Dobz

Agreed, it's a bit convoluted what you're going for. It kind of sounds like you're trying test the effect of grout on bore deformation from head bolt torque but it's not clear enough.

Selling due to having change over unit built with the gearset I want. In good condition, no grinding or crunching. Had 162k km’s of use. Clutch in good usable condition, has the normal heat marks, still has factory machine marks on plates. 40k km’s of use. $1800ono for both, would prefer to sell both together for the moment. Pick up from Geelong

One of each sold. Still have: x1 AFM x1 Adapter harness x1 AFM housing

Bump Willing to separate R35 AFM units $160 each. RRP$275 from EFI Hardware NZEFI adapters $30 each. RRP $50 I've decided to keep the K&N filters. The AFM housings are HPI brand and had been modified to take the 4" filters, it's a hard sell now they're modified so i'll put them up for $50 for the pair. Free shipping Aus wide on each item

Parts are brand new, decided to go in another direction so these parts are now un-needed. Includes: x2 R35 AFM units x2 NZefi adapters to connect to the factory harness x2 AFM housings with 80mm piping diameter x2 k&n universal pod filters with 4” flange $500 Free delivery Aus wide

Price drop $100 delivery included

Still in perfect working order. $150 for all six delivery included

Sold

Came on the car when I bought it, done around 30,000km with me. Still work fine, no leaks or knocks. Has a 375lb/in (6.7kg/mm) spring on the front which nicely tightens up the front while keeping good comfort. There are also two spare sets of springs for sale I did some experimenting with x2 500lb/in (8.93kg/mm); x2 575lb/in (10.27kg/mm) After $1100 for the lot or $900 for the coilovers (original Tein front springs included) and $100 a pair for the heavier springs. Pick up Geelong or can ship at buyers expense.

All sold, please delete

Still available. BCNR33 is R33 GTR so the harness won't fit, the RB25 S1 has a different power plug and igniter plug. The coils will still fit RB25 S1 though. PM me to work out postage

Just upgraded to R35 coils so clearing out my old coil setup. Do-Luck Enhanced ignition harness suit BCNR33 $80. Used, still works a treat, fixed a high rpm and high load stumble I was having. Six Splitfire coils $100. Used, unknown km's as they came on the car but still worked fine. Two adjustable cam gears $30. Used, still fine though have some cosmetic damage from careless adjustment. ACL race bearing STD size Main and Big end bearing set for RB30 $100. These have been tucked away in a box for years and rediscovered recently, brand new in box. Located Geelong Vic Can post if required

If there was vapor coming out due to crankcase breathing you might want to put an inspection camera down the plug holes and check for a potential glazed bore. If no.3 was getting washed down with fuel there might be some excessive cylinder wear.

What makes you think there is a problem? It looks normal to me, the first test shows no abnormal unevenness side to side.

CORROSION PROTECTION The extreme pressure chemistry used in many gear oils can be corrosive to brass and bronze used in synchronizers and bushings. Most gear oils are corrosive at temperatures of 200°F. Red Line Gear Oils are non-corrosive up to 300°F and the MTL® in excess of 375°F. A corrosive gear oil can shorten synchronizer life by half and can also contribute to rust problems. https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/red-synthetic gear oils.pdf Also Redline only specifically say the Heavy Shockproof isn't recommended for most syncro boxes due to it being too slippery. Go for the Lightweight, be sensible by not slapping gears and the gearbox will be fine. If you ever put a decent replacement in then go to a standard gear oil.

Probably pivot ball snapped, happened to me coincidently in an R32 also. What are you like at rev matching? If you do alright you can just drive it, i've done it a few times in different cars though its a bitch in the city. Just get it into first, turn the key to start it in gear and away you go. To stop just put it in neutral, stop then turn it off, put it back in first gear ready to go again.

After turbine temps will be lower than pre turbine, the only experience I've had with it was moving a temp sensor from dump pipe to pre turbine on a diesel. At low load there was a difference of about 30-40 degrees, at high load it was about 80-90 degrees difference. With that the pre turbine temps on yours were possibly in the 900's. Unwrap the exhaust and make up a heat shield if you want to control radiant heat. Too much heat loading on a thin wall piping will mess with the metal chemistry and warp the whole manifold. Cast manifolds can get away with it more because of high thickness which increase heat storage capacity and rigidity. 1. If you're unsure of the tune then take it to a tuner before you possibly destroy your engine, judging by how the carbon has been scorched out of the manifold i'd say the tune needs a check. 2. Don't be carless and bash the limiter because it just looks stupid and will help destroy your engine quicker.

Is the egt gauge on the dump pipe or before the turbine? If that is the state of the inside after you pulled it off I would say it has overheated big time. A normal look would be a patina of carbon, not a scorched earth look.

Agreed. On my full weight R33gtr with stock brembos, super dot4 and intima pads I would get major fade half way through flat out 10min session at sandown. After making up some simple air guides to deflect air into the front rotors I would only get minor fade after a full session of thrashing.

Alternator sold

A lot of people including me will be interested in this. The more detail the better, cheers.

RB25 VCT pulley, valve and cams in working order, no issues. $250 RB26 alternator works fine, had as a spare though it just doesn't have a pulley. $100 RB30 ACL race main and rod bearing set that were intended for a build that isn't happening. $100 Can post anywhere or you can pick up if you are in Geelong.

Who installed the engine after the rebuild? If it was the company that rebuilt the engine then take it straight back and get them to take care of it, if it was you then you're pretty much on your own unless the shop is nice enough to take a look for you. It's a good idea to not use workshop names because a company name can easily be dragged through the mud for something that may have been of their control.

In perfect working order, only removed to make way for a 120 amp upgrade. Pulley not provided. $100 Pick up Geelong or I can post at buyers expense.

Taken off a friends gtr a couple of years ago because of an upgrade, I bought them as a back up incase I blew mine but now have no need for them. Selling everything for $150 Pick up in Geelong, Vic