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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Oh you should also leave gudgeon pins with their pistons as a rule of thumb, Don't move those around.
  2. Given the are already so closely matched, do not touch them is my advise or you risk adding stress risers unnecessarily. That's incredibly close.
  3. "Id do an s13 or s15 - clean and good no aero, light, good suspension and brakes - for a 'do all events car' 500hp tops" Kinda my goal, but some light/basic aero and a touch more power "if" required, but built in so it's there just incase.
  4. Yes, $30 UV light from Jaycar has already helped me a number of times.
  5. I have one here that also got benched, I wanna cut it open and see what material got lodged inside, but that engine had spun like 5 bearings.
  6. Everyone tells me that the oil cooler is a disposable part on an engine that let go, almost impossible to clean them properly - but that was for an engine that had spun a bearing so it depends what let go means.
  7. Just on this, GR Toyota V6s engines (mostly 1GR and 2GR) have known issues with sludging (I have a 1GR in the Prado). For people running the Toyota oil (made by Castrol) it's not an issue because that oil is spec'd for both the petrol and diesel variant Prados so it's got a healthy dose of diesel detergents. My car has 160ks on it now and the pickup and VVTI screens are still mint but it's only ever had the Toyota oil in it and at $45-$48 a bottle from Toyota its on par with other 10-30w semi synthetics anyway. It's one of those things where it pays to stick with OEM or match the oil spec exactly to the book, which I think is only one Castrol oil anyway that's very hard to get.
  8. I am big fan of the ultrasonic cleaners, I got a 10L one to give me room for carbies etc, but you can just part fill it or put small things in jars with the cleaning solution and the rest with water.
  9. Bosch washer here, but only a year in. Samsung one prior went 10yrs and got gifted still working but getting tired. Asko dishwasher was in the house over 5yrs before we got here, we've been here 5 years since 0_0 Panasonic fridge scrapped in 5yrs and wasn't getting cold enough anymore, couldn't find the issue. Mitsubishi replaced it, been a year, hope it goes hard for long time.
  10. See what the total weight is for a given piston/rod assembly, including rings/pins/bearing shells, rod bolts. If you can just move parts around to get them all within 1g for a total assembly or so you are golden. If not, move them around such that the weight differences are minimal vs everything else, I.E don't put all your lightest things together on one piston/rod assembly as now you need to bring everything down. "Best" way is watch matching each component and adjusting as necessary, I only went as far as doing rods/pistons individually as the variance between ring sets/rod bolts/and shells was miniscule on a 3 decimal scale. Also using a rod weighing assembly so big and small end can be reviewed separately as there's more to it than just total weight. New forged rods will be basically spot on for this purpose, it'll only be the pistons that might need attention. Cast pistons usually vary a little, just depends on the batch, if you have to remove material you do it VERY gradually around the pin boss (where the gudgeon goes through) on the inside, do not touch the crown/skirts etc - lots of videos online. I'm waiting to see if a few 7k rpm trips blows a piston up from stress risers...
  11. That's awesome! My piston/rod assemblies were up to 8g out of balance, machine shop said 3g is nice for a street engine on stock components so I balanced them down to 1g because I'm an idiot who thought spending literally 10hrs on that was a good idea...
  12. I might have missed it but what was the answer the valve size question?
  13. Be careful with that type of ring compressor they are known to snap rings. Single size tapered ring compressor from someone like is a better option but obviously only suits one bore size. Go slow, lots of lube, just generally good advice..
  14. Yeah no windings logo/jap caption imports.
  15. That is not 25-28k with under 100ks on it... 2018 INFINITI Q50 S Premium Hybrid Auto (carsales.com.au)
  16. It all helps, the engine is the same so same water pump/thermostat housing issues i think.
  17. Because inflation. Unrelated but what should I replace Mondeo with? 2016-17 era Passat R Line - AWD/FWD, DSG, turbo 2L 200kw (will add tune), more modern safety tech/features, use less fuel, probably faster once tuned, but maybe more euro headaches/repairs/issues because turbo and euro? or 2014 era Lexus IS350 F Sport - RWD, 8 spd conventional auto, 2GR NA v6 bulletproof engine, use more fuel, but probably never need any repairs (I have a 1GR in my Prado and it's bulletproof), but less exciting to drive maybe, maybe slower? I will likely tune it too. Maybe bit wanker image (I have to go see IT business clients in whatever i am using for tmy school run car). Both will be 25-28k, with 70-90ks or so Thanks
  18. The price is only 1x M3 Competition.
  19. A lot of it is over stated I think, BUT, measure/check everything, again and again, and if something isn't right, find out why. You already seem to have a good handle on it and people around you, starting from a better point than me I think (didn't own a micrometer etc).
  20. And if the grub screws aren't perfectly sealed you run the risk of losing a bit of oil pressure... Have you scared you enough yet?
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