No Crust Racing

Need a better pic with more light, but from what I can see it seems the turbo many have eaten something rather than hitting the housing? Grab the middle nut and give it a wiggle up and down side to side and in and out if it's not contacting the housing during any of that then it's probably fine. If it has eaten something then whatever damaged was going to occur has already happened. If the car is still driving properly and making boost the same way it did before then you probably got away with it. If there is damage to one of the blades then you might not want you go cranking heaps of boost into it.

600 sounds like an arbitrary number you pulled out of nowhere? Go for some rides in cars of various power and get a feel. 600rwhp might be too much or not even close to enough. I get where you're coming from, but you can't really make a call until you experience some of this stuff first hand.

This might be one of my favourite updates on SAU in ages.

I would almost be inclined to say 330-350rwkw minimum, ideally 400, but I think we just keep getting used to whatever power we have. These are heavy cars with poor off boost torque. Either way, stock is not much fun.

Oh and from what it looks like, your 34 is fairly stock. A stock 35 will feel like an exotic supercar in comparison. Lots of people will tell you that a GT-R really needs a bit of extra grunt from stock to feel half decent - The 35 has that from factory, a 34 will need a few basic bits to wake it up.

I can wade in on this. I own a 34R, I test drove one of the very first JDM R35 imports into Aus in 2008/09 (happy to dig up the article from the website I wrote for if needed as proof) and recently test drove a basic bolt on MY11 back to back with an M4. Go and drive it and I think you will be very surprised, possibly disappointed in some respects. To give you some idea of perspective, my 34 is a basic bolt on car with 380rwkw with some mild suspension and brake upgrades. Things you might like about the 35. Torque that starts low and doesn't really stop (the MY11 was a 400rwkw but it felt substantially faster than mine, partly torque partly the DSG. The GR6 DCT shifts faster than you ever will in a manual, so if you want outright speed you cannot beat it in a 34 with a stock Getrag. The interior is a bit nicer. The 34 is basically a tarted up GT-T from the 90s, the 35 feels more like its price tag vs a 34 - though I didn't like the seat at all. Cruise control/modern features: If you want to GT drive your skyline, cruise is nice. The features/electrics are just better in the 35 given the age gap. Tougher bottom end: The VR38 will make more power for longer given adequate cooling (don't forget the trans cooling). RBs are known for weak oil pumps, oil control issues etc Things you might not like. Drivetrain really doesn't feel that refined: It still has the AWD clunks and shunts, even in the newer models that's just the nature of the beast. It does not feel like an upgrade in refinement on my 34 with a twin plate at all. I was really shocked. DCT woes: Worse in earlier models, but a risk in any, the DCT is expensive to fix and not everyone can or should play with it, earlier models benefit from circlip and cap upgrades, there's a known Bell Housing issue also. Fluid is a little pricey and there's 10L of it but those basic upgrades are actually not that expensive or difficult to do (youtube it). One of the cars greatest weapons is also potentially one of its biggest issues. Doesn't sound as good (subjective). Heavy bitch that eats rotors, plan on replacing them with good AP J hooks and get used to expensive tyres (run flats). Interior is still classic Nissan in terms of plastics, leather isn't high quality on the seats etc. Less options for aftermarket support (mechanics with the skills to modify and repair it, though you'll be fine in any capital city). My conclusion was the M4 was a much better all round package as a nice weekender but as it's a depreciating platform, vs the 34 that's at least sitting stable for now, I sat on it. I would move to a 35 that was modded, think MY11 on wards with 600rwhp+ but not worth bothering to get into an 09/10 especially if it's stock. Go and drive one.

How do they stack up price wise to the NT01s you were comparing them too? They're more expensive than my old RS-Rs, but not by much and are wider and I'm thinking better grip based on what you're reporting.

"Jacques". That explains so much lol That tyre squeal, where they still gripping at that point or was it under steering from the moment you hear the squeal. I ask as some tyres are just noisy but still hold on. I forgot what good response looks like lol

I think a lot of people throw parts in without testing or understanding what the bottlenecks are so you might find that a good turbo/head combo is worth more than displacement as the bottle neck is the head flow at this power. Not saying capacity won't help, but might not show its true potential til later in the power game. Tao was schooling me on the CA as I had some ideas and he basically told me flat, do nothing else until you put cams in it as that's what stops them breathing beyond what a T28 is capable of. Pays to listen to experts, sometimes. Fantastic result dude

Ultimate? It has 4 gears too many bro!

Just buy some -9s and call it a day or spend what you would have on the conversion and do a nice little EFR 7670.

*cough* current M3 and M4 are twin turbo... But... a bigger motor and proper variable cams. Things a GTR should have had in the 34

That's just rediculous lol I can't wait for you to drive it and report back Start a Kickstarter for a 1.45

A solid 600+rwhp with solid response will be such a drag mate =\

"old GTR"

Just race from traffic light to traffic light and you'll be fine, maybe? A mate of mine still gives me shit about chopping my old GT-R in his Bluebird when I had a busted AFM lol

I dont think you made a bad choice at all, i just came across a cheap turbo and couldn't say no.

Not yet! Did buy a turbo though... and have been tinkering on another project for the moment.

Just update that, as someone reacted to it. 380rwkw now, same lines, but removed pressure regulator in tank and upgraded to aeroflow fuel filter.

lol wtf Are you one of those dudes with a man bun who needs likes to feel good about yourself or something.

Best attitude to have for a project car. Avoids a lot of hurt feels.

Read the same thing on pressures, like high 30s to 40 0_0

How do they rate vs cost to the NT01s? I'm assuming NT01s are better than RSR, so will still be an upgrade for me

Then remove it next track day coz it leaks and from all the cracks. Cast = win.

I don't like big flares and 255 is plenty. The issue is less vband and more T3 manifold. I can run an adapter I guess but didn't want to change manifold just for this turbo when I wanna have it cut up for a ext gate flange anyway.