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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    Yeah mine have done 4 days so far, 2 of which was in stinking hot summer and some portions are already down to the tread indicators and have been flat spotted from a brake balance issue I was chasing. I'm really not sure how much the splitter helps tbh, but it looks the part. The rear wing definitely helped me but I got the biggest gains from roll centre adjusters/rear subframe and diff swap. Basically just better geometry. Brendan is on the hankooks, what are they Z221 or something? Medium compound and still semis.
  2. No Crust Racing
    Yeah i haven't had the best customer service experiences there historically.
  3. No Crust Racing
    I had a look through the sets of pics that were shared and you didn't really feature mate. See below, that was all I could see on a quick glance. They are all on the AWDCC facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/awdcc/ Brendan isn't much of a regular here so I'll answer for him. He had breather/oil control issues which, at its worse, was causing the car to misfire/stop making power all together. He ran his PB for the day of a 33 in the shootout despite having no power coming into turn 3, you could hear it die then come back. He's got around 300rwkw, it's an RB25/30 with basic supporting mods. Interesting that our lap times are almost identical given the power difference but same tyres. I think there was a few hundredths in it at most? Are you on 255 AR1 also or have I got you mixed up? I don't have my RaceChrono phone here, but I can see you're a solid 20km/h faster down the main straight, and of course the other straights just not by as much, so I must be making up a little through each corner/under brakes. I think there's a high 36 in these tyres with some clear track and on a good run.
  4. No Crust Racing
    Do you have a preferred supplier for these bits? someone who has local stock in Aus, knows the game etc?
  5. No Crust Racing
    Good info thanks, was you it you recommending the Ceika stuff also? Is that all the same stuff under a new brand?
  6. No Crust Racing
    What do you think makes them the best option over something like Evo calipers and good rotor/pads? Is it just that the calipers are new? As I rebuild calipers when i put them in anyway. I would only be looking at the 330mm rotor anyway.
  7. No Crust Racing
    Will have a search, have heard mixed things about rotor quality, seal quality etc. Are people using them here with success? I do have a BM50 and Skyline master now, which people have run with Brembo's successfully, but gien it's a fluid change to swap calipers there's not a big drama about going to a BM57 if required. Why not the Evo Brembo's or is that more about it just being bolt on? Alpha Omega kit is for a 350mm rotor and if the cars at WTAC can't heatthem up that well I wont have a chance so I'd rather then 320 or 324mm rotors, less weight too. I didn't like AO adapters, they are different again and used for the 350mm Evo X rotor. Good point re meat to hole ratio. Slicks allow you to brake so much harder and as I want to look at longer events the ability to deal with more heat will be handy, plus if I do have the Brembo size setup it means I can just run basic DBA T3 rotors and not need really high end setup to handle the heat as they wont work as hard on my car. Power is another consideration as I'm building a motor so the car will hopefully be slowing down from higher speeds.
  8. No Crust Racing
    Possibly relevant for Skyline drivers but this is for a track Silvia. I often see Evo Brembo's much cheaper than GT-R Brembos but the Evo units, despite being a better caliper with larger pad area, require an adapter regardless of whether you use 320mm or 350mm Evo Rotors. Such as this: http://www.tf-works.com/tf-evo-8-9-brembo-brake-caliper-adapter-for-nissan-s13-s14-s15/ (This is for 320mm rotors) My concern is how the adapter will handle the heat from longer stints and the risk of pad knock back etc from flex in the mount. Car is getting a new motor and will end up on either big semis or slicks so will be moving along a bit. Not an issue to be worried about and time to enjoy some Evo calipers or better to stick with the direct fit R33 GT-R Brembo's for a bit more money, less pad area, but maybe less issues?
  9. No Crust Racing
    Quick bolt check on the car and continued stripping the donor SR and ordering parts. Got a couple extra pics from the last track day that I liked also. Swaybar end links still intact this time, did notice I had broken a brake line plastic clip (that holds it to the coil over) so cable tied that for now til I next do a fluid change (must remove lines to fix). Further testing with multi-gauge, no setting hold issue now, must have been the central locking I was stuff around with.
  10. No Crust Racing
    After 9yrs I lashed out and bought a rear strut brace, in blue to match the front one because that's important... Looking at getting some castor arm mount weld in brackets and grabbing a Gktech castor arm brace (the bolt in style) to mimic the nismo power brace "benefits" without the price tag. Next event is June 3rd, will do a bolt check this time after the few offs at Winton and making some more changes to the breather system to see if it helps.
  11. No Crust Racing
    How do you think that would go on an SR20 with a really good head and twin scroll manifold?
  12. No Crust Racing
    MCA usually spec their shocks with standard sway bars. Plus I think "ride" and performance are more to do with valving than spring rate alone. I sold the GTR but I still have my track Silvia and i took their advice on what to change with the setup, not even using their coil overs and the car is better so I have some faith in what they say. They did also provide the suspension for the WTAC winning S13...
  13. No Crust Racing
    Round 4 complete, was a mixed bag. Bad things GPS came loose, clearly that rubber mat is only good for low speed tracks. Camera mount came loose, but then didn't have another issue all day, tethered it just to be sure. Car is still puking oil out the breathers, so when I thought I'd fixed it, it was obviously just low enough in the sump to breath properly. Even considering the above the, I had oil surge on the faster corners/hard braking zones, which will only get worse with less oil in the sump. I thought the new gauge had onboard memory and might only need the battery wire for something like the ODO or clock, I was wrong and had to set it up quickly again when it came off the trailer. I leave the battery disconnected when the car is sitting so I'll have to wire it direct or accept it won't hold settings. I did test this but obviously not for long enough, or my stuffing around with the central locking and immobiliser caused it, more testing to do. Track was a bit busy for my liking and I had a hard time getting clean laps and a rhythm going which after over 2yrs away I really needed. Good things. Class win - 5 from 5 now, 3 in this season. PB, but was always going to be given the changes since the last visit. Managed 1:37.7 on the official timing, am confident there's a 1:36 in it with a few more laps at speed to get my eye in properly. No major damage from the offs I had/nothing blew up. Visor works well, though I did find when the sun comes in on a certain angle it bounces off the inside the of visor itself. Harness turned up for the second seat, it's current date so I'll swap mine out for it. I just need a passenger rail now, the seat came with side mounts and rails but setup fora Porsche. Should soon be pulling the trigger on my engine rebuild bits.
  14. No Crust Racing
    Glad to hear, looks like I got you by 5 hundredths, I'll take it Catch you next time and thanks for stopping by to say hey.
  15. No Crust Racing
    @admS15 Good work yesterday, you came second in class.
  16. No Crust Racing
    Don't use Tomei cams. The ramp rates on them are weak and is why you see so many people complain about lag afterwards. Talk to Kelford for Cams. If you have the head apart do guides (OEM/Supertech) stem seals (supertech) and give it a mild port while you're there. Dual springs and TI retainers not needed unless you pl[an on revving it much harder, simple spring upgrade and stock retainers will suffice, but Ti retainers will lighten the valve train and make it rev nicer, single spring is enough here and keeps total mass lower. Bigger valves aren't "needed" and will add some decent machining cost etc, but it will make the whole show more efficient. I'd say not needed for 8374 personally, but talk to Kelford and tell them your plans/full setup and work from there.
  17. No Crust Racing
    That's one
  18. No Crust Racing
    I should have clarified, this will be long course.
  19. No Crust Racing
    New passenger seat, GPT1. Wont get it in before Winton, but will get around to it.
  20. No Crust Racing
    Washed the car, tried to pressure wash underneath from the oil overflow last time, and took a very quick measurement of the front wheels and as I suspected there's a camber difference side to side so I;ll adjust that and hopefully will stop it pinching a tyre under brakes at Winton, which will be especially important given the speed differences. Worked through my existential crisis for the car, still going to build it up "decently" rather than buy something "already done". Spots available for the next round this weekend Get around it.
  21. No Crust Racing
    Still a few spots available for a blast around Winton next weekend in the crisp Autumn air, perfect for PBs! You don't need to be a club member, but you will need a valid CAMS/AASA and a car that will pass scrutinizing. Cars are split by class, prizes awarded for class winners, and there's plenty of track time for everyone. there's even a top 10 shoot out at the end of the day for the 10 fastest cars. Official timing is included in the cost, only $150 for the day! I might be a biased, as this is my local club, but it's a great bunch of drivers, a good range of cars, and always an awesome day out. I'll see you there Sign up: http://www.awdcc.com.au/?p=2134 Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/awdcc/
  22. No Crust Racing
    Appreciate the time and thoughtful responses. This thread has been good, Also had a chat with the missus, who tolerates and understands my little eccentricities. I think I'll keep developing this chassis. I want to do certain things my way and I already know all the ins and outs of this setup. It might cost a little more, but it will be done how I want it plus I'll get to try a few ideas I have that are best done during build phase.
  23. No Crust Racing
    Oh I can afford it, but I always try to be smart with my $$$ 15-20k for mods to this car or 15-20k for another car and sell this one. I just don't know what the right/best/smartest choice is. I get frustrated with myself just as much lol
  24. No Crust Racing
    I tend to just look at the cost effective options. I could buy a new big brake fit, but Brembo calipers and rotors from an Evo or GTR will be much cheaper and on a light car fairly effective. Gearbox can get away from you, tti would be nice but at 8-9k, the z32 box is a third of the cost.
  25. No Crust Racing
    To upgrade the box would be 5k for a gearset, z32 box swap is 3. Better calipers means 5 stud for the rotors I need to fit them. I get you though and that's part of the whole decision, how far to take this chassis vs cutting my loses.
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