Dobz

warning light all the way.

There's no way you can diy valve guides properly when as well as the guides neeeding to be honed, the valve seats need to be machined and the valves ground if you want them to seal properly. Surely there is someone that has the equipment to do the job properly that's closer than america.

i swear by castrol edge 10-60 which costs around $75 depending where you get it from

anyone that knows please thanks in advance

as the title says i want 24 gtr solid lifters as long as the tops arent too worn, will pay postage from anywhere in aus. pm if you can hook me up cheers.

They would have needed changing after the dyno tune. Platinum and Iridium plugs do last longer under normal driving conditions compared to copper but they all pretty much degrade as quick as eachother when put through heavy work on a dyno or on the track. Depending on how often you go on the track the best bet is putting a new set of coppers in and let them cop the abuse of the track day, throw them out after and have a dedicated set of street plugs so that you can be confident you're not losing performance to over worked plugs on the street.

That turbo is as about as well matched to an rb20 as a midget is to a sumo. I'm guessing you were bored and had the turbo just lying around and wanted to see how much power an rb20 can take. right? None the less it's good to see someone pushing an rb20 to its limits.

if you think there could be dust in some cylinders you're best taking the head off turning the engine upside down on the stand and washing out the cylinders with carby cleaner. if there's only a small amount of dust that got inside the cam cover you should take the covers off, go somewhere relativley clean out of wind. put the head on a couple of bits of wood to space it off the bench with the cams facing down, then it's a matter of dowsing around the cams and buckets with carby cleaner to wash any dust out that might be there. you'd want at least two cans of carby cleaner if your going to give it a good wash out.

the microtech's come with a base tune that suits the engine it's going on, in your case it will be for a stock RB20det how it's setup from factory eg. stock cooler, injectors etc. your best off keeping the stock injectors in and maxing them out before upgrading otherwise you might be waisting your money on injectors you don't need depending on your turbo setup. to me the best benchmark for starting off with microtech is everything stock apart from a fmic and 3" exhaust and only when say u wanted more power with an upgrade turbo and a bit more boost only then you'd really need to think about upgrading injectors.

if the engine is going to get extended high rpm running and you want to keep the hydraulic lifters you'll need a bigger capacity and baffled sump and you'd need to get all the oil drain galleries drilled bigger. a simple solution is to get solid lifters put in. by the way what oil have you been using in the engine? i forgot to ask what sort of driving was done in those 700 miles that it was fine?

not many people if any would have super charged an rb20 little own any rb engine (except for a couple of rb30e's in vl's maybe) a turbo is the best and most efficient way of making power for your engine. you'd struggle to get over half the performance out of a supercharger over a sensible turbo setup. (nothing too big and laggy) don't get me wrong i don't hate superchargers, theres just no need for them on rb engines

you've put a restrictor on the back oil feed to the head and blocked off your front one completely! there's you problem! you've been starving the whole valve train of oil which would be causing you these problems. the standard oil restrictors in the block for hydraulic lifters are both there to give the lifters enough oil flow to operate properly and have enough for camshaft lubrication. the restrictors are mainly used for engines that have been converted to solid lifters because the head simply doesn't need the extra oil anymore. the type of oil and the condition it's in will affect things too. for instance oils with a low hot temp. viscosity (eg. 10w-40) won't work well if things have been modified to make more power and if the car is driven hard sometimes due to extra heat produced. it's a bit safer for your engines sake you get an oil with a high hot temp. visc. rating like 10w-60.

an aftermarket bov won't allow you to have it atmospheric because vacuum will still be strong enough to open it under normal driving conditions unless you tighten the bov more but then there is no point having a bov if it's too tight to properly vent pressure and cause flutter. when your car is using an AFM its best to keep the bov plumbed back to the intake even if it's aftermarket because you're letting air that the AFM has sensed and added fuel for out of the system causing richness. to put it simply every time you hear the bov vent you would be wasting fuel and your car would not run well.

nah the intake wouldn't affect it. just a question is the stock bov plumbed back into the intake with the new pipe?

like others have already said it sounds like the engine is fuelling up too much i'm guessing the higher you rev the engine then let it drop bak to idle the further it dips below idle speed and hunts up and down, it most likely stalls when the engine is cold. correct? best get the tuner back onto it

so is the car actually idling at 1800 or does the tacho just read 1800? it's not physically possible for the engine rpm to go from 3000 to 4500 in the same gear at the same speed thats just crazyness. it is probably the tacho signal output from the ecu or maybe the tacho itself i'm not exactly sure but it wouldn't be a slipping clutch if the problem happens when the car is idling out of gear aswell. i'm a bit eyed but it'll do

i'd just get an r33 rb26 and build that. The 26 will be able to get up to 500kw and probably cause you a lot less headaches along the way. At least then you can have oil squirters as well which are pretty important if you want help maintain reliability in a high power setup. when pushing the power you want out of a custom 26/30 engine the most important thing you need is someone who has already done it an got big reliable power. they would know about the problems that can arise in these engines at big power numbers. good luck

you might have two springs in your pressure regulating valve on the oil pump. i've noticed in my oil pump that there are two springs in there one is the main spring which controls the pressure and the other one sits inside it and is alot stiffer and a bit shorter than the main one so when its cold or at high revs the main spring compresses and then hits the second stiff spring making the oil pressure skyrocket. the gallery restictors will be contributing as well.

are you sure its a long nose? just because the flats that drive it look long it doesn't mean the pump engages on the whole thing. from the photo even though it was a little fuzzy could make out a kind of blue burn mark on the forward tip of the drive flat which looks like about how far the r32 gtr cranks engage on the oil pump. it's hard to imagine the long nose drive breaking a pump gear unless something was seriously wrong.

RB25's already have all you need with the nvcs system to aid bottom end response by advancing the intake cam up to a certain rpm. adjusting the exhaust side of things doesnt do a great deal for what its worth.

the car will probably run a bit rough if its only a small leak. the bit of rubber gasket won't do anything to your engine if it was sucked in, it would burn up pretty quick.

your best just to put a good oil cooler on it. it's not the bores that cause detonation it's the pistons when they get too hot, hence the reason most of the RB engines have oil squirters spraying the backs of the pistons to soak up the heat. you can lower the water temp if you want, it just means you'll need to downsize the piston diameter to keep the clearances right because the bore isn't going to expand enough for stock clearances at 70 degrees

the bores arent out of round at lower water temp. they just wouldnt have expanded enough to give the piston adequate clearance. the piston/bore clearance is setup according to the water temp. being run

price drop! injectors $120, ecu $80

i need to sell these parts because my tail shaft has shat and my car funds = zip, zero, zilch. six rb25 turbo injectors with stock fuel rail $150 r32 turbo manual ecu $100 can be delivered to any where at buyers expense pm if interested i'm near geelong in vic. thanks Aaron