Dobz

I forgot to ask if it broke off right at the shoulder?

If it was cheap low grade oil then it'd be a good idea to change it anyway. Putting some Redline shockproof lightweight oil in would be a good idea, it makes shifts feel super smooth in my opinion. I think your clutch would be fine if it's not slipping under high load. Does the car want to creep forward with the clutch disengaged and in gear? And also does the clutch engage quickly when you just lift your foot off the floor rather than your foot coming off the floor a bit and then starting to engage? It's what is usually called the bite point, the point at which the clutch starts to engage when you lift your foot. You can adjust the clutch pedal to have the bite point close to the floor or you can adjust it back so you have to lift your foot further off the clutch pedal to engage it. We need to know where the bite point is to help clarify the problem a bit more. T

So you clutch definatrly doesn't slip, even under high load eg. 4th gear, full boost with foot flat to the floor?

The metal could have been hardened too much causing the shaft to fracture, then break rather than flexing and absorbing force. Depending on how many shafts they harden at a time there could have been a batch that slipped through QC or the guy testing them didn't care that they were a bit harder than the tolerance.

What are your rear alignment settings as duncan said? A lot of negative rear camber will make wheel spin easy.

Do you not see the absurdity of your thread? Just because two cars have IRS it doesn't mean the diffs are designed exactly the same. It's very likely that falcon diffs and r33 diffs are internally and externally different in many ways.

So it only makes the noise when the clutch disengaged in reverse and not in any other situation like when it's disngaged in neutral or in a forward gear?

I bet all the people who own those cars would have a freezer full of fancy vienatta desserts!

What?! So if it starts and moves it can be registered?

That would've required engine out. Though that engine could be mistaken for a 20B... you have to watchout if you push over 500ps you could blow the head gasket.

How do you get a heap of crap and growth in a fuel tank?! The only way you'd be able to do it if it's as dirty as you say would be to pull the thing out, pressure wash it and sit it upside down to drip dry.

If your fuel mixtures are a bit on the rich side your oil will turn black a lot quicker. The excessive unburt fuel that get's past the rings under boost and the carbon that gets scrubbed off the cylinder walls is what does it.

^^This.

Was the timing belt in good nick and properly tightened when you pulled the cover off?

you can get rb25's for cheap.

You may have answered your own question. Take the shims out and see if it changes anything.

haha yeah you're right. Just put an rb26 in. Another option is to just use the vg30 engine, that is if you want a lot of practice at pulling out and reinstalling the engine. Putting a vg30 in a z32= engine out.

Sr20 is not as crazy as you think, sure it wouldn't be a ball tearer torque wise but it would do a lot of good things for handling.

Just cut a hole in the bonnet to accomodate the belt cover.

It almost looks like the engine could drop lower by the front on photo. It would be more helpful if there was a photo showing the sump on and steering rack installed.

Has anyone driven the Great Alpine Rd through the mountains in Vic?

Just like R. Kelly rained down on that teenage girl, then got arrested for it.

I think he means 400 gigawatts, if thats the case your gonna need some uranium and a nuclear power station. If you want 400hp refer back to zebra's post.

You got jewd. /thread

+1 The only cool way to cruise around geelong is to sell the skyline and get a commonwhore with stockies already fitted to the rear. Don't forget you'd need a big 'the tyre factory' sticker on the front windscreen. With the great ocean road so close it's the best way to enjoy driving rather than criuising around at 50kmh trying to look cool.