pixel8r

$850 with just car. They let you lower your premium if you're prepared to increase the excess. Cant remember what the excess is - I think its about $1200 from memory. I've been with just car for many years - not sure if they take that into consideration... Tried shannons years ago - and was rejected because of the lockable garage thing - I only had a carport which apparently makes a big difference. Made me very nervous about what they would cover....i mean, say i had a garage but always parked the car outside? would I be covered? or say I did use the garage but one night left the car on the street and it was stolen? Now I'm pretty sure they would probably cover these, but I just feel safer with Just Car who in my opinion have less restrictive policies. That said, I've heard better reports about shannons than just car, but I had to go with the next best available option. Its about trying to find an insurer who can offer a reasonable price but also one that can give you a level of cover you're happy with and that suits your car usage.

heard this one the other day: HYUNDAI = Here's Y U Never Drive An Import. gave me a good laugh (sorry off topic again)

fixed it for ya. but i'm confused...i'm assuming you took a photo of it? how did it end up backwards?? it should still have been the right way unless you took a photo into the mirror or something.

Yeah sorry my bad. The series 1 & 2 stageas run at 7-8psi (i used to own a s2). You're quite correct - the M35 is about 0.8 bar. 1bar is definitely too high for these turbos...given the number of posts on here about the stock ceramic turbo (skylines, earlier stageas) disintegrating around 14psi. I'm assuming the turbos, if not the same, are very similar to that of the earlier stageas? I had issues with the turbo in my last stagea, but it was like it before I had the car. I ended up putting a highflow in that and the only advice I'd give to anyone going down the same path is, if you're not planning on spending thousands on performance mods, go for a highflow turbo as close in size to the stock one as you can find. I would trade max boost for quick response in a turbo any day (ie. I ended up with a very laggy stagea, and after spending that much money - I couldn't afford to change it).

is the turbo really that bad? Mine has done 93000km now and all seems fine with it. I've always thought that in stock form it'll be fine. Mine only hits about 7-8psi max (going by the factory guage). I figured that an exhaust might be good but then it will raise the boost a little which could be harmful to the turbo. Being ceramic they would carry the same limit of around 14psi as the older stageas/skylines. Many people on here can attest to the fact that the stock turbo will not last long if boosted near or over 14psi. Fingers crossed mine stays intact - car is completely stock and will most likely be staying that way.

hey i was sort of close... My M35 stagea (imported last year) has 6U90000 prefixed on the front of the original chassis number and someone previously mentioned in this thread that their GTR vin started with 6U90etc. so naturally I just assumed all imports must receive the same code. so now I'm a little confused - does this mean GTR's with VIN's starting with 6U90xxx are JDM and all others are AUS?

Looking good!! Thats an awesome price considering the current market conditions. I bought mine when the exchange rate was at its best - just before things started heading south. I think if you'd bought the same car back then it'd be pretty close to what I paid - so yeah I'm impressed that you're getting one for that price from a dealer. I've noticed a lot of M35 prices dropping lately, but I dont think they'll drop much below $20K for some time yet. Looks like we'll need to have a brissie cruise sometime

All (Nissan?) imports have 6U90000 added to the front of the VIN when they arrive in australia. The Australian VIN then becomes 6U90000 followed by the original VIN.

Another M35 in brissie - welcome!! Great choice too. I've not driven a holden lately but compared to ford falcons (wagon especially) the stagea gives a much better ride (in my admittedly biased opinion) - better handling, and more power. And for the first time, the M35 now delivers more torque than the falcon too. You'll enjoy it I'm sure.

Recently I've had my M35 in at Nissan for a service and I mentioned that I thought the front wheel bearings may need replacing. I thought just the front right needed doing but Nissan told me that both front ones would need replacing. At $260 a side plus fitting, they're not cheap - so I want to be as sure as possible before getting these fixed. Basically the noise has been getting slowly worse over the last few months - and is now audible at all speeds unless there is significant wind noise or something. It sounds basically like excessive road noise but gets sort of higher pitched the faster I go and is quite low pitched when driving slowly. The pitch goes up/down with vehicle speed, and is unrelated to revs or throttle. ie. Putting it in neutral and letting it roll makes no difference, and also there is no difference when coasting or under heavy throttle or even braking - it seems to only be related to how fast the car is moving. However a couple of people have told me that it wouldn't be wheel bearings since the car has only done 92000km. I just cant think of anything else it would be. If you've had your wheel bearings replaced, what did it sound like? Is it unusual for them to need replacing as low as 92000km? Just dont wanna spend ~$600 getting them fixed if its not the problem...

Actually now that I think of it - Nissan were going to check the plugs on mine but because the throttle body needs to come off, they needed a new gasket which they didn't have in stock so weren't able to do it. There were quite a lot of things they weren't able to do due to parts, but they were very helpful in at least looking it up and having a go. They were still able to service it and rot&bal the tyres which is what I originally put it in for...so it wasn't all bad. They weren't put off by the extra hassle either, and offered that if I need any parts just to let them know and they'd order them in. I'll definitely be going back

I had similar issues. I took mine to Nissan and they flushed the power steering fluid due to it being a bit gluggy, which improved the steering a lot and I'm thinking this may have been putting intermittent strain on the drive belt - causing the revs to dip and sometimes stall. It hasn't stalled since I got the car back (just over a week now). However it does still rev low (500rpm) when idling and occasionally the idle has a tiny shudder. I've tried resetting the TPS switch, and I've done the Idle Air Volume Learning procedure (which it sometimes just stalls during) but nothing's really changed. The ECU is throwing no faults, and the transmission fault code said something about CAM or something - its to do with a communication link and didn't appear to be an actual fault. (code 17 or something) Other things I may try in future is spark plugs and fuel filter (does it have one or not?). Mine's done 92000km and so it will be due for new plugs soon. Will be due for the 100,000km service later this year so hopefully it holds up till then. The M35 has a timing chain, not a belt, so servicing costs for the big 100K will be much less - woohoo!

Well doesn't that just suck...I had to go out today and got home about 4:00. Still in time to watch the last hour of the clipsal 500 - thought I should get to see the GTR parade around the track at least once (was thinking for sure there'd be an accident or something requiring the safety car)... sure enough - safety car was called, and what do they do? ad break. Didn't get to see it at all!! Yes I did watch the race for over an hour just to spot the safety car...and now I'm disappointed. Maybe I'll have to watch the race start next time. Anyone got pics from today?

Had my car serviced at keema nissan service centre on wednesday. Very impressed with how willing they were to help out even though a lot of parts I needed for some other stuff weren't available (suspension bushes, wheel bearings, etc). The stalling seems to be fixed - idle is a lot smoother now, but still idles at 500-600rpm and I have noticed it dip slightly before quickly returning to 500rpm and then it will sit smooth on 500rpm. The solution was basically a power steering flush - apparently the fluid was pretty gluggy. Steering is noticeably improved so I guess that means it was bad before... Other than that they did use full synthetic engine oil too which was great. The last place I took it only used semi-synthetic even though I specially asked for full synthetic. They also did a wheel rotate & balance as part of the service. Previously I thought I had some suspension issues or something at the rear left. However now it drives so smooth - better than it ever has. The engine is smoother, everything is better. The car has never been so good. I dont know what those Nissan guys do but they worked some magic on my car Thanks Nissan!!

Just out of interest, is there any actual drivetrain loss during normal driving - ie. while the AWD hasn't kicked in? I know it always drives the front wheels just a touch, but surely any drivetrain loss would be negligible? Also, if the AWD does kick in, its because you've started to lose traction at the rear (or it thinks you will soon), so the AWD would be faster than RWD in these cases anyway due to the extra grip. Its been proven that the stagea is faster down the drag strip with AWD than it is with the front tailshaft removed. The AWD gets it off the line quicker and so any drivetrain loss is more than compensated by the AWD traction. The only real benefit to RWD only is weight (and i suppose some prefer less traction for a bit of fun). If you can remove the front diff and everything associated I believe it will shed ~150kg or so...but I'm pretty sure it'd be a lot easier and more sensible to just buy a RWD stagea? Without the front diff, RWD is faster than AWD, but this is mainly due to the drop in weight.

Did you get it to the point where the MIL start flashing? Read below for the plain english version...(by me)... You may need to use a stopwatch or something to count the seconds. Turn ignition to ON (dont start engine). Wait 3 seconds Then over the next 5 seconds, push the accelerator all the way to the floor and then release it fully - do this 5 times quickly within these 5 seconds. Then wait a further 7 seconds. Now push the accelerator all the way to the floor again and hold it for 10 seconds until the MIL starts flashing. When you see it start to flash after 10 seconds, release the accelerator straight away the light should then keep blinking - giving you the fault codes. it will flash up 4 codes, pausing between each. it will blink slowly for the first group, then fast for the next 3 groups. 10 flashes in a group = '0'. ie. code 0123 would be 10 flashes, pause, 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes, long pause, repeat... turn the ignition to OFF when you're done - this will exit the diagnostic mode. next time you start the car it will be back in the normal driving mode.

Just realised the above is all in the manual. For those who dont know, you can find all of this an much more related info in the infinit G35 service manual which you can find online - do a google search. The infiniti G35 is what we know as the skyline V35. There's also more diagnostics for checking fault codes on other systems in the car too.

Just thought I'd share with you some very handy info I was given tonight (by a Nissan tech). Its easy to check the ecu fault codes - something I didn't realise. I believe the below would also be in the manual... (btw MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp - otherwise known as CEL / Check Engine Light - its orange and on the right hand side of the dash in the M35). ACCESSING: NOTE: To access trouble codes, accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor must be functioning correctly. Ensure accelerator pedal is fully released Switch ignition ON. DO NOT start engine Wait 3 seconds Within 5 seconds, repeat the following 5 times: > Fully depress accelerator pedal. > Fully release accelerator pedal. Wait 7 seconds. Fully depress accelerator pedal and hold. After approximately 10 seconds MIL will start flashing. Fully release accelerator pedal. Trouble codes are now displayed by MIL. Count MIL flashes. Compare to trouble code table. Each trouble code consists of four groups of one or more flashes. Ten flashes in a group indicate '0'. The first group of flashes indicate the 'thousands' of the trouble code. The second group of flashes indicate the 'hundreds' of the trouble code. The third group of flashes indicate the 'tens' of the trouble code. The fourth group of flashes indicate the 'units' of the trouble code. A short pause separates each trouble code group. A long pause separates each trouble code. Switch ignition OFF. ERASING: Ensure accelerator pedal is fully released. Ensure ignition switched OFF for at least 10 seconds. Switch ignition ON - DO NOT start engine. Wait 3 seconds. Within 5 seconds, repeat the following 5 times: > Fully depress accelerator pedal. > Fully release accelerator pedal. Wait 7 seconds. Fully depress accelerator pedal and hold. After approximately 10 seconds MIL will start flashing. Fully release accelerator pedal. Trouble codes are now displayed by MIL. Fully depress accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds. Fully release accelerator pedal. Trouble code 0000 should be displayed. Mine showed the code 0000 (10 flashes x 4 times) so didn't solve the problem I was looking for but at least I know all the sensors are working etc.

Well since I also need a service and new front wheel bearings I've decided to let Nissan solve this one as well. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully they have all the parts there otherwise i'll need to go back again once the parts are ordered in. No big deal though. If they find the problem I'll post up on here what it was...

possibly. Wasn't having a go at him, just putting forward the other side of the story. Note all the smileys I interpreted it this way: Its implying that the GTR needs more boost to get in front. If it was meaning the GTR couldn't COMPETE because of the turbo's, why not just say so? I reckon the GTR could still win with a tweaked v8 from the superGT cars. I'd rather see it with turbos but if the rules say v8, then they've got that option there. However my honest opinion is that even if another manufacturer came up with a 5L v8 car with all the right specs, there would magically appear some other "rule" banning them from entry. And the worst part is, that just competing and winning doesn't automatically make you a favourite with the fans. You're competing with people most of whom own holdens and fords at home. I'd rather see a new racing genre with a more open playing field from the start...and leave the V8's be.

Thanks for the info. I also found the above info - as well as the following: http://www.6mt.net/forum/performance-mods/...procedures.html Description: Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification. Preparation: Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment. - Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle) - Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F) - PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch) - Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.) - Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position) - Vehicle speed: Stopped - Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.) Operation Procedure: 1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" 2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order. 5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. 6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds. 7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds: 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications: Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position) Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position) Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position) Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position) 13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure: 1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed. 2. Check PCV valve operation. 3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage. 4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable. 5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again: - Engine stalls. - Erroneous idle. I tried this and I could confirm the CEL (check engine light) did flash for about 4-5 seconds and then stopped blinking. However when I started the engine at step 10 it would stall seconds later. According to the above then it would seem I have a problem that needs to be sorted out first before doing this reset. Each time it stalled (at step 10) I was able to start the engine again and it would idle at ~600rpm. At this stage I dont think the reset was successful - and it looks like I'll need to fix the stalling issue another way. Maybe my TPS is faulty? I dont know. it would certainly explain a few things though. But if it was faulty, why does it seem to drive ok and only have an issue on idle? btw, my apologies to the topic starter, let us know if your issue is still unresolved and if so I'm happy to move my issues into a separate thread if you like.

I've tried resetting the TPS like you said, and I've also cleaned the AFM and reset the ECU (disconnected battery), but its still doing the same thing. Drives fine out on the road but when idling it seems to drop really low then quickly steady itself at 500rpm, where it doesn't feel smooth since its idling too low. It does make the steering harder too when its revving this low. Will check the manual but its looking like a faulty TPS or something like that. Any way to check ECU fault codes by myself? or do I need to take it to Nissan (or someone with a consult cable & software) to do that? I knew a lot more about my old stagea (series 2) but with this one I'm having to start over...learning it all again.

The 3.5L NA version isn't available here for compliance or something like that. I'm not sure on the full details but there are a couple threads on here that detail it all. It makes no sense since that same engine is available here in several other nissans, but who said australia's import laws etc ever made sense? There's a lot of guys here who would want one of those, but I've yet to hear of any being legally complianced and registered in aus. As an aside, the 3.5L NA might have slightly more torque around 2000rpm but certainly comparing max power, the 2.5L turbo version is both more powerful and has much more torque. Plus you get to hear the turbo spool up every time you "take off". There are pros and cons with either though...its not all about peak power. For a daily drive family wagon the NA version may make more sense? who knows? anyways, offtopic - hopefully I answered your Question?

i'll bite its already within 18seconds of the v8's time around bathurst (which is a fairly fast track). Thats in stock trim. Put some racing slicks, race suspension, brakes, less weight (race cars are just a shell - no interior), and maybe a few extra hp (it only needs another 50-100hp to match the v8's) - and I think you'd be well proven wrong. Nissan do v8's too (incl for racing) so we could even do that if the turbos really are that offensive. I read your comment, saw what car you had listed next to your name, and wondered what you're doing on a nissan forum? (scratches head) I dont mind if you like nissans, i mean thats why we're all on here right? Welcome - maybe we'll convert you yet? It had to be the safety car because the rules wont allow it to be anything else....plus its good marketing for Nissan. Also the popularity of the race would decrease if a car made in another country beat our locally made ones. Thats just how it is here. I'm a huge nissan fan but I'd probably not want the GTR's racing with the v8's (its never gonna happen but entertain the thought), just because of the controversy and arguments it would create. The GTR is too good for that.

Awesome!! Hopefully this works for me. I didn't realise there was such a way to do this... Mine idles on 500rpm (no kidding) sometimes less but the needle wont show much below 500rpm - and about 600-700rpm with a/c on. I know it should be higher than this and it doesn't just affect idle, it feels a bit dead sometimes when just cruising along - like it just drops out until i touch the accelerator again. The other thing it affects is that it rolls backwards if i'm on an upward incline and i lift my foot off the accelerator. normally auto's shouldn't do this but ours does and its a bit disconcerting :S Hopefully this is a simple fix otherwise I've thought maybe I need to get the idle adjusted (can you do that?). Its really only started stalling lately - and only with a/c off (a/c lifts the revs a bit you see) so I'm pretty certain its just something simple like the above. Will let you know what happens... Other suspicions i have are air-flow meter or spark plugs (no idea what they used in compliance).