Dobz

Cheapest way is do a couple of rinses with thinners. Brake and carby cleaner can be bloody expensive. Slosh them around, dump and refill until it comes out reasonably clean. Just be sure to let it drain and dry enough before installing.

If you install the new plate against the freshly machined flywheel and then you put the old worn pressure plate back over the top can you guess which side will be glazed after a very short use? You need at the very least a new standard pressure plate. I never asked how the old one came to need replacing and how much power you are putting through it?

By clutch cover I assume you mean pressure plate. Just out of curiosity would you be getting the flywheel machined?

So it looks like I should get on this train and ride it all the way to money town.

Thought I would raise this one from the dead. I've noticed r33 gtr's are dipping into the high teens in price but it seems the r32 gtr is getting more expensive. After trawling around the net and seeing some nice stockish examples of r33's in the high teen and low twenty area I can't understand why someone would buy an older r32 in the same price range or higher. I'm just after opinions on why there seems to be this trend whether it's collectability, preferred styling or are people just asking too much money for the r32 gtr?

If the sealing faces are smooth and without scratches, pitting or dents then you don't need any sealant with the gasket. This is providing you tighten the part down in the correct order to the correct torque.

Where was it hit and how much damage?

rb20 bolt pattern is different. I'm sure someone has an old rb25 manifold lying around with one. Just put up a WTB or search parts for sale. iruvyouskyrine the rd28 diesel had the same stupid design flaw too.

It will probably slow down coolant flow enough to cause a hot spot and either warp or crack the head. edit: The top section of the manifold is primarily for bleeding air from the system and offers very little coolant flow to the top hose.

That plays a big role in directing hot coolant forward to the top hose.

You'll be reducing the throw on the slave more with the nismo making the problem worse assuming the rod length is the same. You need to pull the stock one to compare. You could just make a longer slave rod to get it in to adjustment if required. If you have a hacksaw and a bench grinder you can go and buy some 4140 steel rod and cut to the length you want. It wouldn't need much more length by the sound of it.

The system is properly bled? I'm curious on the reason you bought the nismo slave, is your clutch extremely heavy?

Straight and right angled? This doesn't describe them very well. Put some photo's up to show the difference you mean. Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal to move the take up point?

How many k's on the odo?

rb25de neo are much smaller. Nissan wanted to increase airspeed to improve cylinder filling on the de. They can be ported out a fair bit though they can't be ported to the full rb25det port size unless you want to screw around with welding and machining.

Just at a quick search it looks as though the hx35 is designed for 5-6.5 diesels with many design and specification differences. I can't find wheel sizes on Holset's site but from what some diesel forums say they use a 60mm ex. with an in. wheel varying from 54mm up to 78mm.

I would think as a minimum you'd want the warm idle pressure as the accumulator discharge pressure.

How fresh did the coolant look when you first checked it? The main ingredient Ethylene Glycol in coolant starts to turn acidic from heat over time.

Has all the air been bled from the line?

Exactly how high is the take up point of the clutch, does it disengage with the slightest push on the pedal?

Yep, that's an oil drain. Check the hole it meets with in the head.

Have you check water temp sensor? 3km/L seems very excessive. Is there a lot of black smoke coming out the exhaust while driving? I know you said it's driving nicely but I can't see a car driving too nicely when it's using that much fuel. One thing I'm having trouble understanding is how you were getting 13.75-15km/L on an engine moving a 2T car in the first place.

If you're so worried just sell the rods and buy some Nitto ones with the holes already drilled in them. stig0000 the rb30 blocks don't have oil squirters in the block.

The cheapest and easiest option would be to get some squirter holes drilled into the rods. As long as you have a standard rb30 rod with the size and angle of the hole for a machinist to work off. Edit That is if it won't cost more than a set of rods with holes existing.

Good work! Will you slot your pistons to accommodate them?