Dobz

They just hold the pads in place. Pull the wheel off and check the wire that holds the pin in place.

Still haven't gotten an answer whether the protective coating was cleaned off before use. Another factor is how you actually use your brakes, it is possible to ride the brakes too much and put excessive heat in to them.

Don't get a nismo bracket, it's just a stock one with some mig welds to strengthen it. Pull your bracket out and get it welded.

Its a strange one. Call up a few locksmiths and describe your problem, they might have done a few the same already.

So you had a hose off the bleeder nipple into a jar with the end of the hose submerged in fluid?

Its not scratched on the sealing surface so it will be ok. You need a proper seal pulling tool or something with a strudy hook on it so you can yank the old seal out without damaging anything.

Are you sure you bled the system properly, how did you bleed it?

The only way a shim over bucket design would spit a shim is if the valve springs weren't the right pressure for the amount of rpm and boost the engine is running. Having clearances at the big end of the tolerance would make it worse.

Oil pressure

I should have checked the picture first I guess. In that case, yes it does need replacing. Not sure how much a new one costs but it might be worth looking for an auto wreckers that has a decent second hand one.

It's leaking from the thread isn't it? You don't need to replace the sensor if it is.

Don't over tighten it, you might wreck the thread. Take it off, clean the oil off the thread on the sensor and in the water/oil exchanger with a can of brake or carby cleaner. Use some gasket sealer on the thread of the sensor to help seal it when you do it back up.

HKS 2540 turbos. These are laggy on any rb26 setup I hate to say.

Try pushing on the door while you turn the key. It's possible there is something pushing more force than usual on the lock latch and it won't release.

I forgot to ask for some more background on the problem. Did it start all of a sudden or did it progressively get worse?

So the key can turn in the lock but it doesn't open the door? Or do you put the key in and you can't turn it at all?

What spark plugs do you have and how old are they?

If the carrier can slide up and back even a little bit that means it's not jammed. I'm thinking it's a hydraulic problem because you say you bled it but the pedal still goes to the floor.If there was a jam and the system was bled properly then the pedal would be solid and wouldn't push in. Just a thought, go and check your clutch pedal adjustment and see where its at. It might be screwed in too much and need adjusting out. Out of intrest, how did you bleed the clutch?

So once installed on the motor, the bearing carrier won't slide backwards and forwards even a little bit?

What fuel pressure regulator are you using? I've had that happen to my gtr injectors because I tried to wind up my fuel pressure too much.

I'm on the hunt for Federal 595 RSR tyres in 255/45/17. I called up a tyre dealer and he informed me that he could only get 255/40/17 but he explained the tyre profile would be the same as 45. Clearly 40 and 45 are different numbers but seeing I'm not tyre guru I don't know what to believe. Is this guy talking crap?

pm sent

You need front shocks that are set up on a "90/10" ratio. I'm no expert on the matter but from what I understand the shocks draw out easily to transfer the weight to the rear wheels when launching. The shock then has a slow compression to help keep the weight on the back as you accelarate.

It's ok nismo_wrx we're not going to judge you if your penis is having problems. It's obvious you're just using "My Skyline's turbo doesn't work" as a metaphor.

It's baffling that you can't find new exhaust studs. Any decent exhaust shop should carry the right ones you need. Try looking at online companies or exhaust shops further away that have them and could post them. There's no point buying old used exhaust studs from a wreckers.