No Crust Racing

^ Completely agree. My fuel system won't be anywhere near the Don Mega Spec stuff and my SR will make a fair chunk more power and be used in harsher conditions - and happily. No way would I attempt 300kW on a 6spd box either. A 5spd might barely hang on with really gentle shifts and soft torque ramping but realistically you need to budget for a Z32/RB25 or better yet CD009 (if you want manual).

I had those in my first GT-R, the Hypermax, I quite liked them. Keep some stock sway bars on hand for tuning the setup, you might find it's too stiff to put power down cleanly. Good to see some progress again. Nice work.

Ask the local dentist?

Nice. Wouldn't a local BOC or SupaGas fill it for you? If not then find the local performance workshop/engine reconditioners and see if they know? Any clips of you banging in to shit you dirty drifter?

Awesome, straight on the watchlist cheers

The pin/hinge and adjusting knob interest me, how have you got that setup and where'd you source the bits?

Oh man that's great!

Engine build has begun, seems my donor parts were in good condition so hunting around for a minimally damaged donor paid off. Head has been inspected/stripped and cleaned. Block has been inspected, squared, and is being measured for clearances. Soon to be CNC'd then bead blasted. Crank has been crack tested and journals all checked A-OK. Asked the builder for some pcitures of course. Jury still out on if I put the motor in this car or something else but no rush to decide, need shed up first I think. As per other thread, been looking at ZF HP8 conversions instead of Z32/CD009, ZF looks very cool for lots of reasons. Got given a MIG Welder, hundreds of dollars in accessories later it's ready to go lol. Should bel be fun to learn a new half skill. Dealing with the planning process with Council so I can commit to a new shed and finally get a hoist, hoping to have that done in this half of this year, but see what happens. As soon as you wanna go over 100sqm it triggers a huge amount of extra work in terms of bushfire planning and requirements, so may end up not going 10x12 and sticking with 9x11 to avoid all that. Will still have the old 6x12 so will be fine either way but bigger is always better

That's OK. I happen to be a club level, lower class, championship winning driver. So I've got the required skillz. I'm sure my limited laps at Winton will translate well to EC...

Maybe depends on the work? All I did was take out some of the guard lip, then re-seal the 2 skins and fit the flares. Given my weight it seems I could use a 295. Realistically though, chances of me making it to WTAC given the cost to run the event, is slim, I just don't want to rule it out completely as I think it would be a real experience.

(c) Alternative materials are permitted for front and rear flares. (d) Wheel arch modifications of OEM fenders to allow fitment of the control tyre are permitted. (e) OEM fenders must be of original material however flare extensions are permitted to cover the control tyre.

I thought you could cut guards to fit flares?

Need HQ purge video

Just wondering, why do people think Silvia's are not competitive in WTAC Clubsprint now? My engine builder was also talking about how Honda's have taken over and are favoured by the rules.

WTAC Tech confirms you can use ANY auto gearbox if the car came with an auto as an option. He used a TH400 as an example lol

The also addedd, the tuning suite for the GCU comes with the hardware included in that cost.

On the above, it's more cost effective for me to buy another Silvia with 5 stud, a RB/Z32 box, Evo/Brembo brakes, already wide enough for 10" rims, full cage, better e85 friendly fuel system all already done than it is to buy those things for my car and do the work to install them. I then have a complete running S13 to sell as well. I've done the numbers. Everything listed there are things I consider required to stand up to the new motor. I may still do that work to my car instead given I've had it for 9-10yrs so selling it seems odd, but financially it makes much more sense to buy a complete car or a car minus a motor.

Only that I can buy one "mostly done" more easily. That and some base level of chassis stiffness. I already have the S15 subframe.

Who said S13 I was planning on sourcing an s14/15 shell for the new engine. Also no plans to win lol just be there.

Having a good chat with HTG tonight. - They use factory torque convertor. - They have spun them happily up to 9k rpm, revs depends more on engine/flex plate balance. - They suggest only OEM oil and a transcooler I enough keep them happy. - Adapting a flex plate to the TC is apparently quite easy. - They can source and ship everything. - The GCU talks CAN bus and has been tested with Haltech all OK. - GCU is 975 euro, approx 1.6k AUD. See image re comments on up and down shift functions.

CT too expensive and more complicated to repair etc It's not a 5 second job, but the idea really has merit. The key is tuning which swapping to a Z32 or CD box doesn't have beyond some consideration to gearing. Plus it could rule me out from ever doing WTAC clubsprint, though I guess I could always remove it for that event 0_0. In the end though, I have no idea how realistic that even is. Thinking about reg's, if I wanted to do say a bathurst enduro or other types of racing around the place, would a box like that rule me out of most things?

Good thinking. I know there are drive by wire setups for SR so that shouldn't be "crazy".

Let's see what tyhe boxes costs locally and what WTAC have to say. I like the idea conceptually.

That stuff aside though, am I stupid in thinking that an Auto could be faster/smoother than the manual options I was looking at?