Dobz

So the story is some damn fool (me) ordered two of these off fleabay thinking they could be used on my gtr. They were from a seller that cleans and tests them for selling. When the pair arrived I found the flange broken on one from insufficient packing. I contacted the seller then they sent me a free replacement but they didnt pack that one well either and the flange was broken. I have fixed the two broken flanges with high strength epoxy and they are very much serviceable, since the seller gave me a refund for one they only owe me $100 total. In saying that I will sell the repaired ones for $30 each and the unbroken one for $40. Located in Geelong, Vic but can post at buyers expense, just tell me postcode and I can check price. Pm if interested

Everything is gone, mods please delete.

Reduced pedal effort though it will lengthen the pedal throw required to engage/disengage the clutch. For what you have it's not worth it, only handy if you have a really heavy clutch or a button clutch with a very narrow take up point.

That's right nizmo, the clinginess of shockproof means it stays trapped between the syncro ring and the taper on the gear. The sticky, high film strength oil helps the worn syncro get the gear up to shaft speed for a smoother shift. jonilicite, it's hard to imagine shockproof causing good syncros to prematurely wear. Maybe fast shifting of a gearbox with very good syncros using shockproof could cause a problem, the tight syncro clearance would have to force out the sticky shockproof quickly causing possible mechanical stress to the ring.

An old trust manifold I used to have with 6-2-1 design. Don't know if it about performance advantage but it looks good.

After a pair of series 1 r33 headlights in serviceable condition. As long as they mount up alright and have no damage that would render them unroadworthy eg. cracked lense Pm me if you can help.

The lifters won't bleed up solid by just cranking alone, it needs to be started. I don't know what rpm the starter cranks at but it's slow, that's why you see very little oil collecting in the head.

Slip on or hubcentric spacers?

Did a quick search and found this http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372566-top-feed-fuel-rail-to-suit-standard-plenum/ By the look of it the only way is aftermarket, standard size injector won't fit under standard plenum.

sneaky pete, the difference with the otomoto kit is it requires a custom cam and fitting which feeds oil through the length of the cam to the vct. The way I am going to do it will allow me to use whatever aftermarket rb25 neo cam i want. I meant hks v-cam if you can afford it. Being able to tune a constantly variable camshaft would have a big advantage over on/off adjustability.

I'm looking at doing the same thing when I get off my arse. I'm looking at putting the vct straight onto the rb26 head. Using rb25 neo IN cam and vct. I've drawn up a little external solenoid housing that would eliminate the need for it to mount in the head as rb25 neo does. The oil to the vct will replicate the rb25 neo. I've already moved the cam journal lube hole to the side just like the 25 neo, all that's left is to mount a compression fitting atop #1 IN cam cap to feed the vct cam gallery. 3/16 copper pipe can snake to the back of the head using mounting tabs on the cap bolts and it could exit via a hole through the rubber half moon. With how much difference there is with the rb25 neo vct on and off surely there are similar gains to be had with the 26. If you can afford it go V-cam.

Defensive driving test to obtain P's, compulsory defensive driving test at 10 year intervals from there on. Each test is a refresher training in defensive driving and you get three go's at the final test. Get three strikes and you hand back your licence. Display a competence to make quick decisions and handle a car in an emergency situation and you can keep driving on the roads. It's my opinion this sort of testing at least helps people become aware before they put themselves in a stupid situation causing an accident.

Put me down for an r33 gtr frp jun lip.

How much for r33 gtr jun lip in frp?

If another buy is happening i'll be in for a front lip.

That's right, it doesn't matter as long as the locator dowel and timing mark are aligned. So on those pulleys which have two dowel holes you should put the cam dowel in the one aligning with the timing mark. I can't understand why there would be two dowel holes on a pulley anyway, can anyone shed some light on this? Edit: If you think they are copy tomei pulleys your priority should be upgrading the adjuster bolts to grade 8.8 or 12.9 bolts. Some fakes are known for having crap bolts.

Cooling panel fits up nicely, no modification required. Though you just need to bend up the bonnet latch tab a little so you can get your finger under it easier. Sorry about the low light photo.

Or if it is convenient you can find a sandblasting company and get it whipped. Usually very cheap and you get a damn good surface for optimus primer to stick to.

Dreamin'

Your oil pressure seems to be rising up just fine, does the noise go away when you rev the car and then come back as it falls to idle?

Gates have a small sweet spot where you can keep them quiet but still noisy compared to oem. That +3/-3mm measurement was the result of frustrating trial and error on my own gates belt.

That method of a 1/4 turn isn't the most accurate. There are too many variables that can change like hand strength, how you hold the belt when you twist and if you can position yourself to get better leverage on it. The best way I was taught and I feel its the most consistent is to pull the slack of the belt in between the cam pulleys so the rest of the belt is tight. The slack inbetween the pulleys can now be measured. Putting a ruler behind the belt it should only have about 6mm movement, that's +3, -3mm from centre.

It does sound like a humming of the belt teeth but the sound quality makes it hard to distinguish. I've heard a/c idler bearing make the same sort of noise when they're on the way out but you say it's up at the cam pulleys. How tight is the belt?

Ok that clears things up, thanks.

But I was under the impression the solid state relays varied the output voltage to match the input where as an electromagnetic relay input doesn't influence the output it just switches on and off. The input being the switching circuit and the output being the switched. Is that any clearer?