No Crust Racing

Are you me?

If you go that way, The engine in the S15 is worth more out of the car, trust me. Building 2 cars simultaneously is always going to be a tough gig. If you have to spread your time and money I would be inclined to tune the -7 setup, flex fuel, and leave as is with a comfortable 450rwhp or there abouts. If you want a bit more fun, sell the twin setup and just go a basic garret GTX single setup, they can be done quite cheaply with good results and not need anything else. Then you can just drive it and enjoy it, not worry about brakes/box/diff as they are all fine at that power. Finish the S15 and enjoy that, to be honest, given what the S15 will be capable of making, you are going to need a very decently powered GT-R to match the power to weight of the S15. I had the same issues when deciding to stick with S chassis or not, in the end, I can go much faster for less $$ in the Silvia and I wanted to buy a big property so that was the compromise (sell GT-R).

Just "Capital" "Venture capital" is when you're funding start-ups and doing things like Angel Investing etc, usually done by private equity firms but can be a single person in some instances. Maybe get some finance, buy Piggas car, put his running gear into your cleaner shell. Put your little 2.6 and stock box into his shell and sell it off to someone with lower standards then clear out the finance. Or just be happy for now with the baby 2.6 and maybe a small EFR detuned to make it safe? Call it a DON Mini build?

Mega builds cost mega bucks. Maybe ring around and see if any of the big workshops want to get involved and sponsor you. Being associated with big build GT-Rs is good for their business anyway. If that doesn't work out, just go mid spec on the little 2.6 for now and try not to race any fast cars. Don't forget, don't flog it with -7s on it if you're running high boost and when it comes time to tune the EFR, keep the torque low in the midrange until you've got some decent rods in it (same thing all the EVO guys do with their EFRs until they get around to building a good motor). Maybe it would be cheaper and easier to buy Piggaz car?

Well you can always stick with a 2.6 or 2.8 and just go for big revs to make up for the little bottom end? You will definitely need good rods and bolts for that, probably a billet girdle too so you can eliminate any risk of crank walk at high revs. Piggas car is a great street car, but it's not a DON mega build car that will destroy all, but he didn't build it to be that. If that's frightening at the moment, then maybe start with a DON "medium" build, get used to the power first and build a second engine for later. That way you can get away with a little 8474 and a standard gearbox until you're ready for a full DON mega build.

A DON mega build is going to be well over 500kw though, there's plenty of 500kw GT-Rs so to smash them hard you will really need much more and a 2.6 with stock rods just wont take it. Even PJs little SR powered S13 is making 1000hp and it's only a 4 cylinder. You can re-use your head on a 3L+ block, doesn't take much work to fit it. Don't bother with 2.8L, if you're already spending the coin to do it properly, might as well get as much capacity as you can to feed a monster turbo. The RIPS guys in NZ make some nice 3L strokers (3.2 and 3.4L) and sell them as a complete bottom end or long block, although if you're going DON spec you'd be best giving them a call and having them make you something custom. SPOOL make some stroker kits, but they're off the shelf kits so might be a bit basic for this build. I'm sure TRP would be happy to spec up a decent bottom end , You can also work with Maatouks or CRD, both of which are known for big HP drag spec GT-Rs and I'm sure they'd be happy to be involved in a mega build, neither of which are running a motor with a 2 in the start of its litre size. This year might be a bit soon given you will need an engine build to dominate, but maybe 2020 would be the go to take the completed car out and show everyone what a DON build is really capable of? http://motivedvd.com/motive/drag_battle_and_gt-r_challenge/

Well under what you will need for a DON mega build. Stock rods and more importantly the tiny stock rod bolts wont handle Wangan levels of power or revs. Big twin scroll turbo = big torque which will hurt the rod itself (bend/snap). Big revs, Wangan style, will stretch the little stock rod bolts and then all sorts of bad stuff happens. There is no magic number for when this will happen. Should be fine on -7s/-9s with your tide me over setup but people have run into issues even using dinosaur -5s so you will be well beyond that point even with basic medium size 8374 or something similar. For the turbo size/power you're going to need for a DON mega build, you really need a 3L at a minimum with good rods/rod bolts. Even in my little SR, I've gone Nitto I Beams and ARP CA625+ rod bolts and my power and rev goals are much lower than yours. That combination was under 2k landed, so nothing in the grand scheme of a mega build.

-7s wont last long at that power, if they actually make it without a dodgy dyno setup. That's well outside of the good efficiency islands for -7s and will over speed the compressor. You can look that info up yourself, a bit of simple math will show you the facts. Please keep in mind that if the comp wheels go, there's a genuine risk of ingesting ceramic dust/bits into the engine and lunching the bottom end. Should be OK for hits on the street, but best not to load the car up for long periods (say on a race track or hot lapping it at the drags). Some additional engine bay cooling can help too, the rear turbo is at the greatest risk. I assume that being an all out DON build, you will be removing the baby 2.6L with stock rods for something good anyway, but would be better if you can remove it in tact and get some good money for it for the proper engine.

You guys have been having fun lol Benny, I'm fairly convinced you're somewhere on the spectrum so I'm just going to keep that in mind moving forward and do my best to offer genuine advice where I can, what you do with it is up to you. Please try and keep in mind when replying to some of these comments, pretty much everyone here has had either a faster or more powerful car, a cleaner car, or has achieved more on track/drags etc than you have so far. The advice offered comes from ample real world experience and to date you have achieved nothing of merit so it would be in your best interest to try and take some of it on board. Best of luck with the build, I hope it goes well. Please be careful driving it, now and after power upgrades, it would be a shame to see the car written off or you hurt yourself.

How could I possible remember something I was told a handful of posts ago? #beenalongweek

Fair enough, whatever makes it more enjoyable for you. I like flames but...

*groan* I'm reached my pain threshold for the day, off to enjoy my evening with a few bevvies. When I get back I'm happy to talk about taking some bets on what gets Benny first. Catastrophic fire. Crash due to suspension pick up points rusting through or something similar. Engine failure due to stock rods. Crash due to shit driving. Have fun gents.

The idea is to fit them without hacking a big hole into the car. Quality work by TRPs work experience kid. Plus, who'd be crazy enough to line a nice sharp metal edge sitting to your fuel line? That's a pathetic job and you paid them for it.

Not knowing better is fine, but there's not reason to throw a hissy fit when people who do know try and share that knowledge. Many of us have been working on cars much longer than you, we've wrecked heaps of shit and learned from that. Yes plenty of people cut holes for intercooler pipes. That can be done very neatly and the hole can be lined for a nicer finish also and removes the risk of rubbing through. Any time a fuel line meets metal you either go big hole, line the edge or you go bulkhead fittings. Otherwise you will always have that risk of damage, plus a point for fire to move between two air spaces.

Legit question. Why? Also please come post some pics of your bulk head fuel fittings in Bakemonos thread, shits hilarious in there.

Benny, you cannot honestly say, hand on heart, that cutting through the floor pan, not even putting a pinch weld around the cut edge, is DON mega clean OCD spec. It's truely SAU DIY spec, I see they shit on drift cars owned by flat cap wearing energy drink consumers. Shit, even in my budget no f**ks given fuel system in the S13 I put some pinch weld around the hole in the spare wheel well. Just finish off the little 5%ers here and there and it will be great. If TRP are telling you that's their best, get a better workshop.

Shit, You're alive. Assumed you were either dead or had lost the car roll racing for slips..

See who's car cuts a fuel line on rusty sheet metal and spews fuel out first?

Benny it's because you keep calling it mint. We want it to be as mint as you think it is. Just needs a little clean up here and there. Neither of my "non mint" GTRs had that type of surface rust on the undercarriage. If TRP are so amazing why the hell are the cutting holes in places that bulk head fittings should be used? Shit, even Dose Pipes R33 GTST runs them. I like the direction, I like the car, but you gotta learn to not get so bent outta shape about people pointing out stuff that anyone with eye balls will notice of you want it to be the minty mint polar beer you want.

^ This

Part of any old car restoration. Treat and clean up rust, fresh paint when done. Always with before and after photos

I was talking about the pic that shows the holes coming through near the subframe but somehow thought that was an engine bay shot? WTF lol What's the plan for the surface rust underneath gonna clean/paint it all up? Would look amazing done. Are they actual bulk head fittings or was there just a hole cut through the sheet metal?

Powder coating FTW.

Fuel system and crank trigger bits look good, I also thought that looked like an angle grinder job lol What's up with all the filth and surface rust in your bay? Consider removing engine when you do the turbo swap and cleaning it all up. will lift the car a lot. Slideshow was severely lacking Benny, no dyno runs, no drive bys, no tacho hitting red line etc. Actually... no video content at all 0_0

Hah, you owe me/us nothing. Enjoy your car and anything you can share is always welcomed