pixel8r

i'm not catholic or a member of any church so have no interest in defending the catholic church, but in general any christian religion worth anything will be based wholly on the bible. (If they're not then ask where the credibility of their beliefs lies). A church therefore _should_ not make up its own rules (not always the case). If you dont believe and adhere to the Bible (or even the tiniest part of it) then you're wasting your time attending church. Please dont be offended by this. Its just simple logic. Whether or not this means you see all religions as cults is up to you. There is a difference (it has more to do with what happens when you try to leave - if you are physically prevented from leaving or are harassed - then it is a cult. If you are free to leave, then you were by definition a voluntary member and it is therefore not a cult). Anyways, as per the original topic, it is annoying that successful nations are being blamed for a "problem" that no one really understands yet. Sure we may be responsible, but taking money from us is not going to solve it. We only have a vague idea as to the cause, we can only see a glimpse of the effects (records of weather patterns have only been kept for the last 100 years or so, which is such a small sample size compared to how long the earth has existed). Not saying there's no such thing, obviously pollution isn't a good thing but we really dont know the whole story. I just think its too soon to start making judgements about a problem we know almost nothing about. Put the money towards research, not just hand it out to countries that could potentially just spend it on luxury buildings or even weapons instead of feeding their poor inhabitants (have a look at all of the 3rd world countries - and see how the rulers of said countries live. This is not true for all of them, but some of them are corrupt).

The turbo itself is specific to the M35, the turbo problems are not. I believe the issues are exactly the same as with earlier model stageas, however the M35 runs more boost as standard, particularly the ARX (going by the posts above or on prev page), making a turbo failure far more likely on the M35 than previous stageas. The turbo uses a ceramic turbine which tends to come unstuck from the shaft or shatter when it is exposed to a certain amount of heat for a certain amount of time. If you search all over these forums (skyline R33 & R34 have same issue) you'll find that its generally agreed that 14psi is pretty much the limit for these turbos. more pressure means more heat and if you run 14 or higher psi for any length of time, sooner or later the turbo will break. Why Nissan released the car from the factory running such high boost on these turbos will probably remain a mystery. It seems they were aware of it because the turbo is apparently supposed to be replaced at 100,000km. My RS is stock and runs around 11-12psi which by rights should be fine (my turbo is still going very well at 108,000km) but the bottom line is that if you buy an M35, bear in mind that the turbo may need replacing at some point. It should cost under $2K to replace it with something similar to the factory one, and from there it will likely never need replacing again.

spotted a silver s2 stagea at beachport (SA) on sunday morning. was driving back from mt gambier.

So all this is without any aftermarket ecu? you say the factory computer did this all by itself? I am shocked. I always thought that once you put an exhaust/turbo on etc that the factory computer would never be able to deliver good results...(due to the factory tune being so specifically customised to the standard setup) - I am glad to be proven wrong So just by opening up the intake a little more you've achieved both more power and more fuel economy...I love it

hmm I often get around 450km to a tank around town but rarely over 600 on the highway... My tyres are very very very very very very very noisey due to sharp edges that have formed on the inside of the tyres - had at least 2 wheel alignments in the last 12 months since they were new but didn't make any difference. (a hint - NEVER even consider buying Firenza ST-08 tyres. They are crap. No, they are worse than crap. Am hoping they wear down to nothing soon so I can justify new tyres. They've done ~26,000km and I doubt I'll get another 10,000km from them. Never heard a tyre anywhere near as noisy. Absolute rubbish!!) Am thinking maybe extra friction from these tyres is hurting my fuel economy...? well either way its a good excuse to replace them...

I believe you are referring to the torque converter lockup which will occur if you do this. Often it wont lock until you lift the throttle just slightly. You can tell its locked because the revs will drop by about 500-600rpm. Putting it in 5th using tiptronic helps because otherwise I find it keeps boosting which causes the torque converter to unlock again... At 110 (118 on my speedo - 110 measured by my portable satnav) my revs are normally around 2300. A satnav will give you a more accurate speed readout than your speedo provided it has a good signal and you stay at a constant speed. Interestingly the torque converter on our 5sp auto will lock up in either 4th or 5th gear, when travelling over 80km/h.

There's been a few threads on here about ATTESA controllers for controlling the torque split from in the cabin, but none of them seem to be able to decrease front torque, only increase it. They seem to work by modifying the input signals to the ATTESA computer. Since the ATTESA computer uses the ABS sensors, g-force sensors, throttle position, revs, speed, and possibly a few other sensors, I'm assuming this is no easy task and may be more trouble than its worth.

the stag is out? really? The M35 would be longer than the CRV. So the horizontal space would be more in the stag...whereas the CRV has more vertical space. If you dont like stacking things (and your kids aren't 3m tall) then you'll possibly have more usable space in the stagea. It'll even take a rear-facing baby seat no worries at all As for rear seat room, its more cramped sitting 3 people in the back of my in-laws' toyota prado than my M35 stagea. And I can fit more in the boot without anything getting squashed. Not sure of the dimensions of the CRV but most of these 4WDs are actually smaller widthways and lengthways than a stagea. Anyways, I'll take my "stagea fanboi" hat off now and leave you alone...

I'd be doing as little as possible and just take it back to the same workshop. Dont give them a reason to blame it on you (ie. if they can see you've been fiddling around since they worked on it). Hopefully they are able to fix it up.

As iamhe77 mentioned, you generally wouldn't be on boost while cruising on the highway. Boost is determined by engine load, not rpm. Unless you're accelerating, the boost guage would likely be showing either 0 or -ve pressure (vacuum). At 100km/h the revs should be almost exactly 2000rpm when the torque converter is locked (and in 5th gear). To keep it like that, put the gear lever into tiptronic and bump it forward to 5th gear (it will default to 4th when you first move it over from drive but if you move it fowards quick enough the gearbox will stay in 5th). Keeping it in 5th this way will still allow it to change back to 4th at full throttle, but makes the throttle less sensitive so that you wont keep hitting boost etc. You'll find it much easier to keep the revs on 2000rpm this way than when the lever is in drive.

Happy Birthday mate.

short answer: NO. Snow mode means ATTESA is driving the front wheels a lot. The ATTESA system is not designed as a full-time 4WD system if that makes sense. Basically if you leave it in 4WD mode all the time eventually the clutch packs will burn out and I'm told they are very expensive to replace. ATTESA is designed to give traction where its needed, but drive in RWD where the extra traction is unnecessary. The system most likely wont break if you use synchro or snow mode 1 day a week or something like that...but i wouldn't recommend leaving it on permanently. Just puts more pressure and wear on the clutch packs. This is all stuff I've gleaned from this forum so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Got mine yesterday too. I'd completely forgotten about it.

...the room goes quiet while we all wait with baited breath to hear about this new mod... 7.2L/100km. Thats DAMN good for any car!! you serious?! I realise you have a larger turbo and exhaust, both which will help...but even so, I had both of these (+tuning) on my previous stagea and even then it couldn't crack the 10L/100km mark on the highway. Best I've seen from the M35 is 9.5L/100km and that was 100% highway, no A/C, constant 100km/h in 5th gear.

or you have a leak in one of your hoses (thus bleeding off too much pressure) ? I've not yet looked into how the M35 controls boost but I assume its similar to previous nissans where the wastegate opens at x psi and the hose that connects to it is plugged straight into the intake etc. On the s1 and s2, the wastegate would open at 5psi and where more boost was needed, they just had a second hose coming off the first one and a solenoid would open/close this second hose. When open it would bleed ~2 psi off - so the wastegate then reads 2psi lower than the overall boost pressure, effectively raising overall boost by 2psi. If you had a leak in this hose or anywhere on the connections, there would be less pressure and the wastegate would stay closed longer (thus the higher boost). There is no fancy electronic boost control on these cars. I believe the ECU uses a boost sensor to tell it what the boost pressure is, but it has no way of controlling it. Just a thought, although its entirely possible the ARX runs more boost as standard.

I just took mine to my local autobarn and they fitted my stereo for me, including attaching the little bluetooth mic etc to the centre console near the gear lever. Took them less than 1hr and cost me $80. There is a DIY howto for the V35 (search for V35 ipod install or something like that) if anyone's interested - was for a US model though so its on the wrong side of the car...but easy enough to figure out.

I'm no mechanic and I'm not a huge fan of getting my hands dirty so all the usual servicing gets done by a mechanic (I highly recommend Morpowa or Boostworx for those in adelaide). I dont mind fiddling with bits and pieces though...for example I've cleaned the AFM & the throttle body etc. After a while you do start to get more familiar with the car, which helps to diagnose any problems that might arise. But generally, if its messy or a pain of a job, I'd rather pay someone else to do it.

100% agree. Although it really does come down to how you prefer to manage risk. In my case, I'm with Just Car - ~$800 a year with $1200 excess. I'm 28 and my wife is 25. I've been with Just Car for around 4 years all up (including 2 other imported, turbo nissans) so my lower premium has saved me more than my excess. I realise I may just be lucky so obviously dont base your decision on my example I'm pretty happy with Just Car's policies. Personally I've found them to be the least restrictive insurer of the whole lot. No questions about where I'm allowed to drive and where I'm allowed to park. Other insurers had a hernia when I mentioned that one day I could potentially park on the street (gasp - oh no, not the street). You gotta wonder what world some of them live in... Shannons wouldn't insure my car because I didn't park inside fort knox (nah just kidding, you have to have a bricked-in lockable garage and I only had a carport - with a rollerdoor - I probably could've argued the point and got through but I gave up). I was considered to be a "motoring enthusiast" however (yay ). From all accounts I've heard they are a quality insurer though, which is a very good reputation to have.

Mate, assuming its in good mechanical condition etc (which going by the kms it should be - IF they're genuine that is), you're getting a VERY good buy. I sold my auto rs4 last year for just under $13K and that was in good condition, 95000km, 1999 model, with mods and 160awkw. there were minor scratches on the paint but nothing unusual for a 1999 model car. The manuals usually sell for $2-4K more, depending on condition etc. because they're more rare. DAYZ doesn't add a whole lot (at least not to the price), mostly just branding/aesthetics/bodykit etc as far as I know. Someone on here may be able to tell you if that is a factory DAYZ model (i thought they had "DAYZ" written on the dash etc). could just be a standard model with dayz kit. Still, looking at the pics, at $13K I'd say you should be VERY happy with that.

bit late now but they would've had to make it legal for you if you'd picked up on it when you bought it. somehow they managed to get a roadworthy when they sold it to you...but dealers often "know someone" who does roadworthys. if it were me i'd be paying to get the stock wheel and airbox back on...a couple hundred isn't that much to spend if it means getting a good price for the car. a sale is better than no sale...and a legal car is going to be a much more attractive item to potential buyers than an illegal one...

I was the same...went from a s2 to a pulsar sss. It was so gutless and small (ie. impractical) and the mrs and I both decided enough was enough. 3 months after selling the s2 I'd paid to have an M35 imported. best thing I ever did

From what I've heard, it costs quite a bit to get it tested. It all sounds a bit unfair if one company has to put up their hard earned cash to get it done and then every other compliancer can just get a free ride after that...is that how it works? if so, I can understand why it hasn't happened yet. The strange thing is that the same engine is by far nissan's most popular engine, used across at least 6 or 7 different models (maxima, 350z, murano, elgrand, stagea, skyline v35 and probably some i've missed). admittedly all of these have the engine tweaked/detuned etc to suit the application so emissions would vary between them. Still, laws is laws... It shouldn't be too much longer before the demand reaches a significant level to justify someone spending the $$ to get the new engined passed.

My previous s2 used to make a faint knocking noise when idling. Wasn't loud or anything and didn't sound that bad. It never got any worse so I never did anything about it. Pretty sure I was told it was likely the lifters...so my guess is that its fairly normal on the NEO engines. I owned the car for 2 years and never had any issues from the engine. The RB25's are pretty solid. Not the smoothest idle i've heard but it was always a strong performer.

it goes something like this: * you CAN run them on 91RON (the engine has knock sensors so will retard the timing accordingly), but you probably shouldn't. If you're trying to save $10 per week on fuel you probably bought the wrong car... actually you wont save this much because your fuel economy/mileage will suffer as well...not to mention the longevity of the engine (there is a reason why 91RON is not called 'premium'). using 91RON fuel you will not get the best from the car. you will only get the worst from it... * the M35 will happily run on 95RON, but again, for the tiny price difference between this and 98, and the noticeable performance/economy difference... why would you own a stagea and then cheap out on fuel? * 98 RON is probably the best fuel for the stagea (i've never tried the ethanol blends in mine). Its what its designed for and you'll get excellent results from it. If you want the car to last the distance, give it what it wants. It'll reward you for it

as far as I know its all mechanical in these cars - ie. no fancy computer controlling it and nowhere near as complex as ATTESA. The technical stuff appeals to me, even though in the back of my mind I know that you're probably no more likely to slip in the subaru... I cant speak for the subaru's (only been in a couple of ~2001 model sedans - which i found pretty basic) but the stagea handles extremely well for a wagon and possibly better than a lot of sedans.