Dobz

The bore will be out of round without a head or torque plate tensioned down. Measure where the high and low spots are, mark them and see if there's a pattern. From what i understand the low spots should all be inline with all the cylinders.

Were the head bolts you used new, were they tensioned up to the right torque in the right order according to the workshop manual? It would have been a good idea to skim the head warped or not, for $80-100 it's worth knowing your head is flat and has a good surface finish for sealing.

There would have to be a fair bit of oil to be getting past the rings to make it run rough as guts, it would also be chugging out white smoke. Best to rule out the coils being he problem first. With those compression numbers a rebuild would be on the horizon but it doesn't mean you shouldn't properly diagnose the problem first.

Thanks for the reply. It's an R31 with S13 Silvia turbo brakes so I am asking a lot of them. I considered using the yellow stuff pad but as it's the first time I've used any sort of performance pad and I thought the red stuff pad would be adequate. The red stuff pad never lost any of it's braking performance even though I did cook them to the point of crumbling. I really need bigger brakes as well I suppose so I'm not putting the smaller pads under so much stress.

I pulled out my EBC red stuff pads today to find the friction material cracked and close to crumbling. Has anyone had this happen to them and would it be caused by getting the pads too hot? They have had about 100km of fairly hard use up and down a mountain road so I would assume they have seen a bit of heat.

I'm looking for centre caps for these Ray's wheels and I need to know what model they are. Thanks in advance.

+1 Also do as blind_elk stated, get at least a heat range 6 plug with a 0.9mm gap. Get it back on the dyno and get the tuner to sort out the tune because unless you have noticable intake or exhaust restrictions you should be making around 260kw with that setup.

http://carbonrev.com/ They finally have a wheel for release that will be allowed on the road, even though they only have one model of wheel at the moment. I was lucky enough to work at the engineering shop to machine up the inner and outer moulds for the wheel rim and machine up the little 7075 aluminium wheel nut inserts. Hopefully they start making some that fit Skylines very soon.

Wouldn't bother going to the trouble of O-ringing it's pointless. Just get a metal head gasket and arp studs, though if you're only looking for around 350kw you can get away with a stock head gasket and arp studs if you have a good tune. As for porting just clean up the protrusions in the exhaust ports and give them a polish, no need to mess around with intake. A balancer you'd want would either be a Ross Tuffbond or ATI. A sump that can hold 6.5L with good baffling should be enough and with your oil drains drilled out and cleaned up you won't have a problem.

Hey. Joe. What ever you're worried about don't be, there's nothing wrong.

If the bearing was making noise then it's definately worth looking at, either way if you can't find the problem externally then the next step is gearbox out to inspect the clutch unfortunately.

Very strange. So as soon as you got back in the car the clutch wasn't working properly? Have you checked all the line fittings, there are no leaks?

15" definately not. 16" will fit.

Lightened flywheel won't be causing it. Has it slowly turned bad or did it happen pretty quickly? Is the clutch dragging? eg. moving forward when in gear and the clutch disengaged.

pm sent

It's very hard to say what it is exactly when we can't have a good look over it. I don't think it would be to do with the valves, who did all the work to the engine?

Does it use a steel manifold gasket? Has it always done it since it was put back together?

Make sure theres no dirt and crap that can easily fall in then you undo all the bolts and you should be able to gentle lift it out, it will catch on the float when it's almost all the way out so be careful and just swindle it out gently. The seal will expand bigger than the groove when it comes out making it a prick to sit back in to seal it, a trick is to put the seal in the freezer to shrink it enough to sit back in the seal groove. Do a search, there has to be someone that has documented the process on the interwebs somewhere.

The machining and fitting of something like that would cost a lot of money. If you can find out what's involved with building an os giken 3 litre for the rb26 then that would give you a good starting point for the rb25.

Who tuned the car, What boost are you running? 145kw seems low but the auto won't be helping matters at all. Where's a pic of the turbo? We don't have crystal balls we can look in to and magically see what your turbo is. Talk to Hypergear about standard turbo high flows. As for your your diff ratio...... NFI this isn't the Z31 club, you're better off trying a google search on that one.

Well that went well..... for ACA

Sounds familliar, mine was nicely rusted on too. You can get anti-seize to put on it, i think you can get little tubes and you should be able to find it at a fastener or engineering supplies shop.

There is a track in Somerton that you don't need to be a member for to go and have a drive but it's only small. There's a big track at Beckley Park just outside Geelong but you need to be a member, as well as for the track that's near the West Gate Bridge. They're the only ones I know of.

+11tyf**kingmillion New rule: only people in to motorsport can live near race tracks and anyone who complains gets a paddling!

$100