Dobz

If your spigot bush is shagged the vibration should go away when you put the clutch in whilst travelling at speed.

Someone must make a telescopic magnet small enough to fit down the valve guide. A good trick I was taught was to feed a bunch of the thickest nylon pull starter cord you can get into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole, enough so when you push the piston up to tdc it puts pressure on the valves to hold them up. Just make sure you leave a good length of cord out so you can extract it when you're done.

Sounds like it could be a clutch fork problem, it might have bent a little causing the clutch to not fully disengage when it's all the way to the floor making it hard to shift gears and crunch when you try to engage them at a stand still. The easiest way to check it is to pull your slave cylinder off, pull the push rod out of it and get one made up that is slightly shorter by about 3-4mm or so and re-install it. If your clutch feels normal again after doing that your clutch fork is bent and you need to replace it.

I wonder if they look anything like a genuine turbosmart wastegate and they're just using pictures of genuine wastegates to suck you in. I wonder if turbosmart know about this?

It won't affect fuel mixtures, it'll just make the job of the turbo making boost easier when travelling at speed. You will gain a bit of performance if the new intake is sucking cooler air that it used to.

The clutch plate will never stick to the flywheel unless you wore it down to metal and let it grind against the flywheel enough that they weld together. The slave cylinder is bolted to the ride side of the gearbox, if there is fluid leaking from it then it you need to determine if its the line leaking or the slave cylinder piston seal. Check your clutch fluid level and make sure it hasn't all leaked out.

When you turn on you car the controller will come up with the normal data screen. Click the up arrow three times and it should take you to a screen that says "Opt mix trim", once you're on that screen use the left or right arrow buttons to cycle through the screens until you come to the screen that has "Opt revlim" and the rev limiter value next to it. To adjust it press the red "mode" button once and you should see the number 30 on the screen change to PG, then you can use the up and down arrow buttons to change the rev limiter value. Press the "mode" button again and the PG should turn to 30 again and you're done. The hard limit is one screen across from "revlim" and its called "revcut" and you adjust it the same as above. Set it about 400-500rpm above the rev limiter, the "revlim" function doesn't completly hold revs back it just makes the ignition stumble a bit to warn you to change gears so if you have no sympathy for you engine and hold the boot in you will hit the rev cut.

You don't have to change valve springs using poncams but depending on how old they are it's a good idea to change them. Any upgrade spring will do.

Bee*R limiter is a waste of time because microtech has a soft and hard cut limter, if you don't have a hand controller find someone who does and adjust it.

I gotta get me a cruise liner! All i've got to do is slap some chrome 22's on it and go in the autosalon dyno comp FTW!

An organic clutch will just start slipping, you'll notice when the revs start flaring after the clutch is engaged on full noise. If you notice it start to slip don't hammer it or try doing burnouts because you'll just glaze the clutch faces which if glazed bad enough it will slip so much you'll struggle to move anywhere. If you plan to have 250rwkw and give it a bit of a hard time a cushioned button clutch would be a good idea because it can reliably hold the power you want and has good driveability on the street.

Destroking an rb25 for what ever reason is pointless, planning to use an rb30 head and a carby on it just makes it worse.

An aftermarket crank damper like ross or atp is good for reducing harmonic vibrations that hurt your oil pump.

yeah that thing sounded like a rocket ship at the top end of the track with all that pressure squeezing out the tiny exhaust it had

The only bit worth heat tape wrapping is the section of pipe that travels over the engine into the throttle because that's heat soak central, especially when the crossover pipe runs so close to the exhaust manifold.

Being able to accuratley adjust cam timing between the limits of the vct unit would be almost impossible, it's designed to be either on or off. You'd need a seperate oil system that can be accuratley adjusted as well as some way of measuring the advance/retard of the cam and whether or not that would work is any bodies guess. I pressed an old one apart at work out of curiosity and found it has a piston with a helical cut spline on the outside diameter which mates in to an internal helical spline in the outside housing. When the piston is moved back and forth the helical spline makes the outside housing turn left to right hence advancing and retarding timing. I wish i took some pics before i turfed it, it would help it make more sense. Don't press one apart if it's still needed for use because doing so destroys it enough that it's junk, they're only designed to go together once.

stock valves will work but you will need to run gtr cams or aftermarket cams suited to solid lifters.

What fuel pump?

Yeah you're right, i just look on turbobygarrett.com and all i can say is... my bad

I think you mean comp wheel diameter is 70mm, exducer refers to the exhaust side where the gas exits. That being said their claim that it's a 58 trim is wrong, try something more like a 39 trim. Even though it's probably dirt cheap it's an old style turbo that's probably most suited to a truck and if you did buy it you'd have to adapt your manifolds t3 flange to t4 which would be a prick.

yes

kilowatts get bitches..... your welcome! variable vane turbos are being developed for petrol engines to optimise torque, porsche are already using it with petrol.

It looks like it's only meant for suby's. Do suby's have the sump separated from the crankase because it's a flat 4?

It doesn't line up how?

I also want to know this ^