Dobz

around about 2.5"

That's right but most of them would have stronger drive trains or they'd have a spare gearbox or diff laying in the shed ready for when they break theirs. If you want do it then do it, just have another gearbox and diff lined up beforehand so there's less hassle if you break anything.

+1 for thinking there's something up with that turbo. I had a genuine gt2876 with a .86 rear housing on an stock rb20 once and i was hitting 18psi just before 4500rpm, so an rb25 hitting full boost at 4800rpm with the same turbo doesn't sound right.

I'm pretty sure the de and det blocks are the same strength wise. The only difference i know of is the de has higher compression and softer valve springs. Putting in turbo forged pistons would remedy the high compression side of things and getting some decent aftermarket valve springs suited to turbocharging would be needed.

twenty six

There's no point polishing your intake ports unless you're taking a lot of material out beczuse you're making so much power your ports need the flow. For a street car it's best to keep the cast surface in the intake ports for better fuel economy. The cast surface will hold and spread excess fuel out in the port allowing the air to mix with better before it reaches the cylinder where as a polished port will let any raw fuel puddle and get dragged straight into the cylinder. It's a good idea to clean up and polish the exhaust ports because the easier the exhasut gas can get out the better.

Get the biggest straight through muffler you can fit in the original muffler cavity and put a dump pipe on it. The dump pipe directs a lot of sound down at the ground making it sound more quiet if you stand behind it unlike cannons which blert out sound like a megaphone. It's a good idea to get it tucked up in the original muffler cavity neatly beacause cops love nothing more than seeing a 3" exhaust hanging out on an angle at the back, lookng like it could almost scrape the ground.

^^It's a possibility. Did the clutch work fine when you found it leaking before you changed the slave cylinder? Give it another bleed just for good measure and see if it improves.

A stuffed spigot bush wouldn't do that. Try pumping the clutch all the way to the floor three or four times in quick succession before changing gear and see if this helps.

Just give the cash to me.... justsayin Spend it on adjustable suspension arms, no point lowering your car with coilovers and not be able to set up the alignment properly.

After seeing those photo's i'll say it again... that's sketchy! If that clutch has done about 15-20,000k's as you say those pucks should show a lot more wear than that. I think jim needs to stop stingeing on the quality of the button material he uses.

That's sketchy, how does he keep selling clutches when they do that? Sounds like the material they use for the pucks is too tough causing it to friction weld it's self to the flywheel.

I'm guessing that might be the pivot fork squeeking from no lubrication or is the squeeking in the cabin? Just to rule it out check your clutch pedal bracket to make sure it isn't cracked or broken. If that's intact and working properly then it's probably your clutch that's gone.

I should've asked if your clutch pedal felt any different from before like it's gotten lighter or spongy?

Can you select all the gears when your car is off with your foot off the clutch? You've got to determine if it's a gear selector problem or a clutch disengagement problem before anything.

As the title states i'm after an rb20 coilpack cover in decent condition with the rubber seals along the side intact. Just pm me. Thanks in advance.

Convection? It's ideal to set it up like that but it's not critical because once you turn the engine off the exhaust stops producing heat and everything starts cooling down anyway.

1.2mm is too small for hydraulic lifters with bigger than stock cams. Hyd. lifters need good oil delivery to keep them pumped up and applying enough pressure to keep it following the cam properly. The lifter taps on the cam simply because it can't pump up quick enough to keep contact which also defeats the purpose of having a bigger cam because it won't be able to open as far as it should. That being said 9mm lift cams are starting to stretch what hyd. lifters should do any way. IMO solid lifters would be the way to go.

It doesn't matter which way water flows through the turbo. Your turbo beanie should be ok if it's a reputable brand, from what i've heard it's the quality of the stitching in some cheap brand beanies that's the issue with people saying the stitching burnt and the beanie just fell apart.

I couldn't imagine a gutted cat would make any real diference to afr's. It's probably unlikely your timing belt jumped a tooth unless it hasn't been tightened properly or the tensioner came loose but you could whip the timing cover off and check to make sure. The best way to go if you feel it's down on power from what it was is put it on the dyno.

1:00 person in the red car "i like it up the rear but no one will give it to me... maybe this truck will."

Get your car to operating temp, then ask your mate if it blows a little bit of white smoke when you take off after sitting at idle for at least 15-20 seconds. Did the shop that rebuilt the head put new valve guides in?

First that is a standard head gasket. Second wtf! how the hell does someone forget to put a head bolt in?

A worn clutch won't make it harder to shift gears it'll just slip and make your revs flare out. There is an adjustment on the clutch pedal, you could get under there and wind it out further so the master cylinder gets a bit more push. It would be a good idea to bleed the system even though you see no leaks just to rule it out, that is if adjusting the clutch pedal doesn't do much.

A stuffed throw out bearing wouldn't cause any vibration in the driveline anyway. And yes if the bronze spigot bush has too much clearance between it and the input shaft it will cause vibration by throwing the clutch plate out of balance when it engages. My brothers car had a tempremental vibration that only happened when the clutch was engaged under acceleration and went away when he took his foot off the clutch and smoothly engaged it whilst cruising at speed. Long story short we pulled the gbox and found the spigot bush stuffed, replaced it and fixed the problem.