Dobz

If you're in melbourne dr drift can re-tune a stock rb20 ecu.

Some pisc of the cams and cam journals would be good. What are you doing the measurments on the camshafts and journals with?

You will have to run solid lifters with the gtr cams. As for the crank idea i thought of doing this myself but for the trouble the gains wouldn't be that great adding only an extra 2mm on stroke.

Die grind the bastard! For the grease method to work the bar needs to fit in the bush really neatly so when you fill the hole with grease and hit the bar it acts like a hydraulic ram forcing the bush out.

How many caps are scored and how deep are the score marks?

That's right. I've got a garrett gt2876 on my rb20 and i don't see full boost until about 4500rpm and before that it's just a pig. Looks like it's time for a downsize in turbo or upsize in engine.

Thats how you do it, the only thing i did differently is when bleeding them them instead of pouring oil into the lower lifter body making a bit of a mess and then trying to reasemble an oily lifter i reasssembled them dry and then put them in a flat tray upright and poured oil in until the tops were submerged. You'll see little bubbles start coming out of the cam lube hole on top of each one which means the oil is filling up the lifter, cover them over and leave it for about an hour untill the bubbles have stopped and once they have you can install them.

i'll just meet you half way and go 151 teeth

rb26 main crank journals are 2mm smaller on diameter compared to rb30 so it's anyones guess how you fit rb26 bearings in there. You don't need to do any special trickery to make rb30 blocks hold big hp except get it built properly with quality parts and a good tune.

johnbarry88.... top bloke!

Your lifters are just really gunked up with old oil, they need to be pulled and pulled apart to be cleaned.

If the stitching is burning it's definatley an issue with quality and any reputable company selling them should refund or replace it.

Is it only on start up before oil pressure gets up or does it hang around until the engine is warm?

Just leave it stock, put in a manual gearbox and lock the diff. I've seen stock r31's with coilovers get around the track pretty good, suspension setup is a big part of a good drift car and being your first drift car it would do you a lot more good than just looking for easy power.

Just curious to know how many tooth belt is needed when you have the tensioner pulleys down in their original position? This pic is an example

Does it smell like raw fuel?

It would be a good idea to test the igniter and coil plug in the morning by contact cleaning the coil plug then start it up and check. If it still runs shit clean the igniter plug, start it and doing this in the morning will ensure you've gotten rid of the moisture. It only needs a small spray on the plug and pins to evaporate any moisture, just give the cleaner 20 seconds to fully evaporate before you plug it back in.

Tomei grind their cams at a lobe centre angle that is optimum for their bigger duration to give the right amount of overlap, this allows you to use stock cam pulleys. The HKS cams are ground to standard lobe centre angles, with increased duration the HKS items will be causing too much overlap hence the worse vacuum and the need to dial them in with adjustable cam pulleys.

I'm in the process of doing that now, the only difference is the lobe centre of the rb20 inlet cam is 5 degrees advanced compared to rb25 inlet cam. If you're determine to keep the valve timing rb25 spec you can put an adjustable cam pulley on the inlet and retard it 5 degrees.

The only reason v=power racing was 100ron was because they used ethanol to bump it up, what was bullshit about that is the fact that they sold it for 5c a litre more than the normal v=power 98ron. It dosen't make sense when you see e10 unleaded sell cheaper than regular unleaded. I wish it was still easy to get race fuel for the odd track day but good old emission rules and regulation screwed that.

just put a new set of pads in and see how long they last, if it happens again it's not the pads fault and all out of ideas. Does it pull to one side under heavy braking?

Winding up the boost on a stock r33 gts-t is whats going wrong. They don't mind carrying on even with small psi increases, as far as I know Nissan did this to discourage modifying by making it harder than just winding boost up. Gone are the R32 gts-t days where you could wind them up to 16psi with a decent intercooler and exhaust, providing the turbine wheel didn't spit out off first.

Starts first go, all electrics work, sony head unit, no dints on body, unreg. $700ono pick up only pm if interested thanks, Aaron

Obviously it won't happen every time. What i said earlier was a worst case senario that can happen. And i know using dangerous as a description earlier was a bit much but if you refer it to keeping your car off a wall or off another car it makes more sense.

If you get momentary oil pressure loss under heavy load that's an indication of improper oil system setup. Anyone serious about protecting their engine from oil starvation would get a larger sump, even though it will cost more in oil it's better than starving the engine with a standard sump at high load in mid corner. The shut down option sounds like a dangerous one. Eg. You're comitted to a fast corner entry, you steer in hard to find at mid corner you car shuts down causing you to lose drive and power steering. If the compression lock from loss of power doesn't spin you out the lack of power steering will make it hard to recover.