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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Not after seeing GT-Rs "economy" on e85 and the fact I can't get it here. Annoying enough bringing back 80L at ta time for the GTR (which ate 140L at winton...) Silvia wouldn't be as bad, but still. That means injectors and a full retune on e85, or additional e-flex sensor then really should go to proper boost control etc etc.
  2. Given the max top speed was the same, I'd say so. Though I need my old phone to look at the Race Chrono data and see if the corner exit speed onto the straight is the same to be sure.
  3. Quick report from track day. Car felt gutless, no surge of torque when it comes on boost. Also a little bit pinging somewhere up in 3rd, was not logging so cannot tell. Had a few misses/hesitation when cornering (car has surge tank setup) though tuner did note fuel pressure was fluctuating quite a bit with temperature. Despite the car feeling gutless and less powerful than I remember it (a few years ago) the max top speed down the straight was identical and the lap time was within 1 tenth of the previous PB 0_0
  4. Picked the car up from the tuner and noticed the wheel was mad crooked. Turns out he misaligned the rack and column by one spline when fitting that solid bush. Got the car home and into the shed. Fixed that. Removed the master cylinder and made some adjustments to the booster rod, helped pedal travel but will need another adjustment tomorrow. Checked oil and noticed some milky frothy residue. Coolant all looked good, no oil, no bubbles. Praying the fresh headgasket was fine. Dropped oil, spilled it everywhere lol. Oil looked fine, tuner said it'll be from the car having actually done some work after sitting for ages (condensation). New filter and fresh oil for safety. Refitted splitter and cover over ecu. Loaded up car etc. Banged up splitter loading solo in my haste, woops. Fingers crossed for tomorrow. Car feels very different to me. See how the old hard RSRs hold up.
  5. "On the drive back to the office it occurred to me that factory resetting the SAFC may mean it's got the wrong AFM selected and is outputting the wrong voltage as that's still connected. " Was set to 07 in and 07 out (standard CA). Changed to 02 in and 02 out (Z32). Lucky I'm such a gun mechanic/problem solver of my own f**k ups... He'd have been there for ever.
  6. I did, and no signs of any issues as yet. I removed one stud at a time, and reinstalled the ARP stud then torque to Nissan spec and repeated until all studs were in place. I then went back over them all and torque to ARP spec. This way, the gasket never has more than 1 "weak" point and the torque differences between adjacent studs is always minimised. Original head gasket showed no signs of failing, this was just done as a preventative measure for upcoming power increase. One sachet of ARP fastener lube is enough to do the whole thing. USE IT.
  7. Even when plugging figures into calculators with known RPM, the output is not like either graph. All smoke and mirrors. Oh well, see how it goes Sunday and will just hope that a smoother graph means a better car to drive (yes i know graphs can be smoothed also).
  8. I have torque numbers from both dynos. They are very different (360Nm vs 550 or so). I know power is just a function of torque vs revs, but given these dynos do various corrections to get their numbers, I have no idea how to apply anything to either number to find something meaningful between them.
  9. Anyway of comparing torque figures from 2 different dynos? See attached images. Old graph (Dyno Dynamics), with higher power and lower torque was done 3-4yrs ago using SAFC and SITC. The only change, new graph on Mainlne, was a Nistune, so I could have some proper off boost/part throttle behaviour and smooth out that torque dip (through controlling the inlet butterflies properly). Is there any way to compare the very different torque readings wit the info at hand?
  10. So, results are in, 192rwkw and 550Nm at 16-17psi - Tuner said mainline almost always reads lower power than dyno dynamics, around 10% or so meaning he pegs this into the low 200s which is odd as the power is 6kw down, but the torque is much higher than previous tune (365Nm) Torque curve looks a lot smoother now too. cams not touched this time, and were previously set for max response. See how it drives and go from there Old graph first . VS New Graphs.
  11. Car is on the dyno, tuner making progress but ran into an odd fuel cut issue at 4800rpm. Noted that Nistune had launch control set for 4800, but didn't think this was enabled. He is going to talk to Nistune. On the drive back to the office it occurred to me that factory resetting the SAFC may mean it's got the wrong AFM selected and is outputting the wrong voltage as that's still connected. He's calling me back shortly and we'll check that over the phone. Sunday draws ever closer. Car no longer sounds like hektik drift pig anymore either.
  12. Define fussy? The shocks are just cheapo BCs which only have basic damper control (and are probs too firm at 8kg front 6kg rear). I have them set to max soft all round already.
  13. Scratch those seats, will just wait till a nice fixed back frp one comes up, after reading about reclining units​ snapping. Also, stop the press. I have a spot for this weekend's track day after some format changes allowed more entries. Tuner said he had done the exhaust and the steering column bush and was confident no issues getting the tune done. Awww yeah.
  14. Not looking good for getting a spot at the track day Was talking with the boys about a test and tune at Winton this month instead, before Winter settles in and it's too wet. There's also a Women's track day coming up on the 17th that my partner showed some interest in. I am looking at rails and passenger seat options to see if we can get a seating arrangement worked out for her as my eat is fully fixed. Forgot I had a solid steering spacer, dropped that off to the workshop this morning. I think GKtech should sponsor me. No update from tuner, but knew he was busy and was not expecting him to start it on Monday as he said. What would you preference be for a cheap passenger seat? This auction is for 2 seats, rails and some mounting brackets. Could sell second seat? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172686388923?_trksid=p2380057.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI172686388923.N36.S1.R1.TR4 Or can get this fake Bride for $150 (haven't negotiated yet) and it's local. Comes with drivers rail that I could sell/swap for a passenger one. I'm OK with red as my driver seat is a velo podium (version 1 so not as pretty as V2) in black and red. I've got a velo magnum 4pt harness for the dreiver side, will get something similar for passenger,
  15. Nice work. Also we have the same jack, because that's what ballers do.
  16. Everything is better with a partner. Twins for the win [emoji3] But seriously, as person with twins, go single. And as for cams, speak to kelford. There was some cheap L182B on Facebook yesterday...
  17. As someone with a lot of that garbage, I'm not sure you classify plugging shit in as wiring lol.
  18. Wtf is going on lol
  19. See how we go. Steering feels little dead in the centre which I think is those high tie rod ends moving in the ball joint before turning the hub. Hoping it feels magic track sidre but in reality so much has changed that I'm prepared to spend most of my time crusing around dialing things in.
  20. New is drug money because discontinued.
  21. 5-6k for a used getrag to hold say 600kw and do X lap time around Eastern Creek. 3k brand new for Evo 5spd to hold 3-400kw and do the same or better? Just saying Evo seems to scale really well bang for buck etc.
  22. So car aligned up all OK. steering wheel is straight now lol Basically ended up with the settings I mentioned above give or take a few .1 of a mm here and there. Didn't quite get to -1.5 rear camber, I reckon something is bent in the hub on one side as it just runs out of adjustment. My 33 was like that and ended up needing a new hub. -1.3 will do. He used those whiteline adjusters to give me the 3 deg I wanted up front, but at the same time taking some out of the strut top so I have some easy adjustment for more if needed and he mentioned there's good clearance now with the 15mm spacer, he said 4 was doable but cant see me needing it. I haven't checked but will see what the cars appetite for bigger rubber will be when I get it back. Ended up with 8.5 degrees front castor 0_0 that seems like a lot? I would have thought 6-7 would be enough, I heard it grab the left guard liner lightly when loading it, I bet it chews through it.. Track width looks even now with the spacers also. I rang the tuner on the off chance he had space in his workshop and he did so I just took it straight in instead of having to unload and reload to drop it down Monday (I don't own the trailer). So the car is now with him and he reckons he'll start looking at it Monday. See how he goes, he's flat out so I'm not expecting miracles plus he has the exhaust adjustments to make. The goal there is just to make the same 190-200rwkw but to smooth out that ugly torque curve and make the car more linear, maybe move the torque curve a little right so it's less aggressive onto boost. Nothing further from me for a few days, time to forget about cars.
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