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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    Good to know, that's one issue avoided hopefully.
  2. No Crust Racing
    Doing more reading of course and hearing some interesting things. Avoid cometic head gaskets? Consider wedges between bores in the cooling slits to avoid deformation (seems extreme for a mild build) Run a "modified" S15 pickup instead of S13, though mine appears the same as the one that Taarks sells as being the "updated" version. Avoid spool rods? S14 girdle instead, required line bore I'd guess. ??
  3. No Crust Racing
    Mazworks show very good gains from their intake manifold, the idea being that those supporting parts can help a smaller turbo reach the goal, like I did I my GT-R. Plus highport looks aids and puts all the hoses/sensors under the manifold in a shit spot. What do you suggest on valvetrain? As stated it will get springs and rocker arm stoppers with fresh lifters. When I say GTX I just mean Kinugawa variety, not sure if they are Gen2 or not, unless a second hand Gen 2 comes up. And if so, 67 or 71? Injector conversion is just a fuel rail isn't it? Radiator will be upgraded, I already have an oil cooler setup in the car with thermostat and relocator, I can just change the sandwich plate and keep using it - though I may go for a bigger core. I'm also looking at replacing factory bonnet with vented and it currently runs radiator air guide and factory clutch/fan setup which will stay as they work.
  4. No Crust Racing
    Depends on what needs replacing. It'll get stoppers, it'll get new lifters and better springs. I would've assumed the retainers were fine and the valves themselves have no impact on relaibility? Are you talking solid conversion? IF so I'll pass purely due to maintenance. Cams don't seem to need to be as aggressive on SRs to flow power, maybe because they have so much more lift compared to CA/RB26? Spool list 8.5 (stock I think?) 9.0 and 11.0:1 as options. As above Spool list 8.5 (stock I think?) 9.0 and 11.0:1 as options. 11:1 seems crazy. I'ms sure I could get something custom, but this is a mid tier build, so maybe 9:1 is the answer.
  5. No Crust Racing
    Going to get the current motor through this season to stay in my class and do a swap end of year, going from CA to SR, have already started dissembling the SR for a basic forged rebuild - this is not an all out no expense spared deal but "sensible" with some niceties . Dedicate track (grip) car so not after dyno queen performance. The goal is to have the headroom for 300-320rwkw on e85 and whatever it makes on 98. I realise this will mean a box swap as well. Car is highport/redtop so no VCT. Expecting bore to be 86 or 86.5mm. Plan was to base it off the Spool rebuild kit (CP pistons, not Ross) and add ARP main studs to that kit, plus new gaskets,hoses, fresh oem water/oil pump/timing kit/balancer, basic valve spring/cam upgrade and a mild port/cleanup etc etc. Things I'm unsure of. 8.5 or 9:1 compression? Higher = better spool for larger turbo, but more prone to knock or not an issue on e85 and just run less timing? How big to go with Cams, 256-264 range? Will stick with hydraulic lifters but will buy new ones and add rocker are stoppers, plus I don't bounce it off the limiter. Worth bothering with something like this intake manifold? Mazworks claim no lose of response with theirs, awaiting info on this cheaper version. https://otakugarage.com.au/product/otaku-garage-billet-intake-manifold-forward-facing-plenum-sr20det-s13-s14-s15-180sx-240sx/ Can either add wastegate port to stock manifold and give it a basic tidy up or hunt around for second hand 6boost etc if the cost is worth it. Can also ebay something like this - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Twin-Scroll-Turbo-Manifold-T3-SCHEDULE40-FOR-Silvia-240SX-S13-S14-S15-SR20DET/192490055785?hash=item2cd14d2869:g:0j0AAOSwnONZBEhW What turbo? Have looked at GTX3067, but I'm not convinced it will get to 300, it might with better intake manifold, gated, etc? Looked at GTX3071, EFR 6758/7163 (bonus of seemingly being able to make the power on IWG setup and does come in T25 config plus everyone ravs about the transient but very expensive. Kinugawa version GTX seems to be in the middle, new for 1400 or so, but then why not Hypergear etc? I ask here as Silvia forums is dead and asking on the Facebook groups is just painful having to deal with the morons.
  6. No Crust Racing
    @hyper-gear Your recommendation for fastest spooling 300rwkw capable turbo for an SR20 on e85 with all the usual supporting mods? undecided on cams or compression at this stage. considering options from stock manifold with ext gate welded on through to a "decent" stainless TS manifold but still open scroll turbo and gated. Comp will either be 8.5:1 or 9:1, I'll try and get some info about pros and cons, I know the higher comp will bring a bigger turbo on sooner. Considered things like GTX 3067/71 and EFR 6758/7163. Dedicated track car, response matters as does linear power.
  7. No Crust Racing
    AR1 update from me. I am progressively going faster and resetting my PB as the weather cools off, seems it was a bit unfair to buy the AR1 in summer and expect 2 secs straight up vs the old ones in cooler weather. They do wear faster than the RS-R I had and are very sensitive to pressures/heat soak. Seemingly preferring high pressures but at the same time needing to be cooled after a few hot laps with the higher pressures and camber. I've done 3 track days, only a few hundred k's and already they are on the tread indicators - but those first 2 days were in 35deg heat and one of those days i had busted rear sway bar end links and slide all over the place, torching the tyres in the process and still managed a small PB. I will either move to better semis next or look at what options I have in slicks for next season to coincide with an engine swap/power upgrade.
  8. No Crust Racing
    I bought the Bell GP3, added a nice visor and got the Hans Sport 3 in Large (sliding tetthers). Strongly suggest you try them on in store, i even took it home to test in car which led to a size change, from M to L in the Hans aand down one size in the helmet. Revolution Racegear shipped to my local Karting shop for me - very friendly and helpful guys. I tried the Bell on side by side with a Racelid Carbon and also the GP3 in Carbon, which is twice the price. The regular GP3 is much comfier than the Racelid and good bang for buck for a newer certified helmet. Carbon appears to weigh 150 to 200gms less. Tested on the weekend, all good.
  9. No Crust Racing
    Big weekend of Motorsport. Saturday was the Womans driver training day, my partner drove the battle Falcon - she had a blast. An off broke a cable tie on the brake duct, fixed that and good to know the other 2 connection points are enough to keep it in place. Shift knob and shifter really needs replacing. Knob came off as there's no thread on the shifter itself, will replace both. 3rd is stupid hard to find at speed, hopefully new shifter helps. Clutch might be dragging a touch, making it harder to engage gears, might just buy a new cable and do a fresh adjustment. Coolant leak confirmed fixed. Need to keep an eye on oil levels as it burns a little with sustained revs. Tyres are just so shit. Sunday was Round 2 of the sprint series. Played with tyre temps only, didn't touch camber. New PB of 57.8, was really stoked about this - Class Win. Actually got to go in the top 10 shoot out as the car was in 1 piece, set my PB in the shootout, only took a tenth off but not bad given you just get 1 warm up and 1 hot lap. Clearly more in the car given the track temps. Finished 5th in the shootout, .7s behind a Tarmac Evo 10 and a Track only Evo 8, pretty happy with that given they have more power and are on better tyres. New GPS is far more accurate, didn't see more than 1 tenth variance between my time and theirs, which was usually due to rounding of the hundredths column, eg my timer said 57.9 on the shootout, but came back as 57.8 officially. I had done a 57.88 earlier in the day, but it came back as 57.9 officially, also good to know the 57 wasn't a 1 off. New Helmet and Hans was good, took a little getting used to and works out easier to put them on as 1 piece, with the Hans already attached. Won't wear this at this track all the time, but I wanted to test it before Winton next month. Spare CA is sold, SR turns up tomorrow. Took a while but I managed to find one that required rebuild from low comp, not from spun bearing so hopefully reduce the amount of machine work required for crank/line boring etc etc. Round 3 is at Winton on May the 6th, haven't been back in years so I'm looking forward to it. Won't bother posting videos as the motorsport section appears to be mostly dead now so I'll just treat this as my build journal so I can go back and reference things.
  10. No Crust Racing
    Track day coming up this Sunday, Missus also booked to do a Women's driver day on the Saturday but she's been under the weather so we'll see if she makes it. In preparation, the Silvia got: Oil and filter change. Tyre rotation - they do not look healthy at all from all that sliding, fronts in particular are really bad. Not great wear for 2 track days but I haven't been kind to them. New GPS module - Dual XGPS160 - GPS and GLONASS, 10HZ. New phone mount to replace the broken one. New rear end links. Splitter straightened. Bought new Project Mu pads to match the rotors, but not fitting either as the current rotors are still above minimum thickness and no cracks, current pads have plenty left. Washed! XR6 Got: Race seats mounted: Bitch of a job as the seat belt clips are part of the factory seats and include the tensioner, so had to be retrofitted onto the new seats (no harnesses yet). The seat mounts on the floor are not even between the two sets of mounts on a given side and not even driver to passenger side so each piece is bespoke. Factory seat is also offset slightly so I corrected that. Tabs on the seats were all also uneven so that had to be corrected as well. Tensioner removed, both pulleys replaced, new belt - Now idles nice and quiet. This was such an easy job, which is a nice change. New thermostat housing gasket and sealant - no more weeping under idle at least, see how it goes on track. Also washed! I also bought one of these 10 in 1 guages and will fit it before next round hopefully - https://www.justraceparts.com.au/10in1-automotive-digital-oled-multi-gauge-display I will remove my other guages and feed my wideband into it as well. I am planning on using the 5v warning light output to trigger a relay on something like the water temp sensor so the nistune freaks out and rev limits when something trips an alarm. That way I'll have audible and visual alarms plus the ECU doing "something". Works out being a bit over $200 delivered and includes all sensors, I've only had a quick check over but it looks decent, though the screen is a tough small. In other news, I'm going to SR swap the car either after this season is finished, as it will change my class, or when the current motor lets go. Picture time.
  11. No Crust Racing
    This might explain the poor handling... Might have to make a bolt check part of my pre-race prep lol Grabbing some GKTech rear links today, have had good experience with their gear so far. Also banged up the splitter a little, I will check the mounts as the overall angle appears to have changed with the front edge now angled a little downwards.
  12. No Crust Racing
    Forgot about this ad, all R34 parts are gone. I think I still have the CA canister.
  13. No Crust Racing
    Round 1 done and dusted, was a hot hot day and it was hard trying to find good tyre pressures. I did manage a class win and a small and questionable PB according to RaceChrono, but it didn't match the official timing. A broken rear sway bar link end my day, though given how the car drove I suspect I did it early in the day and didn't realise til y rear brake duct came down. Enjoy some B Roll footage.
  14. No Crust Racing
    And just like that... She's gone. Falcon back in the shed now. Thinking I'll have a go at an engine build for the Silvia myself, pray for me.
  15. No Crust Racing
    With a heavy heart I can say the car is now sold, thread can be closed.
  16. No Crust Racing
    Was talking to a mate of mine who's a diesel mechanic, built 1000s of motors and he's confident I can do it so I might give it a go 0_0
  17. No Crust Racing
    I did, hence knowing it had been hot from being brown/whitish. I put a spare used copper in there and it made no difference.
  18. No Crust Racing
    Who's we? Are you a workshop or doing this at home? Why are you building so many engines 0_0
  19. No Crust Racing
    So, the mystery continues. Did a little reading, ran my multimeter across the injector, resistance is fine. Grabbed a 9v battery, tested it manually, it fires 0_0 Start the car, put screw driver to my ear, it is definitely pulsing but car still running like dicks. Decide to hold throttle open just a touch to let i run for a few mins, goes back to idling like a champ. I pulled the coil pack while the car was idling, and it zapped me well enough so the spark seems good enough, unless it's a failing plug but they are iridium and the and the only issue i can see on it is that it's been hot. I'll do an ECU diag next, wonder if it's got a bad IAT/Coolant Temp sensor so the timing//fueling when cold is off.
  20. No Crust Racing
    Replaced the coolant line last night, started pouring coolant in, could hear it leaking, found a split heater hose behind the head. Fixed that and got the car started, only running on 3 cylinders, number 1 not firing at all. It did miss at the last event, but came good so I assumed it was a fouled plug from a few cold starts. Swapped coil packs, plugs, checked voltage to looms, checked compression, all looks OK. Suspect a failed/clogged injector, will pulse it manually today/tonight and go from there. Have sourced another one so should be able to swap it out before round 1. Couldn't have just "worked" could it...
  21. No Crust Racing
    Unopened 300kw RB25 thread yes. I'm missing 2 cylinders and rings and bearings wouldn't do much for the leaking seals and 28yr old hoses my current original motor has. The goal was a freshen up + more power, both of which are easier to do with the engine out, if it's out, might as well put something nicer back in.
  22. No Crust Racing
    Timing is fine, as i did a full strip down and replacement of all the timing gear on the other motor when it was due for a belt. It's the bottom end stuff I'm not sure of, installing bearings, checking clearances etc.
  23. No Crust Racing
    Good to know.
  24. No Crust Racing
    I would have thought you'd have the block cleaned after machining?
  25. No Crust Racing
    Picked this up on the weekend for the track car, apparently approx 150ks and removed as a "runner", toying with the idea of attempting the rebuild myself - which I've never done but always really wanted to try. I've got a basic workshop, most tools, have done turbo/head/manfiold swaps and have over a decade experience with Nissan platforms etc etc so I have half an idea. Standard rods don't like going past 220 or so rwkw apparently and as my current motor is an original bottom end with some basic bolt ons I wanted something fresh anyway. Parts list will look something like this. Spool forged kit which has rods, bearings, pistons, rings, pins, metal head gasket etc. Headstuds New gaskets and hoses throughout. New oil and water pumps, timing belt, idler tensioner. Some tomei 256 cams I have sitting in a box brand new. Either new OEM or basic upgrade valve springs and some new lifters (lifters needed?) New balancer. Mild porting/port matching, nothing crazy, remove butterflies and possibly relocate injector ports. A GTX2860R I have sitting here which is new, could swap for 63 or 67? A little Tiual 38mm external gate. E85 Use my existing Nistune. Re-use existing oil cooler/intercooler/radiator fuel setup etc. I would want the basic bottom end balancing done, but once the initial weigh/measure/balance is done and you install the rotating assembly can you/should you then have it balanced as a short block? I've seen people do this with clutch attached also which seems odd, given the clutch could die tomorrow and be different. Same for the head, the guy I would have do some porting could likely do the valves/springs and clearances while he's there. leaving me cams/fit head to block which I'm OK with. With the 2860, I can't see it making more than 230-240rwkw, which is fine given I have no big plans for new gearsets or box swaps. 63 and 67 would go a little further but run the risk of hurting the box sooner - Box which is just a stocker with a nice clutch and fluid and no present issues. The alternative is I break the motor down, get all the parts, then deliver it all ready for assembly to my mechanic and collect assembled short block, an assembly head from the head guy, and do the final assembly and swap myself. I know it's not a "simple" task, but for those who have DIY'd a rebuild, would you do it again? What caught you out, anything else to throw in?
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