Dobz

Aren't wheels protruding from bodywork deemed unroadworthy?

Too much air pressure in the cooling ducts for the mounting pins to handle? Either that or the car just hated wearing cats ears on it's head.

An easy google image search would give you and answer as to which one. Logic should tell you that a fully machined lead in on the left side is where it goes.

Are the studs tightened into the holes? A quick thing you can try is just back the studs off from bottoming out by a thread so they can wiggle around a little. Then try to wiggle the manifold on. When two threads bottom out on each other the stud can tweak to one side. The more clearance a thread has the worse it can tweak to one side.

The info is out there already it's just some people are too lazy to go and connect the dots themselves.

Please don't use the F&F word here.

XKALBA the second paragraph is what I was trying to explain, sorry if it wasn't clear. Hypothetically if you had a big enough brake master cylinder you could overcome air in a brake system too. MJTru what you're saying is this topic should have started by saying "get a dry sump- the end"?

Having a blocked restrictor hole creating an air pocket wouldn't drop the pressure at the bearings but create a lot of lag in building pressure. Just think about how a few air bubbles can affect how your brakes work. MJTru if you keep complaining you may as well sell your skyline and buy a toyota corolla so we don't have to hear your opinions anymore.

Overhead freeways a top existing roadways would be the most sensible way to upgrade. If you have a fairly extensive overhead freeway map you could hop suburb to suburb or get out of the metro area quickly without clogging suburban roads. There would no doubt be a lot of whingers crying about how they look though.

Check for play in the wheel bearings too.

fatz you lazy bastard put some restrictors in, that's a big part of the problem right there. Oil does no good for your engine when it's all floating around at the top.

As I said before fatz you have to raise the level of the breathers on the sump by some means if you need to over fill to keep supply to the pickup. It's either that or you need to extend the sump to make more volume below. And for effs sake put some kind of can on the breather from the filler cap as a last line of defence against dumping to ground.

It's very irresponsible to just dump you oil on the ground willingly for someone else to slip on and crash.

It will fit and crank collar is highly recommended. Edit: No your rb20 doesn't have extended pump drive.

You can use aluminium nuts safely as long as there is a lot more thread engagement to spread the tension along those extra threads. And they would need to be replaced regularly so thread wear doesn't become a factor. As GTSBOY said they are just wanky and they only offer a bees dick more of suspension performance.

It looks like the sump breathers are just pumping the excess oil up to the can and back through the top breathers. You need to be able to raise the breathers up some more by welding a tube bending upward like a little snorkel. Not sure if there would be room to do it though. Is that breather off the filler cap really dumping to ground?

As stated previously, any power difference is usually placebo effect. Tuck a quality 3" muffler up in the standard cavity and put a dump pipe on it. Having idiotic cannons hanging down on stupid angles is a good way to get a cops attention.

There needs to be an event on Bogong High Plains Rd between Mt Beauty and Falls Creek. I've been up and down there a number of times in the past always couple of months before winter. It's still ok weather and only the odd car or two on the road. The Great Alpine Rd is too old and shredded up imo.

Plus the inlets on the 20 can only fit peas through. The silicone hose is a bad idea because if that happens to blow off you instantly have a run away engine on full throttle.

Wasn't that one of the fast and furious movies?

Those pads in the pic look normal, those scuff marks that run diagonally don't. Is that from roughing them up last time? Have you had the calipers inspected for sticking pistons and have you checked the spring plates don't allow the pads to move up and down in the caliper.

I agree with the above. Though I would say all the load is carried by the friction from the clamp force. Maybe severe shock from hitting something like bad a bad pot hole might place load on the spigot centre, the wheel or tyre would most likely be damaged though. Just think those plastic spigot spacers would need to be strictly outlawed if it weren't the case. If the wheel has a means to be properly centred on the hub the biggest concern should be: Old studs (no knowledge of past treatment), damaged threads, insufficient nut engagement, insufficient or excessive bolt torque. I've seen a couple of cases where studs have snapped whilst driving because the wheels were done up with a pneumatic rattle gun with no consideration of bolt torque. I've worryingly seen the same practice in some tyre shops too.

As 89CAL said a decent stainless washer will do. If you don't have factory lock nuts you can just go to the bolt shop and ask for prevailing torque lock nuts. These have the three press marks on one tapered side to form the lock.

If the solenoid is closed when unplugged then it will be trapping air in the top of the diaphragm and not allowing the gate to fully open.

KiwiRS4T second that. XGTRX I'll second that also. You don't know if they have set the crank timing right so you can't just go moving the cam pulleys around. Cam timing is ideally set by lining up the factory marks on the oil pump and crank pulley and the cam pulley marks against the cam backing cover.