pixel8r

Mine is just clipped on, same as the "RS FOUR" badge at the bottom right (if facing the car). Pretty sure this would be the same for all stageas.

The double-unicorn badge on the front grill is standard I believe. Make sure you get the one you want too. The S1 badge is coloured, and slightly different - with red at the top and green at the bottom or vice versa... But the S2 badge is just flat and silver/chrome...and probably half worn away if its anything like mine

Not sure if it does or not...will check this arvo when I finish work. I can definitely tell its engaged the a/c pump etc but not sure about revs - pretty sure it still idles at ~700rpm with a/c on, and has been known to dip for a split second before, making the car give a quick shudder....extremely rare though. I've heard about the AAC valve, just didn't realise it would be related to this? Whereabouts is it located and what would I look for to check?

um...not applicable to the stagea - see my original post. As I explained, the stagea wont actually start the a/c until a couple seconds after the car starts, so the starter motor knows nothing about the a/c. Basically Nissan made sure this wouldn't happen. What I'm talking about is the fact that there seems to be a slight difference depending on WHEN I turn the A/C on....weird...but maybe I'm just being too picky? I've also been led to believe that the so called extra stress on the starter motor due to a/c being on is mostly just a myth in todays cars...

Last time I was in Brisbane I found that a lot of those screens on the side of the road near road works and tolls are often incorrect as well. One was reading the same as my speedo, whilst others were out either way by sometimes 10km/h or more at just 60km/h. However I have tested it against my GPS and also timed it against some markers next to the road just outside warwick QLD (5kms, if i keep constant 100km/h between them, i can find my ACTUAL speed when the speedo is on 100km/h)... Mine is about 10km/h out at 110km/h...so for me, 120km/h on my speedo is actually 110km/h. The higher the speed, the more the discrepancy...eg, when my speedo reads 80km/h i'm actually doing around 74-75ish... GPS seems to be the more reliable method - providing you sit at constant speed for a bit and it has good satellite visibility Wondering if 18" wheels with the profile to give a slightly larger rolling diameter would fix the problem a bit...

Thanks - will get it checked out when I can

and in the wet.....what tree? Dont those rotaries have issues with reliability? Sure they're quick and no doubt fun, but at the end of the day I'd take the 34GTR that cliffo has now mentioned he is looking at getting. comparing the S15 to the R34 GTT is a different story to the rest of this thread. IMO the SR20 doesn't come close to the RB25NEO but it really depends what kind of package you prefer. For me, the silvias are too light and harder to keep straight when you have your foot to the floor, and the build quality is not as good as the skylines of the same year. Also the skyline looks tougher (to me anyway). But then I'm biased cos my stagea has the R34 NEO engine. Off boost its performance will rival that of a n/a silvia (s13 at least, not sure about s15), even though its ~570kg heavier.

The powerFC should solve your fuel-cut problems for good Hope you get a good result from it

Hey, I've always thought my car is painfully slow in hot weather with aircon on (it is) and that's that, but lately I've been noticing that it can be ok if I start the car with aircon switched off and just turn it on after idling for 10 seconds or so. I'm not sure what the difference would be but when aircon is on when the car starts, it just seems to put a lot of strain on the engine and the car seems to struggle a bit. It also takes longer to reach boost since it wont rev anywhere near as quick...but will start to boost at around 2500rpm as per normal, only its more pronounced and sudden compared to with aircon off. Anyone know why (1) its so painfully slow with a/c on (maybe the extra a/c fan is sucking up too much power? it seems to be on quite often) (2) it seems faster when a/c is turned on (by pressing the button) a few seconds after the car starts rather than being already on when the car starts. could it just be a sensor or something?? btw, even when a/c is already on (ie. the light is on) when the car starts, it doesn't actually fire up the a/c until about 1 second after - presumably to go easy on the starter motor, so its nothing to do with any extra strain from the a/c clutch when starting or anything.

Yeah I definitely wasn't intending it as a AWD vs RWD thing. I was just curious to know what life is like in the wet for those on the "other side" of the fence, thats all. back on topic, M35's do have more torque but it seems that is countered by the extra weight... however on paper (and otherwise) they are an awesome car.

If you think about what the FCD is doing, its the same as running your SAFC on increasingly -ve numbers as you get higher in the revs...if that makes sense...but you wouldn't do that with the SAFC since you'd risk detonation so why do it with the FCD? With the FCD the ecu may reach its clamp setting at just 12psi, but if you have the boost set to 15psi, thats 3psi more, meaning more airflow, and yet the same amount of fuel as it was flowing at 12psi...that just spells trouble. Also I managed to get past the fuel cut with my safc, just had to tweak the settings a bit. Its just that the SAFC has its limits and you reach those limits the more you up the boost. You may find that replacing the stock AFM with a Z32 or something may give you a bit more range...but sooner or later the SAFC will not be enough. In this case its time to move up to a more capable ecu such as a emanage or powerfc (or maybe you have other options?). The FCD would only be a step backwards IMO.

commended for doing what they are required to do? The fact remains that they are at fault for even offering the car for sale without compliance availability (which is fine if the buyer is aware it may not be possible - ie. for track/race cars etc, but this doesn't sound like the case). My opinion is that they shouldn't have accepted any more than a deposit until the car had been fully complianced and only then should they have taken the rest of the cash. Sure Muz knows NOW that it cant be complianced, but have a think about who was making the more informed decisions at the time... However its nothing to do with me so I wont comment further. Suffice to say that if a company makes a mistake, fixing that mistake is what they are REQUIRED to do, its not what I'd call "going the extra mile". I believe you are. Muz has not mentioned the name of the importer, and has been very reasonable about it when all is considered. I dont believe anyone said "dont buy through this importer" either...its more just a "buyer beware" in order to caution people and get them to ask the right questions when they do go through an importer. At least thats what I took from this whole thing.

Wouldn't S15's be in the same price bracket as an R34? or are they between 33's and 34's?

The boost solenoid trick is covered in the forced induction section from memory (search for "high boost solenoid" that should do the trick). But you mentioned you're running an EBC so it wont apply to you anyway. The ecu doesn't control boost in any way as far as I'm aware. There is an R&R mapping it will fall back to if it detects excessive airflow, but thats not really boost control. For anyone else, in short the trick is done by cutting the BLACK wire that goes into the plug on for the stock boost solenoid. Ground the end of the wire that goes to the ECU (not the end that goes into the plug). and tape off the end that goes into the plug just to neaten things up. It would be a good idea to leave a bit of wire on the plug end so you can "undo" it if you later decide to. All it does is set your stock boost at just over 7psi (out of the factory its set at only 5psi until it reaches 4500rpm and then it will up the boost to just over 7psi). As for losing traction in the RWD stag, if you put your foot to the floor on a wet road, without TC, will the rears spin? because in general the AWD stageas can accelerate in a straight line at full throttle on a very wet road (in pouring rain too) and not break traction. On a dry road/track the difference would be minimal, depending on your power output. It does make more difference in skylines but the extra weight of the stag helps the RWD out a bit.

Thats only around 149kw. Not much compared to some 2L petrol turbo engines. I think the torque figures on the diesel would be more impressive. The later SR20DETs were 2L and pumped out 184kw (247hp). max torque however was only ~275Nm and not until 4800rpm or something. So yes I think the impressive part about the diesel is not the max power, but the combination of max power and max torque and how low in the revs this torque is available.

Basically, what Brendan (Tangles) said. My preference would be the safc since it'll help out with more than just avoiding the "boost cut" (for the sake of something to call it). I believe its based on airflow, rather than boost pressure. R&R can make it really bog down or it can actually cut ignition completely. I've felt both, and can confirm an SAFC will overcome it. However if you're happy with the car running as it is (normally a little bit rich from the factory) then the FCD will be the most cost-effective option.

They will definitely flow more air than a paper filter, I wasn't doubting that at all. And this will also lead to better fuel economy due to less intake restriction. However I was just cautioning people to read up on them first because like I said people have had problems with the oil stuffing up the AFM - possibly due to over-oiling (i never oiled mine myself so could have been over-oiled by a workshop). Also pretty much as a general rule, the greater the airflow, the less filtration. The level of filtration may still be enough to protect your engine, as you have experienced...but thats a choice each individual needs to make.

haha and lose your arm in the process? Ever tried to get a cat near water? they will kind of cling to your arm and dig their claws in very deep. I owned a cat until recently - had to give it away cos I'm moving interstate and cant afford to put it into a cattery or risk not getting a rental place due to owning a pet - was very sad to give him away but at least he's still happy and looked after. Feral cats on the other hand I dont have a lot of sympathy for. I've heard they can be quite nasty. However they will kill rats and mice and even snakes so can be handy if you live in a rural area. The pepper method above sounds like a good one Also be aware that killing the cats may not be what you want either - because you will inevitably be the one cleaning them up....and that wouldn't be pretty or fun.

On a positive note, it shows that many of us are very passionate about our car, and our skyline model of choice. Most of us had reasons for choosing the specific car/model we did, over all the other skyline etc. models available. However I agree its unfortunate that people feel the need to take it further than necessary when debating the pros and cons of each model on here... Look at it this way, if there weren't so many different models of skyline, half of us probably wouldn't be driving one...

Is anyone here able to comment on the low-down torque of either engine in the SAME car? because I stand by my original point that the feeling of extra torque is more to do with the 250-350kg less weight than anything else. The torque figures of the rb25 (r33) and sr20 are in the same ballpark so it'd be close between them. The RB25 neo (r34) is the clear winner however. however, you _could_ say that the s15 would feel like it has more low-end torque than the r33...fair enough. Some numbers to look at: S15 200SX (aussie-delivered): 147kw @ 6400rpm 265Nm @ 4800rpm S15 Silvia (jap spec): 184kw @ 6400rpm (for the manual only - apparently 165kw for the auto). 275Nm @ 4800rpm R33 skyline: 187kw @ 6400rpm 295Nm @ 4800rpm Doesn't really say much about low revs though... The weight difference makes the S15 a quicker car all round...although the extra weight of the R33 would make it easier to handle at higher speeds. but the info I'm most interested in is the R34 skyline: 206kw @ 6400rpm 343Nm @ 3200rpm (plenty more torque than the SR20 and original RB25 and at much lower revs too). I've mistakenly been basing most of my comparisons on the latter RB25 (i own a stagea s2 with the neo engine) so I cant really comment on how the RB25DET in the R33 performs. I wrongly assumed both RB25's were very similar, with the R34 one only having ~20kw more, but looking at it now - if anyone wants to know the difference between the two engines, its a nice 48Nm of torque that hits 1600rpm lower in the rev range, or to put it another way, 1600 more rpm of usable torque. Mostly thanks to improved VVT I believe

yeah thats just the factory bodykit. pretty sure you cant get an s2 without some kind of kit, the only differences i've seen is in the front bar - the two "pillars" (one each side of the rego plate) are sometimes in a "/ \" shape rather than the "\ /" shape on yours (and mine). Hope that makes sense.

K&N filters are not as good as the normal paper filters. Sure they let more air through, but they filter less, allowing more particles to get through than with paper/dry filters. They also have been known to cause problems with the AFM (stalling etc) due to the fact they are oiled. This happened to my silvia turbo after fitting a K&N panel filter. no problems before using the K&N filter, and no problems after i changed it back to a cheapie bosch one...had to clean the AFM on several occasions while using the K&N filter and it seemed to make a noticeable difference each time I cleaned it... A lot of people claim to have had no trouble with them however so make up your own mind. Still, the fact remains that they dont filter as well as some other brands. A few tests rated an Apexi filter as offering better filtration and performance than the stock filter but I'm not sure which product it was exactly. I use an Apexi dry-type panel filter for what its worth. I honestly couldn't say I noticed any difference in performance or fuel economy. And the same goes for the K&N filter I used in the silvia turbo. The biggest difference was the induction noise, had to check a couple times that I'd installed it correctly - thats how loud it was. I figure the air filter is one of those mods that will likely give an improvement, but not something you'd notice just by changing the air filter alone.

Must be a huge difference in gear or diff ratios between s1/s2 and m35 then...

The turbo shouldn't really make a difference to fuel economy on long trips should it? Unless you do a lot of overtaking etc.? Can anyone confirm what the boost level is when just cruising at 110km/h (around 2700-2800rpm i think from memory)?? I'd like to think its not on boost at all or at least very minimal... As I see it, fuel economy would be determined by engine efficiency and gear/diff ratios... The stagea 4.3 diff is what makes the fuel economy so bad I think. But it does help it to get up and go so I wouldn't recommend replacing it

My s2 had around 100awkw when stock due to an exhaust leak that was hurting top end boost, and yet I still managed 8s 0-100 (measured with a stopwatch from in the car) with 2 people and some luggage in the car...so I'd say thats about right for an s1. I'd expect a fraction quicker from a stock s2 thats running well but probably not 0.5 seconds off. so yeah probably closer to 7.8-8.0 seconds, rather than the 7.0 i first mentioned. 1/4 mile would probably be around 15.5 but that really depends on the driver. The above times are for an auto as well. Not sure if of times in a manual. Under normal circumstances, the torque converter in the auto allows boost to be kept up during gear changes so the auto tends to be slightly quicker than the manual down the drag strip. and I'd be guessing the stagea times in the wet would not be much slower than those in the dry. In my last car (nissan silvia turbo) I used to have to go very light on the throttle when accelerating in the wet, not so with the stagea. Have only ever broken traction going round corners in the wet, and even then it was able to pull back into line without any trouble. I've no doubt there are limits however so I dont take it for granted. Also, back to 1/4 mile times...it seems from what people have managed at drags, that around the 160awkw will put the stagea in the mid-low 14's - depending on the setup. I'd estimate mine to be around mid-high 14's due to the slightly larger turbo. Still a good deal quicker than stock though.