Dobz

So it’s high and hard before you turn her on, once she’s turned on it drops half way and softens up? Serious now, have you played around with the pedal adjustment?

ActionDan already had a thread going through this. The collet remover and install tool is nice and easy for stock springs, not so nice and easy for heavy springs. When I put heavier springs in I had to put my body weight over the tool to accurately guide the collets back in.

I’m pretty sure the reference to feeling like a stock clutch is how the take up and engagement feels. It’s more forgiving, not so on/off like some. My coppermix feels a bit heavy underfoot until I start my car and the booster helps out. One way around it is getting the nismo big bore slave, also a clutch and brake shop may be able to bore out and fit a bigger piston in your stocker.

What happens when you don’t push the clutch in and then rev it?

The power steering system is a simple on an r33 because hicas is electrically controlled. R32 is hydraulic hicas off the main power steering so it's a different kettle of fish. There may be some small detail like a seal or hose clamp on a return line allowing a small amount of air in when hot. Has it all been checked for defective hoses, hose clamps and/or seals?

What ecu? Sounds like it could be tune related if it clears up at higher revs.

Pull the trans cooler hose off the radiator and have it pointing into a bucket. Get a slender funnel that jams in the filler tube. Fill up the funnel and start the car to get fluid moving. Keep the funnel topped up and keep an eye on the fluid draining out so you can see when only clean fluid is coming out. When clean fluid is coming out wait until the fluid in the funnel has dropped to the dipstick then shut the car off. Put the cooler hose back on then start the car and check the fluid level. If too high you need to shut off the car, pull the hose again and start for a couple of seconds to spit a bit more fluid out. Check level and repeat of still too full. When the proper fluid level is achieved start the car and select all the gears to check they all engage. Check fluid level one more time then button it up, test drive and you're done. Easy.

They are likely just set at different levels though the oil feed groove difference is a bit odd. Are they both springy or set solid? Holding the lifter between your thumb and second finger with the index finger on top you have to slap it down onto the wood with a bit of force. When you turn it over you will see the plunger will be level with the bottom of the bucket then you can pull it with multi grips. It can make your fingers a bit sore after doing twenty four of them but it's the easiest way i've found.

$3.50

Ok, the car has likely done double that distance and the previous owner/s may not have been so kind on the gearbox. The rb25det gearbox are well built with lack of maintenance and poor driving being a culprit for premature damage. Poor rebuilds are also a factor.

So the box was rebuilt 70,000km ago?

Thats what i'm thinking too trident, the root of the problem needs to be determined first seeing as it happened twice. A shot pressure relief valve would make a horrible sound and cause cavitation bubbles which would slowly destroy the pump. The only thing that makes me unsure about that is it has happened to the previous pump as well and you'd have to be unlucky for the exact same failure to happen on a different pump. Another possibility could be a small vacuum leak on the fluid return line that only pulls air in when hot and at higher engine speeds. You need the mechanic to vacuum test the system for any potential leaks, then put a pressure gauge in to test the relief valve while it is and isn't making noise. If the mechanic you know can't do this then find one that can.

So it goes away when you shut it off, is it just straight off and on again or do you sit for a minute?

I'm guessing it's the exact same noise as last time. Is the steering feel affected when it's making noise?

It would be hard to pin point exactly what went wrong. Being an exhaust valve it has somehow stayed open when it should have been retreating back to its seat. Possibly bouncing badly off the cam when on the limiter with the engine abruptly cutting power whilst manifold back pressure is slowing down the valve closing. A heavier valve spring would help ensure the valve will travel back to the valve seat when it should.

If you pull them out of a head they should be put back in the same place because they set themselves to the correct clearance for the valve. It is possible to put them back in the wrong places and have low compression from valves being held slightly open. If they get mixed up the best way is to dismantle, bleed down and reassemble. Sit them upright submerged in a light engine oil overnight to refill them, then reinstall. Also you can hold them individually upright under oil and push the bottom plunger to speed up the refilling of oil.

How much boost and how hard was the limiter being hit?

Gauging from the last paragraph of your first post, no you don't need a lighter flywheel. It'll just make it less pleasant for you to drive around the streets.

I'll second that gtsboy. Extra inertia is exactly what you don't want on the track. Hill starts yes, high speed driving no. Years ago I had an r31 I put an rb20 in, drove it a while with stock clutch and then swapped to light flywheel (6.5kg) and button clutch. One hell of a difference for smoother shifting at speed but a nightmare for hill starts though the terrible gt2876r wouldn't have helped either.

Put new plugs with the new coil packs and use some dielectric grease on the boots. Once a spark plug has arcing tracks like pictured even new boots will do little to stop an arc jumping across the track. Also check new boots for tracks from arcing.

Great event guys, had a lot of fun. Driving in the wet was great, the only problem was the session wasn't long enough to get a proper feel for it. Does anyone know where to see the photos that were being taken on the track? I forgot to enquire about them before I left.

Rb25neo I'm assuming? I'm not too familiar with the restrictor setup on them but my rb26 is happy with a single 1.3mm restrictor. Is it actually pushing a volume of oil out of the vent or is it just getting wetness from condensation/oil mist?

That second video she was spinning them up in 4th... must've had the boost wound up.

With enough grip to hold a silvia to the ceiling.... I'm surprised they didn't sell quicker.

I'd rather crash my gtr driving hard on the track than sell it to someone who only saw inflating value in it.