Dobz

The journal and cap surfaces should be smooth and have a nice finish, if they all look like that then you're doing ok.

Using an auto your oil pump wouldn't get harmonic vibrartions as bad as a manual so it'll be a less prone to breakage anyway. As for your oil approx. 5-6mm over the full mark should give you about .5L extra.

Overfilling 2L and having a stock sump is definatley contributing to the problem due to excessive oil being churned up by the crank under accelaration. I know there is no pressure that builds up in the sump under normal conditions. On the other hand when you get a lot of oil surge getting churned up by the crank all that oil flying around at high speed does cause some pressure, enough pressure to slow the drainig of oil from the head back to the sump. That explains why it doesn't happen on the dyno because no oil surge= no oil getting sucked up into the catch can. As has already been said... put the catch can to atmosphere and don't overfill the sump so much.

Are you using a stock sump?

I thought we were talking about an rb25 neo here? They use solid lifters.

What if the igniter box is starting to give up? If i were you i'd get the car on a dyno to get a better idea about the power output of the car rather than relying on a road test.

The neo engine uses the same belt setup as the normal rb25.

I remeber a guy from work who is an F1 nut told me that there was case where a team was found out using a flexible rear wing that had a high angle of attack at low speeds but when it hit higher speeds it flexed down and flattened out to cause less drag. He also reckons that Micheal Schumacer would never have won so many championships if it wasn't for his team "pushing the envelope" of what was allowed in the rules regarding fuel loading, engine power, traction control etc.

Drunk and trying to impress his friends in his car= disaster 9 times out of 10. I think learning about driving and the respect for safe driving should start early before they even get to drive a car. The earlier you shape a mind about safe driving the better because leaving it until their teens when they won't listen or think it'll never happen to them is half the problem.

Can you get rid of indecent exposure fines?

That is as good as response will get for the turbo you're running so either sell it and buy something more suited to rb20 like an hks25/30 or get used to lag.

Hmm.... shallow and pedantic. But seriously tighten that belt up quick smart if it's slapping around that bad, the last thing you want is for it to jump teeth.

+1 Parkers has the best steak this side of anywhere! They do charge a pretty penny though.

Just cut the crap and put a merlin v16 out of a spitfire in it! It's different and it'll fry your tires quicker than you can say "get a dog up ya!" No that's what i'm wearing, i had dibs first.

I love watching the british touring cars they're way more entertaining than big lumbering v8 supercars. They're not scared to get knuckle deep in a scrap for positions either because there cars aren't super expensive one off items like the supercars are.

Apart from the lift side of things the stock r34 gtr cams are fairly close to the specs of the stock rb20 cams. Check out this link: factory cam specs Out of those tomei cams i'd definately go the 260/9.25 for the same reason you give. To make full use of anything bigger you'd have to do some porting.

No Ebay feedback please.

Someone just touched themselves for the first time!

I've read an old zoom mag before where they did a back to back test of both manifolds on an rb20 using an hks 25/30 turbo. The rb26 manifold was using the six throttle setup. It showed that the rb26 manifold made more power up at the top end but lost a lot of mid range compared to the stock rb20 manifold. My opinion is the long inlet runners of the stock rb20 manifold create good pulse which helps fill the cylinders more efficiently off boost hence creating more power down low. On the other end the short runner rb26 manifold has weak pulse down low losing mid range but can flow more air at higher rpm creating a gain in top end power. The rb26 manifold would make the setup a lot neater but being an rb20 it needs all the help it can get in the bottom end power side of things and unless you like driving a car that's a slug until it hits boost i would't do it.

Either way if any person from either one of those departments got word of this he'd be toast.

I bet you've written this up on a public dunny wall somewhere too.

Lucky bugger! I tried levering mine off like that and got no where, i think my carrier was machined a bit too far towards the tight side of it's tolerance.

Yes it has to be pressed off and the new one pressed on, no other easy way around it sorry to say.

Holy hat!! That looks like some crap quaility spring steel for it to just snap off like that.

He's talking shit when he says the gearbox might not be strong enough for the motor when referring to your problem. The fact that you jump forward when you try and start the car with the clutch in cleary shows that it's a clutch related problem. Ask to see the clutch plate and pressure plate if he pulls them out.