No Crust Racing

12 it is. Thoguh my auto elec mate got up me for using "awg" apparently that's yank spec and I should be talking metric instead 0_0

Direct feed from battery in boot (GTR) so short runs from batter to relay, then short run from relay to pump.

I'm not elec savvy enough to know what happens. D Does it cause more resistance in the circuit and stop it drawing the amps it needs or does it just burn through the wiring (but not stop the pump flowing hard). Either way I'll replace it.

Convo with a another tuner shed some more light on ping issue. Shared that with Silvia tuner, see what he says. In chasing an issue on the GT-R It appears I may have used the wrong guage wire for the fuel pumps as the wire is max 15amps and it seems a lot of Walbro's pull up into the 20s when under load. Given the tuner said he say fuel pressure fluctuation, i will re-do it just to be sure. A few pics that popped up from the track day, no action shots

BC told me no don't do it. What makes you say different than the manufacturer?

So, I think this may also be a problem also? While removing crap form the car to get into the tank again, I had a light bulb moment and checked the wiring I used for the pump vs the Walbro specs. The roll of wire was bought from Jaycar when questioned what I'd need for a fuel pump etc. As you can see on the specs @ 13.5volts, this pump wants more than the 15amp rating of the wiring. I assume this would mean the pump is not able to draw the current it needs? or does it simply draw the current and slowly burn out the wiring? Walbor specs here: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-f90000267-fuel-pump-e85

I've got a pyrometer, but the battery was flat and I left it at home

I want to go quicker on the same rubber to prove that.. Roll centre adjusters Castor Rods Subframe swap Diff swap Swaybar swap Wasn't all for nothing. That's a lot of $$ and f**king around. I could swap in a bigger turbo, buy new tyres and go faster but it doesn't prove my backyard science about going faster through better suspension geometry.

Hoping the photographer there on the day got some action shots. We'll see.

Comp tested at 150-160 acros the board dead cold so that seems fine (172 is brand new and warm). Will re-work breather setup and head back to the dyno to work on ping issue. Plus the plugs look unhappy. Will also check turbo as it was a $100 second hand unit Downloaded a copy of my tune and sent to another tuner for review also.

Anythign would be an improvement Considered this, as the outside edge of the fronts has taken a beating which made me think it was rolling over too much as it was. Or is that just sidewall flex, not sure.

Yep, 8kg front, 6kg rear. I looked into changing springs themselves but was advised not to do so because they are valved for those springs rates at factory. I could maybe get away with 7/5 but at what risk to the shock itself? Rusty? Get out In terms of relative pace, There was 4tenths separating the top 3 cars in that class (Up to 4L/Road tyres). I beat an S15 with a 2871 on it and 315 rubber on the rear, so I think I was going "ok". Second place was an e30 who I pipped by 2 tenths for the win. No on road ability required, pure track car. Can't hurt ot try stock front bar as I still have it there and it's compatible with the new end links I bought. The helical diff WAS the upgrade from the standard VLSD, this is a budget race car so there will be no $1000 diff centre in this $5000 car. S15 diff was 50 and is solved my internal wheel flaring up. Will make some more drastioc changes to tyre pressure and camber and see what that results in. Will use these tyres up before buying new ones. I have an identical set of rims with the same staggered widths/offset but I don't want to go slicks as I'm 4 stud and would need like 18x10 rims to get the cheap slicks everyone else is running. Rear swaybar is stock s14 and the car is much happier with that versus the R32 GTR bar it had in it. Rear is nicely planted now. I'm happy with cheaper road tyres, so my thought was 255 RS-RR. Wider and newer/better compound. 255 is a stretch on a silvia clearance wise so it would be a little work just to get those under it. That was if I could get my other 9" rims from the second set onto the front (as the offset/disc type is not ideal, but I have the Gktech spacer kit so I have options). Otherwise I considered 235 Semis.

#nostories

She's already on max soft, but they are only BCs BRs

He's been fine to me in my chats with him. You get out and you put in though... #muchsalt

I was just clearing my throat as I wait patiently... At least it's friendlier in here than over in the Jem R34 thread. Some of you are salty AF and you wonder why nobody wants to share shit on here lol

*cough*

WTF, Jase I didn't realise this was AWD 0_0 Will chat with you when I see you next.

Thanks for trying to get me killed

Toe in at the front will not help the car turn in, I'm pretty sure it's the opposite. Toe out = better turn in. Rear bar is not adjustable, and having a higher rate bar in the rear made it want to drift everywhere. I know sway bars are about weight transfer but I think the spring rates might be too high to allow this to work properly. Tyre pressures were definitely overlooked. Maybe change to stock front bar and adjust pressures and try again.

I might just do the Swaybar first as the old tyres still have a few track days left in them. then the question is, 255 RS-RR (so cheap!) or stay with 235 but go proper semis.

Swaybar is already full soft. MCA suggests stock swaybar is best for grip (but also want me to buy their coilovers and suggested lower spring rates better suit the car). The car feels more controllable and progressive on the limit of tyre grip than it did before. It didn't take long to get used to it and given how slow it corners/accelerates is not hard to reach max potential of whatever the limiting factor is. Can try going back to stock swaybar easily enough. As for just driving it again, doesn't look that appealing given it's understeer city and once it starts sliding like that it cooks the front tyres and they are gone for grip. I did realise that 21-22 might be way too soft, I keep forgetting these are a road tyre and Federal states mid 30s hot, which is what it had last time, but still no faster.

Forgot to add, 8" front rim, 9" rear. Could the issue be sidewall flex on the 8s? I was considering going 9" front rims and 255's all round.

Made changes, didn't go any faster. Track related. Same Coilovers and tyres both times BC BR (8kg/6kg) and Federal RS-R 235s all round (4-5yrs old easily). Ran basically the exact same lap time give or take a couple tenths. Tried different lines and camber settings etc. Car has been tuned on a different ECU but max power was roughly the same (190-195rwkw) and max speed on straight is almost identical as is corner exit speed onto the straight. Old setup: Front: Whiteline swaybar, -2.5 camber from strut tops, approx 1mm toe out each side. Rear: 32R swaybar, standard diff, -1.3 camber, approx 1mm toe in each side. New setup: Front: Whiteline swaybar, cusco castor rods on 8.5deg, -3 camber from strut tops/whiteline bolts (mainly bolts as can use strut tops for more or less now), approx 1mm toe out each side. Roll centre adjusters (25mm), high misalignment tie rod ends, solid engine and box mounts. 15mm bolt on spacers to match rear increase in track from subframe swap, solid steering coupling. Rear: s14 standard swaybar, s15 diff centre and solid bushes, s14 reinforced subframe and solid mounts (angled down at the front for better squat geometry), -1.3 camber, approx 1mm TOTAL toe in each side, aligner got it wrong and gave me .5 each side. Issues: Car felt more planted in the rear and more forgiving in general, and less bounce mid corner, but still wanted to understeer. Tried different camber settings in smallish increments and 1 small damper setting with basically no change in lap time. Pic of tyres below, after 5yrs, are they just cactus and have no more grip? Front runs out of grip before the rear. Too much swaybar? too stiff coilovers? Car was a handful under heavy brakes, locking 1 or both tyres and squirming everywhere. Camber has the most impact on this. Will check ride heights to check corner weighting isn't throwing it out, any other way to stop the lock ups? Tyre pressures were about 21-22psi hot (14deg ambient temp). Pads (TRW) seemed OK (R33 brakes all round), but not a fast track and I have brake ducts on all corners. Given I'm locking up, tyres seem to be the limit? Old laps. New laps. Fastest about lap 6-7. Need to skip in a few mins to lap 3 or so to see brake lock up on main straight. There were many worse examples of this. Pic of front tyres after a day on the new setup.

So, race day update. What a mixed bag. Only managed to basically run the same as my previous PB of a low 59s lap. Though I ran a lot more 59s and all of my other hot laps were 1m flat type deals. Disappointing given the changes. Had to make a number of adjustments to the steering wheel before it was finally "straightish". Cheated by doing this at the boss kit. Car felt breathless and like it had no balls at all, but checking old RaceChrono data showed max top speed on the straight as being basically identical? I forgot to check corner exit speed on the straight so will check to compare. I am either right, its down on power, but corner exit is faster, or I'm wrong and it's all in my head and I'm just used to more power now/the power and torque delivery is more linear and deceiving. Lap times were the same so not sure what to make of this. Car pushed bulk oil out the breathers and the oil cap. I was trying my crank case evac kit connected to the dipstick, which was working as shown by the smoke out the rear, but the oil air separator not doing enough as the smoke was a bit much (or old busted turbo?). I will comp test the motor and if it's still healthy will re-work the breather setup, reintroduce the PVC and intake vac sources and get some more connection points to the catch can. Car felt more planted in the rear and more forgiving in general, and less bounce mid corner, but still wanted to understeer. Tried different camber settings in smallish increments and 1 small damper setting with basically no change in lap time. Pic of tyres below, after 5yrs, are they just cactus and have no more grip? Front runs out of grip before the rear. Too much swaybar? too stiff coilovers? Car was a handful under heavy brakes, locking 1 or both tyres and squirming everywhere. Camber has the most impact on this. Will check ride heights to check corner weighting isn't throwing it out, any other way to stop the lock ups? Tyre pressures were about 21-22psi hot (14deg ambient temp). Pads (TRW) seemed OK, but not a fast track and I have brake ducts on all corners. Given I'm locking up, tyres seem to be the limit? Car pinged a little from mid to high rpm in 3rd and missed/hesitated a little in 3rd gear corners at times. Can't tell if electrical or fuel surge (car has surge tank). Tuner did note fuel pressure was changing with temp and it only seemed to miss/ping after a few laps. Not sure where to go on that one. Managed to somehow win my Class (up to 4L with road tyres - seems not having slicks/semis is what puts me here despite it being a race car) and got some random prizes. Had a laugh. Old mate in a Radical binned it in the top 10 shootout end of the day, sad I think I want the seat lower? But that means cutting out the floor pan =\ Had my first off, only minor, but shows I was having a go at least lol Tyres. Front right. Front left Busted Radical Random Prizes (Beanie, can of some anti static interior spray? Aeroflow catalogue and stickers, aeroflow pen, 2x little block up aeroflow bashing sticks, kids love'em). Old setup: Front: Whiteline swaybar, -2.5 camber from strut tops, approx 1mm toe out each side. Rear: 32R swaybar, standard diff, -1.3 camber, approx 1mm toe in each side. New setup: Front: Whiteline swaybar, castor rods on 8.5deg, -3 camber from strut tops/whiteline bolts (mainly bolts as can use strut tops for more or less now), approx 1mm toe out each side. Roll centre adjusters, high misalignment tie rod ends, solid engine and box mounts. 15mm bolt on spacers to match rear increase in track. Rear: s14 swaybar, s15 diff and solid bushes, s14 reinforced subframe and solid mounts (angled down at the front for better squat geometry), -1.3 camber, approx 1mm TOTAL toe in each side, aligner got it wrong and gave me .5 each side. Fastest lap is about lap 6-7 Bonus pic of an Evo's tyre who forgot to clip down his bonnet, smashed his windscreen, and was driving the wheels of it in general... Short clip of whoops.