No Crust Racing

Seems like the first step. Just shitful job to remove pump again. Brace out, back seat out to get to attessa ecu plugs, etc etc

R34 GTR Stock cams -> Kelford L182A Cams + BC Springs.

Tuner said clearances were 14 and 16 (thou). Kelford said cam specs are 10 and 12. So, pros and cons? Risk of damage?

Haven't removed to inspect yet. Did the same setup in the Silvia without issue. Have run direct feed to battery via relay, relay is trigger by standard fuel pump relay trigger. All with suitable gauge wiring.

Good to know. Seems others are making up to 450rwkw with these pumps and I found reference on here to that inline valve causing tuning issues for someone else before. Will start by removing that, might be a cheap fix yet

Looking at other threads on here, people saying these can support 450rwkw? Has been suggested that I remove this pressure valve and bump base fuel pressure to 3.5. Any issues with that? Would be great to not have to get into the tank again though..

RB26 loud valvetrain - Vid inside. Picked car up from tuner, now has BC springs and Kelford L182A cams. Valve train is noticeably noisier, can be heard in cabin. Tuner states he checked all clearances and "A few thou looser than before, but all within standard spec". He said he doesn't mind the clearances to be a little looser as a loose tappet is a happy tappet or something like that. I can have it reshimmed, but of course more time/money. Pros and cons of loose/tight clearances?

Replace 460LPH Walbro with? RB26, maxed out the 460LPH Walbro at around 500rwhp on e85. They are rated to about 600hp (assuming flywheel so seems about right). Want something in tank and looked at this: http://walbrofuelpumps.com/walbro-485lph-fuel-pump-high-pressure-tia485-2-f90000274-universal-e85-ethanol-ti-automotive.html Given the car has -9s and is almost done as far as turbos go, I only need enough to stop it leaning out and run a touch more boost. Does that pump really support another 150hp? Are there better in tank options available? Given I already have it in there, wiring would be direct swap over it looks like. Yes I have the pump direct fed from battery (with relay triggered by standard fuel pump wiring). Thanks all

Finally got some info for people playing along at home. Copy paste from build thread. Maxxed out fuel pump at 20psi. Last time we ran 24ish.Need new pump then will take it back to finish it off. What to buy for intank? Currently has brand new direct wire 460lph Walbro. Detuned for now for safety making same power as before on only 16psi.Slightly more responsive too, dialled for max response though and now with closed loop boost control. Power is better from the on boost onwards. Will get an overlay of new and old when I'm back there and it's finished but I've seen it myself. Will be good when finished off, but driving nicely at the moment. Sounds like a f**king diesel with the valvetrain noise. Tuner said all clearances on the looser side of within standard specification and he likes them there. Can shim tighter if I want. Pros cons? Dyno graph and vid of loud idle.

Finally got some info for people playing along at home. Copy paste from build thread. Maxxed out fuel pump at 20psi. Last time we ran 24ish.Need new pump then will take it back to finish it off. What to buy for intank? Currently has brand new direct wire 460lph Walbro. Detuned for now for safety making same power as before on only 16psi.Slightly more responsive too, dialled for max response though and now with closed loop boost control. Power is better from the on boost onwards. Will get an overlay of new and old when I'm back there and it's finished but I've seen it myself. Will be good when finished off, but driving nicely at the moment. Sounds like a f**king diesel with the valvetrain noise. Tuner said all clearances on the looser side of within standard specification and he likes them there. Can shim tighter if I want. Pros cons? Dyno graph and vid of loud idle.

Ahh, makes sense. Hope it's a smooth swap.

I feel you re parts availability. Thankfully the US still has a good Supra following so I can get my parts that way when the time comes. Good luck

Brand new 0_0 Big spender! Nice work, I know SFA about Evo's but even I've heard the 5spd is the stronger box. Could it potentially mean less gear changes and faster as a result with the wider ratios? Or does it work the other way?

Is the repair of the box something you can/want to attempt yourself? Or off to a shop?

I would say no, if the car has even track width side to side there should be no impact on HICAS, maybe the rack works a touch harder as the wheel has been moved further away from the axis of pivot. Get your rear alignment checked and inspect the HICAS tie rod ends for wear and play of you want to keep it in, otherwise, Lock it out but do it properly where you press the tie rod ends out.

Solid progress on what is a fun job given not all of us have hoists and cool gear to help

Battery confirmed dead, grabbed a new one. Will talk to Fab/tuner and book in.

Battery had a bad terminal, is stuffed fully now so in the bin it will go. Got my old one out and ran a recondition on it with the cTek so I could move it out of the shed, will have it tested by a battery place today and go from there. 2yrs worth of dust finally washed off. Even shined the tyres...

Least you'll have a bit more of a known quantity now, better sump too. June 4th is still do-able... get Russ to help. Actually no, he will have no free time for a while, ask Matt. I can help if you need more things stripped/broken

So, comedy of errors last night... My quick drive down the street and back ended up taking 90mins. Got car started, missing exhaust from front pipe back, load as f**k and interior vibrating like a mofo, can definitely feel the difference with those mounts and you may be right that they are too rough, but I'm not swapping them out now, see how it is with the exhaust finished as resonance played a big part in it. Might keep that second muffler in there lol Clutch feels light as, works, but feels light as. Brakes feel light as, they work, but again feel light and both pedals have a bit too much travel for my liking. Car is too loud to tell if diff is happy or not, but it goes around the round about down the end of my street without blowing up, success. As the car is one a base map and likely needs some adjustments to idle smoothly it's a bit hard to drive. Coming back home it stalls when approaching the gutter (to get down to my shed), gets stuck in the gutter, then while trying to push it into a better spot out of the way, front wheel stuck in the drain lol Go to get jumper leads and daily as the Silvia won't start due to low battery (more on that in a moment). Car will not start from jump, FML. Remove battery from daily, put into silvia, cranks merrily and starts. Rev the shit out of it to get it back into the shed so it doesn't stall. Neighbors will love that at 10:30 lol On the battery, IT had been on the charger and was "full" but lacked the guts to start the car. I've got it on the bench charging now and will check the final voltage and float voltage. How much of an impact does terminal contact play on resistance (battery in the boot in this instance). The original battery had round terminals, but this current one has square/flat terminals. I got around it by running the bolt that clamps the round terminal down, through the centre of the flat terminal on the battery and taking up the space with nuts both sides so it could be tightened up. So the cable terminal itself doesn't actually directly touch the battery terminal, only via contact with those nuts/the bolt through the centre. My old small battery of the same size and cranking amps seemed to work fine (but had round terminals).

Fish are biting nicely today...

See what I mean, too scared to even call lol

Starting to think you might be a bit scared...

So, lovely boost friendly weather we've been having lately...