No Crust Racing

Not yet.

He can do 64mm billet wheel but that's too big, I don't want more lag. I'm having a chat with him about other ideas, some sort of hypergesr hybrid, but we'll see what he comes up with as I already grabbed some more -9s that came up as you don't see them anywhere near as often as 7s or 5s.

And another 4-5k all up. Will see what new comp wheels cost and go from there. Does anyone know if there's a billet/gtx upgrade possible?

Yes 6262 is the cheapest single kit on there, then need more fab work to connect to cooler and dump/front pipe. Though the 3.6k price is not a BB turbo. How much power will it make? Much cheaper to put new wheels on both I would say. Make some calls tomorrow.

See what we find when they're removed.

Yes

Considering I recently herniated a disc in my back and had a vasectomy on Friday, not much until I recover a bit. Leave it here. Get prices on options. Try not to rage?

Found main issue, failed turbo. Thanks for the suggestions.

Intake gasket is new, new gaskets on exhaust manifold and turbos. Should also show on boost leak test?

I had pressure tested the entire intake previously when chasing boost leaks, up to 40psi. Will do it again to be sure. One thing a static test doesn't show is BOV leakage as anything going past is still in the same pipework, I'm just not sure what the symptoms are with faulty BOVs when the leak is past the seat and recirculating back into the intake. Haltech with 4bar sensor and Mac solenoid. If need be I'll wire the actuator flap shut to test it.

Dose Pipe suggested actuators. I think they are the standard 15.6psi ones that ship with those turbos. Tuner bench tested them, they both crack at 17psi, is that too early for a target boost of 24ish? They "were" working fine. This was them at purchase, those are the actuators. I will test BOVs, actuators preload, and shaft play tomorrow. Anything else?

Do you mean testing the BOVs? All piping to an from BOVs is factory. These are standard garret actuators that come on -9s so I think they are 1bar. They were both bench tested fine. If the BOVs were leaking I would've thought it wouldn't make 25psi in the midrange?

They only had 7k on them when purchased and play was fine then, they have only done another 1000ks since. I will check them again tomorrow. My thought was that running a track day with a boost leak may have had them working too hard and caused an issue. What would I see from faulty BOVs?

If it's an oil seal yeah I guess? I'm talking more about bearing wear/pending failure. I can hear a whistle/whirring that wasn't there previously. Sounds like the whistle a turbo diesel 4wd makes as they spool.

Yes it idles perfectly as I also suspected that maybe the timing had been thrown out. He said it is revving cleanly it is just a boost issue. And if you remember from my build thread I was chasing a boost leak and that whistling sound before the cams went in. Would stuffed blow off valves have this kind of effect? Or does the vented pressure just end up back in the intake anyway and have no bearing on Max boost?

I should add, it had this lag and power loss issue before the cams went in. This was one of the things we were chasing with this visit. Just before your get on your horse

Need some ideas. R34 GTR. Car had 354rwkw with -9s at 24psi on e85. N1 manifolds, full 3.5 exhaust with no cat. Added 4bar sensor and kelford L182-A 264 cams and BC springs. Car is making less power than before and is laggier to make boost everywhere. 345rwkw or so on 19psi and will not make anymore boost, solenoid is max duty. I knew max boost would come down but not that much. Spikes to 25psi midrange but once the engine starts to breath it just falls away. Have tried lots of adjustment of cam timing, bench test wastegate actuators, and checked all the connections. I'm gonna go over and boost leak test it with him again and I considered bypassing BOVs for testing. I'm also going to remove intakes and inspect Comp wheels and free play. Given I'm sure I could hear a new turbo bearing/whistle type sound when it comes on boost, is this symptomatic of failing turbo bearing? The car had 2 boost leaks previously and I did a track day not knowing it had those leaks, worried I've cooked a turbo bearing? Other ideas welcome. Yes I know I should have put a single on it.

Race you! I dropped my modified Cam off yesterday.

Very odd. Keep in mind that turbos act as mufflers themselves so changing manifolds and turbos will have an impact on sound. The easiest fix would just be to remove the mid muffler or change one or both mufflers (I'm assuming it has 2 because it wouldn't be quite with 1). Do not change your turbo setup to chase a sound, the car should be awesome with a responsive 7064. Is it externally or internally gated? What exhaust is on it currently?

Take it back to the cam thread. I'll post in there next week when my setup is 4000rpm laggier for the extra 10 peak kW

Nos.

Good luck Simon. I've got Kelford L182-A baby cams going in now, all indicators point to them being a better option than the Tomei stuff. My goal is to maintain similar response while allowing the motor to breath up top. Happy to dial the gears for response at the expense of the top end as a compromise. I had a really good chat with Josh about my setup/goals and realistic expectations and we settled on those cams with the intent of me creeping over 500rwhp on -9s if possible. He also advised me to go the BC springs given the price I got them for rather than trying to insist I buy his springs, which had lower seat pressure. Very good to deal with, especially when it turned out the Cams the seller gave me were 32/33 CAS lol He modified the exhaust Cam keyway in a day and express posted it back to me, customer service is excellent.

Would the ottomotto or v-cam setups have been a cheaper/better option Simon?

Just chipping in +1 for plazaman 76mm - same car/power as yours. Dyno testing showed a small improvement in response, but negligible power change. The big difference was we could hit it multiple times on the dyno and the IATs stayed steady. This is with -9s running 24-25psi so the air temp out of those won't exactly be chilly. If you get the IAT bung option, be sure to get a new gasket and use some RTV on it, the mounting surface on mine was very thin and it had a boost leak there. The thread for the screw that holds the sensor in was also not deep enough. Stealth for me. No logo painted on the core. Looks stock.

That's what Jesus would have done.