Dobz

in all fairness you can't really say the kkr turbos are bad. sure they'll work and give you some good performance but the fact of the matter is they won't match the performance and reliability of a gcg bb turbo

i'm guessing the ecu is an aftermarket one and the fuel pump is a stocker. upgrading the fuel system with a better pump, regulator and injectors would be a good idea to make sure the engine has good fuel supply when pushing over 200rwkw because thats about where the stock rb20 fuel system starts to run out. i just rebuilt my rb20 with forged pistons, i cant remember exactly what everything cost but i'v got a fair idea. arias forged pistons 20thou up $1100 machining of the block to suit pistons $550 genuine bearings $250 genuine head gasket $150 genuine head studs $100 aftermarket manifold gaskets etc. ~$60 labor for assembly of engine $150, that was only for the bottom end i put the rest together myself. that seems like a lot but at least you'll have a fresh bottom end that will withstand the mid 200rwkw mark with a bit of abuse. Aaron

sound like your valve stem seals are a bit shagged iv seen the same problem but on a turbo CA18, it would sit there idling for about 4-5min then i could say hi to mr smokey McSmoke and then once you start driving again it will go away. the reason is because when you sit idling for so long with the manifold under max. vacuum the worn stem seals slowly allow oil past them creating white smoke when the engine burns it it goes away because when your driving there isnt enough vacuum to keep sucking oil past the stem seals but having said that you'll know if there completely shagged when the white smoke doesn't go away and the EPA are sending you fines. one good excuse is that your james bond's love child and you had to use the smoke screen to avoid capture by the KGB as for the water in the catch can..... its normal to have water condensation and a little bit of oil in it

awesome! its good to see there are still people up to the challenge of getting an RB20 to make good power rather than just folding and getting an RB25 or 26. I'm in the process of building my RB20 with stronger internals, with all the gear i've got i'll be hitting the 250rwkw mark with more to spare. even though milk and juice only comes in 2 litres, its the fastest milk and juice they've ever seen cheap wine comes in 5 litres for all those holden 5 litre boys keep up the good work

changing the exhaust or the cat won't affect ignition, it might play around with fuel mixtures a bit but the ecu should eventually adjust to correct it. check the plugs and see if theyre fowled up

pics up. the only problem is a bit of plug is broken

r32 5 speed gbox third gear syncro is worn, no shifter $100 six rb20/25/26 igniton coils $70 sold six rb25 injectors and fuel rail $70 rb20 red top turbo very little shaft play $150 rb20 turbo silver top man. ecu $50 near geelong pm or call 0438053849 if intrested thanks

As the title says any info on stock cam specs preferably rb20det and rb26dett engines would be great because i cant find jack all. thanks in advance

it is possible to cut the rb20 runners short and weld brackets on so the gtr manifold will bolt on. its allready proven that you lose a lot of top end power with the gtr manifold with the only improvment being better bottom end power theres no point having an rb if its losing power when your bouncing off the limiter

Two good turbos that will get you a good amount more power with out affecting response too much are: RB25 turbo (non-neo because they are weak turbos using epoxy plastics for the compressor wheel which are known to fly apart when pushed). VG30 roller bearing turbo which are a bit rare to find in good condition. They are both ceramic exh. wheeled which plays a big part in quick spooling up times. Steel exh. wheels are heavier and take more time to get spooling escpecially when the wheels are bigger, inturn creating more lag. It all depends what you want at the end of the day really response over power or power over response

All you're doing when you retard the exh. timing is creating a bit more exaust pressure through the turbo hence the quicker spooling and improved mid-range torque, on the neo engine it will do squat! The only problem with that is if you retard it too much you go backwards in power because the engine is working against itself trying to push exh. gas through an unopened valve. You only really need adjustable cam pulleys when you get aftermarket cams that have a lot more duration than standard so you can finely tune the characteristics of the power band to get the most out of it.

If you're looking to make fairly big power figures i.e. 300kw plus then you'd want to keep the .7 cover for the simple fact that it efficiently flows more air which is whats needed for big power and turbo reliability. Anything under 300kw the .5 cover would be fine but thats pushing it.