Dobz

Make sure you remember to undo the torque converter bolts before undoing the bellhousing bolts. Otherwise you'll end up frustrated and covered in auto fluid.

Just need to put it on the dyno to check out afr's. As for the white smoke, does it only puff out for a few seconds when you take off after idling and/or when you start your engine up cold?

If the sound is from under the car it will be a dry pivot ball. You want to put a small dab of grease in the socket area where the pivot ball contacts. You pull the slave and the rubber boot out. Gently pull the fork off the pivot ball a small amount to get your finger in and dab some grease. Having a heavy clutch and a dry pivot ball will increase the chances of the pivot ball breaking.

Fuel and oil additives are just a waste of money.

Yeah he really came through for Nismo_God. Now he can finally fix the car.

19psi, not tuned and chugging out black smoke on boost? How much more of an indicator that it's not right do you need?

Is this implying you installed the lower arms with only two threads holding the large thread to the arm?

How that thread just slipped out of position without getting any obvious damaged is very strange. I need to see a better quality close up of the thread. The thread engagment must have been so bad that tightening the lock nut up put the thread on the verge of just pulling stright out as it looks in the photo.

So is it spitting out black smoke and running rough only when it's warming up?

I just read your post and this sounds crazy. If you want my advice, get a carby maybe?

Hmm thermostat motor? If my calculations are correct this mechanic is talking shit. Chances are it's not bled properly or you have a leak.... or your radiator cap is old and can hold proper pressure anymore. And xntrq I have to correct you. Whether you use tap water or distilled water it will be the pressure in the cooling system that determines the boiling point. Higher pressure pushes the boiling point higher so if you have a leak or the raditor cap is old you can't hold enough pressure in the system and the water boils.

These are the things you ask BEFORE you do the work. As far as I know going up in capacity means you need to get emission tests and what not which can be expensive and you won't always pass.

The message on the end of the video is wrong. Whether it be looking for the oil light to switch off or waiting for a reading on your oil pressure gauge, you should ALWAYS prime the oil before you start the engine. Even though the clearances looked to be ok with the plastigauge some of the surfaces looked badly glazed. To me that would be reason to put some new bearings in seeing as it was apart. Did you check the cam journals for galling? Some advice for the video I would give is keep the part where you show the bearings in real time. The shaky camerawork sped up makes it harder to see the bearings in detail.

I'm guessing you pulled it off to check the bearing? Just put a very thin smear just to be sure. That is if the gasket is still in good condition. If it has any tears or is a bit rough get a new one, there's nothing worse than putting it all back together to find it has a leak.

That is the face that contacts the pressure plate. Front cover gasket? I'm pretty sure the nuts that go there are M8 x 1.25mm.

Compression test it, if it has good even comp across all cylinders keep it but if it doesn't then sell it and try to get your money back. If it's a keeper get rid of that turbo and possibly the ecu. A stock turbo and stock ecu would be ideal if it's your first turbo car. As you can't drive it now in the mean time you can check over it and fix or neaten it up where necessary. Eg. Check and replace old fluids, replace old hoses and hose clamps etc. How much do you know about working on cars?

Did you try adjusting the clutch pedal?

I bet you're waking up at night in cold sweats over this? The real verdict will be after you drive it regularly over a week, just keep an eye on it in the mean time.

You don't need to touch the ecu with small mods like that. The main thing is you don't put the boost any higher than 12psi. After that the ecu starts fingering itself.

Maybe they spare you the point if you pay on time. You have to check the WA laws. For the same fine in Vic you'd get a point straight up.

The only option is to pay it. Sure you got screwed around because of a dodgy breathalyzer but in the end you had your fog lights on when you shouldn't have.

Don't bother going to pedders, they're useless. It's not in Melbourne but Chad's Off Road Setups in Geelong might be able to help you out. I'm not to sure if he's dealt with car coilovers much but he's well equipped to work on dike bike, road bike and off road buggy/car suspension. I pulled down and serviced my own coilovers, I just had to go to him to fill them with nitrogen. http://chadsoffroadsetups.com.au It's worth calling to see what he can do.

Bingo! Those driveshafts would have gotten away with too it if it wasn't for their pesky owner snooping around.

Did you adjusted the clutch pedal after it was installed?

The bearings in your engine will be stamped with either "std" or "0.25" etc. Check them when you pull them out.