Dobz

stock rb25 head, no vct rebuilt rb30 block with mahle forged pistons and the usual pump drive upgrade driving stock oil pump ross balancer trust low mount exhaust manifold 3" straight through exhaust 38mm tial gate gt3076r 56t turbo 2.5" intercooler piping with 560x380x75 custom return flow intercooler stock intake manifold with stock throttle bored to 60mm bosch 680cc injectors, 044 fuel pump with adjustable reg. microguess ecu running six bosch coils want to change ecu and put 3.5" exhaust on next

looks like window washer tee piece.

Retracted comment due to following post. It is true though because a workshops buisness can be affected by this sort of bad reporting, even if it may not have been their fault because we weren't getting the full story.

If the injector had been dumping a heap of raw fuel in to the cylinder then an oil change will be necessary. Fuel diluted oil= nothing but trouble.

You say you use an oil type filter, i've heard of them depositing oil on the AFM from suction and causing problems. Probably not the answer but worth looking at.

Price goes down $120 delivered

Get a timing light on it to be sure it's right. What plugs are you using and are they gapped?

You could get a slide hammer on to it, you would have to make sure you have a good amount of thread so you don't just rip it out. When you are heating the gear are you deflecting the flame so it doesn't heat the crank at the same time?

got any pics of the body work that needs to be done?

I drove the LEAF earlier this year in Japan and it has a range of 180km off one charge city driving and it goes down to about 150km when using headlights and/or air con. Not sure about highway driving though. It takes 8 hours to fully charge from a normal power outlet but nissan have special units that can charge it in just over 30mins. I think it's a balancing act with trying to maintain car space and not fill the thing with batteries to get more range out of it, you can understand this car is aimed at city folk only and would rarely if ever leave the city the people live in. Driving it is weird though, not having an engine to hear and feel how fast you're going wothout looking at the speedo makes it hard to find and maintain speeds unless you're constantly looking at the dash.

I've got an old trust manifold that is well past it's used by date and has been repaired too many times. I'm after someone who is willng to make a steampipe copy of the manifold because I can't be f**ked changing my setup and I don't want a high mount, i've rang 6boost and they weren't keen on the idea. If anyone knows who could do it let me know. Thanks.

That's the front of the calipers. He ground the "NISSAN" off the front for wheel clearance, I thought you would be able to figure that one out. Who in their right mind would fill in the brake line holes!?

+1 for the 2530 turbo, i know you can't really associate "good response" and "meaty mid range" with rb20's but that turbo will get you up to 220kw with the fore mentioned words.

Forgot to put up a pic and forgot to mention it has new brake pads included.

I bought these off a mate who upgraded his brakes, they are in working order and yes they are painted gold for some stupid reason but it's ok i gave him shit about it. I'm after $150 I'm in Geelong if you want to pick up or post can be arranged. Thanks, Aaron.

I bought a HKS EVC III once..... ended up in the bin. Good job. Put the whole thing up in the DIY section, even though it won't help me now.

It's the same story for the CARe carparks which are private and have no association with council. I park in them only for short periods because it is private property and they do have the right to tow you if they want though it would be unlikely.

Have you checked the thread on it to see if it's rounding off? It sounds like it's been done up too tight in the past for it to strip.

Not worth it, too many head gaskets to replace! As mentioned, a stock rb25det neo woth some upgrades will get you moving along nicely and you shouldn't throw yourself in the deep end with regards to power. Going from a piddly NA on the street to something with 200+kw and not knowing how to control it is a sure way to wrecking something or someone.

Slave cylinder has been bottomed out and it's disengaging the clutch. The rod needs to be shorter and just how much shorter will become clear once you pull the slave cylinder off which won't be easy seeing as it's under pressure from the clutch. Once you get it off push the cylinder with the rod in up against the clutch fork and see how far out the slaves bolt holes are out compared to the ones on the box, that'll give you a rough idea of how much shorter the rod needs to be.

It sounds like it could be rubbing on the front lower cover, check it by taking off your fan and pushing a broomstick up against it to see if that muffles the sound. Who replaced the belt and were new tensioner bearings used?

This doesn't make sense to me, if the problem was due to using ARP head studs then pretty much every person with an RB25 using them would be having this problem. EDIT: I thought i would do some calculations on cross sectional area according to your measurements. Two stock 2mm oil restrictors (which i assume you have) have a total cross section of 6.28mm2 and from your 11mm stud in 11.5mm hole measurment the total cross section of area for oil for both studs is 17.66mm2. It doesn't add up.

The best way to do it is to not do it. Why do you want to mess with a turbo's performance just to try and make it sound like a vacuum cleaner?

RB25/30 is the go Take pics of the damage and your setup.

Did you put the ARP studs in when you put the second hand head on?