No Crust Racing

Shit has been busy AF. Managed to find an hour last night and finished engine mount install, torqued etc, as annoying as the trans mount. These better not suck because I CBF removing them. Reinstalled all the front end suspensions/rack etc. Put strut brace back on and put oil filter relocater back in place (removed for clearance to driver side mount). Can now move onto the back and just finish that infill section off then get it to the tuner. There's a track day on the 4th of June that I would love to attend for a shake down. . Idea with the tune is simply to hopefully match previous peak power but to fix that big phat torque dip through better control of the inlet butterflies. I am willing to sacrifice top end if we can move more power into the mid range and have a better total area under the graph - Also to have some proper knock protection given it has a fresh head gasket on it, I don't want to be doing that again.

He already checked the resistance he said. Where abouts is the sensor located. If the Greddy is the only way you can read that data, my guess is the calibration is wrong. The car would drive like shit with 50deg intake temps/

The difference a clean head makes lol

Wait wait. I just realised you're US, are you talking Celsius or Fahrenheit?

Yes definitely not right. IAT on cruise will usually be a few degrees higher than ambient, but not 50. That's crazy. Sensor location issues or bad sensor.

It ran AWD at Powercruise I think. They said in one of the Motive vids that it was "sorted" and that was the last I heard about it, sounds like you've got more info on it though.

That's old news and old power Maatouks have it now.

At this power it won't make a huge difference. The Greddy will be fine. Plazmaman is popular here because it's a good product, well priced, and easy shipping.

Any of you guys follow Eribusu? Making good power now and would be a hoot to drive with that Albins box in it. Yes yes, not an RB, but f**k me, what a sweet car

Why would i want a dead cockroach, I've already got a dead snail... *Badumm tsh*

Drop a 0 and sure Can't see myself wanting a turbo everyone seems to dislike, but thanks for thinking of me lol

I'm sure it'll sell easy enough​.

I don't follow the single life like you guys do, but are Garrett just not an option these days?

No rage, haven't quit. Still pouring money into my two old Datsuns and waiting or Paul's result ):

Should have been this gif, but SAU mobile is f**king aids.

I dunno what's more annoying, the wait or you guys bitching about the wait. I'm sure of you can ring and ask for him if it cuts you so deep not knowing​ where it's up to Also, so...where's it up to..

Back now workable and have recovered from having my balls chopped. Managed to get under and finish installing the trans mount. Bit of f**king around. I wouldn't rate these mounts highly for ease of install. Moved on to engine mounts to finish tightening, but the previously mentioned f**k around and a sore back made me pack it in, will keep chipping away as there's a track day end of this month/early June I'd like to use as a shake down and the car still needs a tune and alignment.

The more times they answer the phone, the less time they have to work on cars in the shop.

PM'd

Thanks for the info will check it out

Comp map shows peak efficiency around 22-24psi, which is roughly target boost. Oh and I should have clarified, 9kw less, but now has cams, so would have been more if it still had the stock cams in it. The point was that hopefully the cartridge is still be decent if it's spinning well enough to support that power. Anyway, the purpose of the thread was to help me determine what the lack of power and response was, thanks to all who provided suggestions and assistance, we know now the issue and will get it sorted Looking forward to having it running well again.

Able to diagnose a turbo failure without seeing it/the car/knowing the rest of the setup etc? Where were you when I was chasing the issues that lead me to pulling it down and finding the problem. I could have used your magical diagnostic powers lol ;D The question about the billet wheel was just that, a question, I've heard/read various shit about them so asked the question as an option. If there was an identical shweel size that was lighter and would spool faster for a few bucks more, sure I'd look at it. Can't learn about the pros and cons without having a discussion though, I think some of the people on here forget this is a forum sometimes. Stealthiness/defect issue/RWC when selling later/cost are all factors.I am not buying new units, I found some mint ones for less than the price of 1 new one. New ones are 2400 for a pair as it is, the cheapest single kit is, what, 4k new? For a journal bearing 6262 that then needs more fab work and aooarently has shit response anyway. Second hand manifold and single always an option, but still not as cheap as the pair of -9s I grabbed which will get me the result I wanted. To be honest, I'm tired of throwing heaps of money at it so a cheaper/faster option was desirable for me. Nobody else has to like it, it's not their car Not detuning to 300kw either, crazy talk.

Already bought some more -9s, much cheaper and faster to just swap them in rather than have to buy new manifold and fab new intake and dump pipe (needs to go to different shop) and that's just for IWG option, which everyone here will jump up and down about it definitely needing a full TS setup the whole way through.

Sell it to me for $500 and throw in a manifold and gate