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i want unigroup to do it but i am a fusy prick and i want it done in 4wd. Unigroup know envy performance and they have a 4wd dyno and sometimes use it so i am trying to see what i can hook up.

I am trying to find. Who in sydney does nistunes and has had heaps of expirence and has a 4wd dyno

I would recomend to not get the high Flow cat from justjap it is not as highflow as u may think as i found out and buy a catco cat or metal cat a little more expencive but well worth the money I got 3 quotes before I did the dump pipe back and they all told me to put the justjap cat in the bin they are more high flow than standard but not buy much and it holds the turbo back I got a catco now big difference

i have got the sameone on my stagea perfect fit bolt strait up. Bolts are a hard fit on the back of the turbo because the bigger belmouth but still good.

I live near the rta around the corner and there are l platers Every where it gets so anoying they all try reverse parks in my street another good reason I have a garage I wouldnt trust parking on the street theft and l platers

done heaps of r33s and only ever seen 2 with a factory door motor in the drivers door and you can put the aftermarket door motor dowm the bottom and it lines exactly up strait and have never had any problems or had to go back and fix any they all have a factory switich not motor even 32 33 and all 34s have a factory motor exept n1

hey mate yes it was me i am getting to know some of the stagea in the area its good

the brand is command auto group they are sold in some autobarn and supercheap stores and have switiches for the steering wheel and for a stalk switich can be used on manual and auto and can fit almost any car

could it be something simple like a vacume leak you would not notice a small vacume leak when driving only when stopped

putting a cruise in a c34 is so easy it has a factory throttle hook up and speed input on the computer it took me about an hour to do mine. only had to adjust it a little when i changed the turbo it was over running when it hit boost easy to do.

blue 35 stagea leaving bunnings on parramatta rd about lunch

Spotted white ser1 turning right from yanko rd to lanecove rd in I think its chatswood west and spotted blue I think it was ser1 at bp filling up in westryde both within an hour of eachother if I had seen a third one within that hour I would have brought a lottery ticket $$$$

there is an ignition wires in the fuse panel under the bonnett well there is heaps in my rs4

3 gauges in single din on e bay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BLITZ-Meter-Din-Panel-Gauges-/170654898493?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bbd3193d

You can you put an amp in just about any car u Just need a high to low level converter about $12 they just piggyback off 2 speakers and it converts a pair of speaker signals to rca cables for and amp then find a accessory wire to switich the amp on and off

a company called mearcat makes gauge pods for the stageas where the clock is. I got a email from the company i was talking about the other day they said 65 each for din gauge pannel i just emailed them and said how many do we need to buy to get a better price and how much.

I owe u a big one you said u filled up at midway bp and that reminded me I have got a job to do up there tomorow thanks heaps I almost forgot

jack the car up move the wheel see if there is any movement in the bearings and tierod ends and bushes first bet you there is clicking there

thats almost the same as what i made but it does not screw you need to make your own way of mounting it in there.

hahahahahahaha am going through the same thing right now it only started after i put coilovers in and i thought while i had it all apart i would get the cvs rebooted and checked then put it all back together. The vibration was there after only on left corners so i pulled it all apart again and sent the left cv to be checked again it was ok as we were putting it all back together we noticed the tierod end was a little loose as were doing it tighter we noticed it was stuffed we got it a bit tighter and most of the vibration went away but i have got 2 genuine tierod ends on order $130 should see them on friday. Try tierod ends first.

i put a walbro i have been told the 040 is similar in mine last week took 10min. The only mistake people make is in the tank. *On the line there is a plastic t peice which is a pressure bypass valve and it wont allow mutch more pressure than the standard pump you MUST remove it to get max flow. i found out about it on the dyno and had to remove it on the dyno. *and the new pump uses more power so upgrade the power supply to the pump. mine is just as quiet as the standard pump so far so good

i have looked into it heaps of times if you get the factory gauges you need the factory sensors as well just jap do the gauges but not the sensors they are hard to get on their own unless u find somewon willing to pull the sensors out for u. It cost me less then $150 to make my own and the aftermarket boost gauge does vacume and boost not just boost like the factory one. having vacume makes things so much easier for finding problems. There is no aftermarket torque gauge that is the only downside.

Who ownes the stagea at boss tuning I have never looked under the new stagea Like the new swaybars they are bloody thick nice

Most factory alarms don't have back up batteries check the bonnett switich very common unplug the switich and test it over a few days if thet does not fix it you said there was sensors on the dash unplug them and see how that goes for a few days