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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    This gives me a semi. What crank trigger kit? Ross? I dyno tested with and without butterflies and the additional torque down low with them is very handy.
  2. No Crust Racing
    A real CA user! Well, you were. Did you do any specific testing re the crank trigger to gauge actual gains? Have never heard that re the injector location, got a pic?
  3. No Crust Racing
    Big call!
  4. No Crust Racing
    Box is a good 4-5k investment for minimal lap time gain. I'm already busy on the trick as it is being a CA. My wallet and workload say build a CA, my desire for grunt says go bigger.
  5. No Crust Racing
    Tao have you done many ATR28SS15s with BB centres externally gated? Keen to know if externally gating one is worth the hassle and whether you feel the off boost response is that much better with the BB centre, any back to back testing?
  6. No Crust Racing
    I get what what you're saying but you know there's more to it than that. The CAs lower displacement and non square bore to stroke ratio means it makes less torque than the SR everywhere all else being equal. Of course you can pop in another few psi of boost to compensate, but you cant do Mucha about off boost situations, and yeah I get you when you say drive to the conditions/torque curve (keep revs above 3500 etc). Re the box, that was more an SR comment as the I've seen lots of them busted at 240-250rwkw, but admittedly they were drift cars and I'm more mechanically sympathetic unless race chrono tells me I'm up coming into the last sector If I did go SR, I'd probably sell this turbo for a 2863 or 67 as the extra response available from the extra cc's and variable cam mean you can get away with something a bit bigger without adding lag.
  7. No Crust Racing
    Been pondering this more and running some real numbers. I don't see the point in going through all the hassle of pulling the current engine just to do hoses/seals and turbo swap and put it back only to have it throw a hissy fit on the dyno/first track day from the extra power. For that labour, I might as well put something better in. I don't on an engine crane or stand so there's additional hassle in getting those anyway. I'm thinking I'm just going to repair the busted coolant line and run it as it and buy a second hand motor with low comp and do a budget build on the side while I keep flogging this one. I don't know if I'll have the time to get it out, worked on, tuned, back in before the first event starts next year and seat time is going to take priority. Also means I an do some other things I wanted like extra sump vents and the like. Whether that's a CA or SR remains to be seen, I would love the extra torque and response of a VCT SR, but that means new ECU, (though @Dose Pipe Sutututu tells me you can run an SR from a CA nistune and loom somehow?) other wiring issues, new cams are useless in that motor, current splitfires are no good to me so would need another set, need bellhousing, need different clutch etc etc A Basic forged CA might be the ticket, in terms of ease of install, not needing new cam gears/cams, sounds better, etc? The CA is the cheaper route, even in terms of spool rebuild kits the CA is the cheaper kit vs SR, but if we were putting this same GTX2860R on both engines, I imagine the result would be largely the same, so do I just go the cheaper route and stay loyal to the CA or do I spend a bit extra and have the more torquey and responsive setup then start blowing gearboxes? It's just so damn gutless torque wise currently.
  8. No Crust Racing
    Will be very old info, dont by any Tomei drop in rubbish. Go speak to Kelford/Camtech etc and talk about your setup and have them recommend you a cam.
  9. No Crust Racing
    If you want to do it on the cheap with minimal mods you can buy all second hand bits for a basic -9 upgrade but you will need to run reasonable boost to get to 450rwhp on 98. Other options are mild cams, say basic 260 tomei, but everyone complains about the drive ability afterwards as they have soft ramp rates or E85, which will get you there with less boost and lower EGTs. Fuel economy will suffer though, but you can always run a flex setup if it's a daily and run 98 for commuting and E85 for an extra 20kw for track days or whatever. You could also do a basic single conversion, not a kebab spec full twin scroll EFR setup, but just a basic new gen Garrett on a reasonable manifold, single gate. If you want to stick with twins, I'd recommend -9s. -5s are too laggy for the street without a few accompanying mods, -7s run out of puff too early. My 2 cents
  10. No Crust Racing
    Tuner mentioned similar, we put BC springs in. 80lb vs standard of 50 something?
  11. No Crust Racing
    I didn't do the actual work so can't comment on how difficult it was. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SP-Tools-Valve-Collet-Remover-And-Installer-Kit-SP66005-/292305739135?hash=item440ec79d7f Tuner used compressed air to keep valves in place while he did it.
  12. No Crust Racing
    Weird, but I'm pretty sure I saw a Levanta logo on it. Maybe they resold them before Quickjacks stood up locally?
  13. No Crust Racing
    I'm leaning more towards the Happ Half height. They have been great to deal with so far. Just working out where to put it in my shed to maximise height and usable floor space but also still working through how long we think we'll stay here.
  14. No Crust Racing
    I said I want to, didn't say I would, but if the car got smashed up badly or something, I'd do it as part of the repair. Plus I'd like to try my hand at it and what better car to f**k up than an old Silvia track care where looks mean SFA anyway. Postman was good to me while I was on holiday. Got a steal on all of this. Didn't need the adjustable gears but it was a package deal with the cams which are brand new in box and hard to get now, these are just 256 Poncam drop in. If anyone needs Adjustable gears, I have a brand spanking set of ISC ones here, though I don't think there's many CA users here. Rotors are near new project Mu in actual 4 stud 0_0 That's a $500 pair of rotors for $130. Thank you very much.
  15. No Crust Racing
    Lol Johnny are you gonna be ok? He likes how it drives on -5s!
  16. No Crust Racing
    Is it the latest one that has all the electrical issues? For the price difference, gotta say I'm making do just fine with the Terri (free work car). Though I was thinking about adding a trans cooler when I fit the brake controller for a pending camper purchase.
  17. No Crust Racing
    Wasn't it Cherokees that spectacularly failed the moose test, look it up, by blowing tyres and almost rolling...
  18. No Crust Racing
    He didn't say he wanted or needed anything he said the workshop suggested water Injection. Now if he says it's too laggy, well that's another story and Water Injection won't fix that. If he says he wants more power and that's all, he can get that with Water Injection or E85 - but should go 85! If he wants both, he should go a big dirty single
  19. No Crust Racing
    lol "car has been this way for 6yrs" and "car needs touch up tune" response "GO SINGLE" Or just get a touch up tune and keep driving it.
  20. No Crust Racing
    Herniated disc, damn you're paying attention lol To be fair I swapped the headgasket when I broke my leg #committment. Yeah I'm thinking 2, pull it out which makes the hoses/manifold swap 10x easier and just freshen up some basic things, bang back in and hope it survives the tune
  21. No Crust Racing
    It's mostly race tape and cable ties now That's partly my point, you don't get seat time if you rock up and it splits another f**king hose.
  22. No Crust Racing
    I looked into this a lot, but for my track car and am going E85 on that instead. My GTR is also flex. What do you want to know? You will get similar gains to E85, but if you don't want more power and cap it at 360 then all you will achieve is some lower EGTs. You gain very little if any response as it's generally added as you come on boost, where as E85 allows timing to be wound in sooner for more response - which you would want with -5s. You can of course spray the WMI sooner, use more of it of course. there are lots of good kits but you will want something with anti flow back, low level sensor AND trigger, not just a light actually stop the pump, an ECU that can adjust it's tune on the fly accordingly depending on if the system is working or not (or risk a dead piston) etc etc. By the time you do all that, build in failsafes, either buy pre-mix or mix your own water meth solution and carry the extra weight, you can see why E85 wins. Results are decent though, but note I am talking about WMI not just Water. Don't bother with just water, for all the effort you go through you might as well add the Meth and get some real gains. Water will help cool the charge and suppress some knock and that's about it.
  23. No Crust Racing
    Anything fits with enough time and money... I did like the idea of VQ37 and a nice low maintenance NA 220rwkw, but it 's not a cheap swap at all and you might as well do an LS instead and have greater power to tap into. 4 bangers keep me in a reasonable class and keep the weight balance happy. Turbo F20C?
  24. No Crust Racing
    Just something else to consider, and why I thought about finding a good used forged engine, car currently only makes 185-190rwkw and not much torque being a CA. The new turbo, cams, and e85 means I'm expecting somewhere between 220-240rwkw. Which will mean higher peak cylinder pressure and i was concerned the standard bottom may not love life - though I know e85 will keep the whole thing cooler and it will not be tuned on the ragged edge. Option 2 still looking like a good one, though I'll cry if it lets go on the dyno/first track day. I'll remove the radiator and have a good look in the bay and see what work i could possibly do without removing it, but I'm almost of the opinion that it would be faster to just remove it and do that turbo swap on the stand.
  25. No Crust Racing
    Probably not light, but I've never needed to go more than an hour down the road with it and the Silvia isn't too heavy. I will say, I had to limit my speed to 100 when I towed the GT-R as it got a little wiggle on above that regardless of where I put it.
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