Dobz

What castor rods do you have and how old?

You mean those dodgy bolt on "racing" pedals that can potentially come loose and fall off which can cause an obstruction behind the brake which will limit the amount you can press the brake down and affect your stopping distance? Yeah they're going to be deemed unroadworthy on ANY car.

No that was for jjman. All you have to do if keep the radiator topped up. Another thing is to take it for a drive once you've finished. Once it has cooled down check the overflow level because it would've sucked some coolant in. Top it up to max level and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't keep on droppiing. If it does then you have a leak.

When the pressure test shows it's holding good pressure the next link in the chain is the cap not holding up. I'm not having a go but you can improve your bleeding method a lot with a couple of small changes. First is you don't need to jack the front of the car up, the system is designed so the bubbles move towards the radiator and bleed screw easily on level ground. Second is you should undo the bleed screw when first filling the system to let the displaced air escape. You keep filling the system until it comes out of the bleeder, only then you start the car and top up as necessary.

Is the radiator cap new or old?

Mods? Sounds like it's too rich when cold.

I've had hks three bolt pulleys for four years now with no problems. As mentioned above, even the cheaper knock offs are allright as long as the fasteners are good and they're done up properly.

Better off getting cams to suit rb25. If you go rb26 cams you'll need solid lifters, same with rb25 neo cams.

Put it on a dyno to check fuel mixtures. It sounds like they're leaning out on cruise. Does it only do it at low rpm when cruising?

It's welded it's self. You'll find little bits of brass imbedded in the flywheel. Any brass button clutch that slips bad enough to create massive heat will try to weld it's self to the flywheel.

Has anyone ever considered that a big part of the cooling issues for RB's could be due to the terrible design of the water pump impellers? They're cavitation prone things and rely on underdrive pulleys to slow them down for adequate operation at high rpm. Compared to a lot of water pumps these days the design is ancient.

Yeah with the ecu wire just on the other side of the relay coil to control it. Still check for continuity to earth through the ecu wire to confirm it works.

I imagine the trigger would be an earth. Get a multimeter and test the continuity of the wire to the chassis as soon as you turn the ignition on.

I'll have to correct you on that because it isn't true in the case of ester synthetics like this. They have very high stability at high temp. so they don't break down quickly to cause the sludge you talk about. It depends on how you use the car as well. If you street drive it and do some track days then you wouldn't be dumping it straight away if it was fresh oil before the day. If it was a full competition car then you wouldn't even use an oil like this unless you had the money to burn. Sure it would start to break down and sludge eventually depending on things like: power output, service intervals and how hard you stress the engine.

You water temp. would only sit around the 80 degree area anyway. Even if the water temp. reaches 100 degrees the pressure in the cooling system raises the boiling point. This is why it's important to replace old radiator caps that don't hold the right pressure anymore.

Holy crap! Sure it has SOME improvments over the 300v Competition but not enough to warrant that price imo.

It would be interesting to see how much the nismo stuff costs compared to the 300v Competition.

I always thought adding a bit more fuel and timing would spool the turbo quicker.

Though you might have good fuel flow it's up to the injectors and what controls them to determine the amount of fuel in to the engine. We really need to know what the electrode and the porcelain on the plug look like? If the porcelain is on the black side then it's too rich and if the porcelain is pure white then it's running lean. Do this: Start your car let it idle to operating temp. Then lean on the throttle so it splutters but doesn't stall for thirty seconds. Switch the car off and let the car cool down so you can check the plugs.

Have you checked the spark plugs for any signs of it being rich or lean? It sounds like it could be leaning out more than anything.

My guess is the 10% difference in design to the original wheels they copy will be adding thickness to the critical areas to match the strength of a forging. This will also add weight. Sure cast aluminium wheels can be strong and cheaper when using quality materials and casting methods but they can't match the strenth to weight ratio of forged wheels.

Need more description on the problem. At what rpm does it start to lose power? At what rpm does it start to splutter? Does the amount of throttle you use affect it?

They will fit but RB20DE cams are a downgrade from DET. The only differenctes between the two are the DE cams have 232 degrees duration on the intake and the DET have 240 degrees as well as having slight differences in lobe centre angle.

Yes, if the turbos shat good enough to grind the compressor wheel on the housing then its a goodidea to clean the IC and piping.

The spokes are way to thin for what i'd imagine is a cast wheel, it would be borderline even for a forged wheel. You can see it broke right after the radii on the wheel centre which is where it sees the most stress and where it should be designed stronger. Wouldn't even use these wheels if they were given to me.