Dobz

It depends on how much more midrange you want without sacrificing bottom end torque. Upgrade turbo (gt3071) or equivalent Put some gtr injectors in and retune. Should beef up the midrange at minimal cost.

How deep are they?

It sounds like you need to go for a softer pad. It would be a good idea to get the rotors resurfaced too.

I'm not too sure on how hard the metal is on your brand of rotor but it could be part of the problem. If the metal is hard and the pads are hard then they will glaze and squeal. Is the squeal louder with harder braking and is brake performance bad?

Have you tried slotted rotors?

Try open and closing bleeder with pedal pressing. Open bleeder and push down on the pedal. Close bleeder and let the pedal off. Repeat. Hopefully the suction created when you let the pedal off with the bleeder closed will help draw fluid through. The other alternative is finding a suction bleeder.

A wine with a delicate flavour and slight overtones of unburned fuel. Spam or not it sounds like an exhaust manifold leak at the turbo or the head. Check for leaks and check if fasteners are tight or broken.

That is an important part of the manifold. It helps the flow of coolant across the head and helps prevent hot spots due to coolant lingering in areas of the head too long. A classic example is the RD28t diesel heads in Patrol 4x4. They don't have this and subsequently get hot spots around cylinder 5 and 6 possibly leading to cracked heads and blown head gaskets.

There should be laws against rich idiots buying cars they don't know how to drive.

The R32 water line thread is also 1.5mm pitch. You can get helcoils for that thread diameter and pitch. I forgot to mention the pitch earlier sorry.

That being said I still think it has it's place depending on what sort of power delivery you want. I put a gt2876 with a .86 rear housing I had laying around on my rb25/30 because that was all I had at the time. While the most I could squeeze out of it was a mere 260rwkw it had nice bottom end response. Now I have a gt3076 I can appreciate the extra bit of grunt the 2876 had down lower even though it doesn't have the top end power of the 3076. That being said they are terrible turbos to put on rb20 or rb25.

From memory the R34 turbo has M18 threads for the water lines and the R32 water lines are M16. The option that may cost a little more but is by far the least hassle is getting an M16 helicoil. You don't need the whole kit just the coil that goes in the thread because the tapping size for the M16 helcoil is M18 size anyway. Just use a set of long nose pliers to wind it in and break off the little tang. You can pick them up from any good bolt shop or engineering supplier. As for the oil line, look inside the banjo that bolts to the block. If it has only a very small hole in it then it would be ok, if its a big hole then you need an oil line from a later model motor.

^^ What he said.

If you're on a budget just put an rb25 turbo in it. You'll have a lot more fun that way. I've been down the rb20 with gt2876 route and the terrible amount of lag got annoying really quick. I tried different wastegate vacuum locations and a smaller ex. housing with no big improvements. The best I got was full boost at 4000rpm with nothing but slug performance before that.

Yeah it was just the "torque" part I was most confused with. Will this engine even develop any real torque?

Please explain "racetrack style torque profiles"?

The penrite 10 tenths is good stuff. I've used the Penrite racing 5 oil (now 10 tenths) since I got my old ford laser years ago with about 250,000k's on the clock. It's now done near 360.000k's and it's still going strong despite being given some hefty punishment over the years. I used to do changes every 10,000 but it's down to about 5-6000 now because it slowly gets noticeably more sluggish and rough after that in it's old age.

Just cap off the flange and do as r33_racer said, use a flexible bellow for the exhaust. The reason so many of those manifolds crack quickly is because they're solid mounted to the exhaust which acts like a big lever on the manifold. Don't try and weld bracing on it, it an just make things worse.

If the OP wants to waste his money on going backwards in performance then good on him. Who are we to tell someone how to spend there money, even if it's being wasted. All we can do is just put palm to face and move on. The real bagging can happen if the practical results don't meet the OP's claims, we hope he'll post up final results regardless.

What sort of power goal do you have? It would be a good idea to do a search of the site to get info on modifying your rb25.

As long as the flywheel is ground completely flat you will have no problem.

A leaking turbo gasket will consistently make a woooooo sound under load and it does kind of sound like a vibrating bearing.

Definitely helps with cooling. I made a small one for my r31 rb25/30, it's the width of my stock radiator and it extends from my radiator to the start of my sump. After some hard mountain driving I noticed my water temp definitely stayed lower than usual. As has already been said before it also helps with down force, reducing drag and stopping wind noise. Though they're just another thing to remove when doing major work it's well worth keeping it.

Post up a recording of it if you can. Check for splits in the silicon hose and check that the turbo is bolted tight to the exhaust manifold.

It still looks serviceable, provided you extract that bolt and aren't going to be revving the engine very high. If you're looking for high rpm then a new aftermarket balancer would be a good idea.