You are the dude who pm'd me about my car right?)

Yeah I'll raise my hand on this issue. I'm not a fan of feeling the rear end behave independent of what I'm doing up front. Wasn't sure what the best way to go about all this was. Is the consensus that the bar is effect and cheap, (and requires a bulb removal in the dash) or are people finding the Tomei kit preferable? I’m not too fussed about weight as I’m not out to pull 10’s or anything. As I understand it, the price difference is something like $60 or so for the bar vs $200+ for the Tomei kit? Cheers

I'd just started looking into these and found items for $100 delivered so thought this was a good price. Upon looking at Nengun, I see it's a little over priced perhaps.

Yeah give us a look

I'm interested but admittedly have not measured my gearknob (Stock Series II R33 GTS25T) and will be emailing a mate of mine to see if he is keen too. Are these genuine?

And where abouts is this blend door located?

Hmm. the list of possibilities could be huge.. Simple things you can do are pop your head under the hood while idling, give the throttle a pull and try to hold a steady RPM and listen. See if you can hear any noticeable sucking noises when the car tries to build RPM's (not the turbo or air filter). The whole, no induction noise thing makes me think you've got a leak on the inlet side somewhere, such that when you put the throttle down it's drawing air from somewhere beyond your air filter. As such, this air is not measured and accounted for which throws out the whole A/F ratio which in turn effects power and drivability. I know this is very vague but start with simply things, check joins and bends on the inlet side of the equation and see what you find. I've only had my Skyline for bout 2mths so I'm no expert but the above is just basic Air/Fuel and Engine concepts. I'm sure some more people will post with far more useful troubleshooting tips =D Good luck and keep us posted.

Cheers mate, appreciate it. Hey is there a way to have email notification when someone updates a thread you are active in? Skylinesdownunder does it, tis very handy.

Mmm, who did you get to do it, contact details would be appreciated. Might have a word and see if it's a generic fix or if only he knows or something. Cheers

Yeah that's what I'd like to know, hopefully at 120 for 3.7L that'd be enough. As for speeds, I change at between 6k-6.5K when I'm giving it stick and the change from 2nd to 3rd occurs at around 90-100 depending on ambient temp, gradient of road etc etc etc. 3rd goes to about 140 or so I think but I'm watching the road closely by this point. My car is speed limited so you only just get to shift into 5th and it's @ 180. Of the few times I've done this it's on a few very quite back roads late at night by myself. so the question still remains... is 3.7L enough? Any1 know what prices the Motul and Castrol oils go for?

PM Sent =)

Nah, if I shift slower (IE allow revs to drop more) it doesn't crunch, which to me implied synchros. What kind of $$ are we talking for this redline oil? In addition, how does this oil solve crunching issues, I'm assuming it's a different viscosity to standard box oil? Cheers

Hey all, Just wondering if anyone else has the factory remote central locking in there skyline? (I've got a Series II) I'm having some issues with it, when I originally bought the car it only seemed to work when sitting in the car. I thought "No problem" just get a new battery for the remote. Prior to purchasing a new battery it stopped working all together and a new battery has not solved the issue. Thoughts would be appreciated, especially from anyone who has dealt with this before. For starters, where's the control unit and RF receiver? Cheers

Hey guys, I've got a Series II 33, 5 Spd, and when I change gears from 3rd->4th or 4th->5th the box crunches into gear. This does not occur when shifting down, either normal down shift or double clutch, and only occurs going up through the gears and when I am changing gears under full load/rev conditions. When driving the car around normally the only issue is that the change from 1st->2nd is notchy/clunky/grabby if you get my meaning. Now the first problem to me seems like a worn clutch that's slipping when the engine is at full revs or worn synchros. The second issue definitely seems like a synchro issue. Thoughts and ideas would be appreciated and if you happen to know the associated cost with your suggestion/idea/opinion, please include that info. Thanks!

Item: Matrox G400 Millenium Video Card Location:Albury/Wodonga Item Condition: Used, Working Reason for Selling: Not required Price and Payment Conditions: Best Offer, Direct Transfer Extra Info: Allows you to connect various Inputs and capture and work with the source in various ways. EG, Capture Composite Video and store on your PC. The unit is also a standard 2D/3D Video card utilising an AGP connection. Contact Details: Via this forum or on 0428 234 999 or dfewster@westnet.com.au Will also consider a trade for an R33 part, like a gearknob or pedals or something small and of that nature.

Have now purchased items from a local forum member. Thread can be closed, thanks.

Indicator stalk should have the separate switch for the driving lights and the Wiper stalk should have the separate switch for the rear wiper, will also consider swap for stalks without the above mentioned switches.

I was totally unaware of that, thanks. I'm after the ready made sheets as I don't wanna be messing about making stuff to make stuff so to speak. Rather just measure cut and assemble

Hey all, Just wondering of anyone knows where to get carbon fibre for air box construction. Made my previous Cars airbox (First ever by the way lol) from aluminium and added rubber edging to prevent any marking or scratching but wanted something a bit fancier and less prone to heat saturation than that this time around. I know it's out there somewhere just need to know where and how much! Thanks P.S. New to the turbo import scene, previous car was an NA Celica, just bought this... Series II Cheers For the curious... Old Heat Shield