Dobz

Thread revival!!!!! I was thinking about how to retain the fpcm and get better current flow to the fuel pump. I'm no electronics guru but don't the solid state relays switch the output voltage in relation to the input voltage? So if there is a 12v input voltage the output will be 12v and if input rises to 13v then output will then allow 13v etc? If that's the case could the solid state relay input just be the original fuel pump wiring from the fpcm and the output could use direct battery feed for the pump? It is a loose understand of the relay's operation but i'm happy to be schooled if i'm wrong. .

There is an outer bush inside the housing further in past the seal where the yoke sleeves into. As GTRPSI mentioned if there is a wear mark on the yoke follow that and if it lines up with the seal you should be alright.

Not sure on factory tolerances and I cant remember how far in the bush goes which keeps the yoke centred. If you can find out how far in the bush goes then that would give you a good starting point, maybe some wire with a little hook to feel where the back of the bush is and mark the wire to get the length. I would imagine best case would be to have the yoke fully supported by the bush at least.

Compare the springs out of both pumps, I think they use the same springs in each.

mick the pulley is sold. dave the gaskets are sold pending payment. Will pm if the sales fall through.

I do the same as joey when tightening but use 3rd gear because i'm paranoid of breaking something when I feel all the flex through the driveline. With someone on the brakes and the handbrake on I can wrench on the breaker bar with as much as I can give without the car moving. I've done my 2.8 patrol the same way and they seem to be notorious for spitting balancers but 4 years on there's no sign of loosening.

I have nothing but...... kudos

neo cam pulley is gone.

The top line on the little diaphragm goes to maniflod vacuum, the one below goes to throttle body and the bigger is from tank. What's the thinking behind taking out the canister to "tidy up"? Does it cramp your street cred and make you a laughing stock? Apart from doing what it's supposed to which is stop raw fuel vapours getting into the air it actually saves you money. Those fuel vapours aren't just getting wasted, your engine actually burns them to power your car. Magic isn't it? Imagine the money you could save on fines too.

rd28 dipstick pokes in towards the rear of the engine because that's where it holds the oil. It's like a reverse extended rb sump. The rb25 dipstick is just poking into the shallow area of the sump where the oil level sits below when bolted to an rd28

Pics, location? I'll give you $200

All prices are now negotiable, make an offer.

Frank there is a breather hose and a drain back hose. The drain back is the lowest hose.

My opinion is yes you could achieve 300kw with those mods but that is just my opinion. I'm sure there are results in the dyno page from people with similar mods which should give you a good idea of expected power. OR just get the thing on the dyno and find out what it can do. If you have confidence in the person tuning you shouldn't need to ask these questions here.

As has been said get a bigger catch can because 300ml is way too small Also needs one way check valve on the drain back from catch can so oil doesn't pump out of it. As r32-25t said it needs the sump breather to the can well above oil surge level or you are just pumping oil up the breather. And I just saw you have the rear head breather teed to the turbo oil drain. That's not a good idea because you could be causing oil to back up into the turbo drain.

Put me down for a CF cooling panel for r33 gtr.

neo inlet cam sold

Could you please check bncr33-024012. I will thank you for your kind service in advance

Yeah it is a DE head, I shouldn't call it complete. It's missing the breathers, oil cap,cam cover bolts and cas. Vrs kit is complete apart from gasket sealant. I could separate the ex cam from the pair but I may have to charge a little extra. I'm down near Geelong, would you be picking up?

How's that?

Yep the cam pulley is genuine. Unless there are some pretty good counterfeits?

Just set it up on the mark when you put the new belt on. It was probably installed incorrectly in the first place.

Bits and pieces that have been hanging around in the shed. rb25de neo complete head $120 rb25 neo vct cam pulley and vct solenoid $80 rb25 neo crankshaft in very good condition $150 new rb25 genuine vrs kit just missing gasket sealant $180 rb25det neo inlet cam $30 rb25det neo inlet + exhaust cam $60 new tomei adjustable inlet cam pulley, can be used on exhaust too $40 rb25 neo fuel rail $30 rb25 neo lifters, valves, valve springs, retainers and collets $40 rb25 oil pump good condition (only small marks on the drive flats) $100 PM if interested Located in Vic

What is wrong with the bottom end for it to suit rebuild?

I think Honda haven't made another future classic here, it will be a car that just fades into the past due to it's extremely generic look. They just bowed to the norm of aerodynamics today and threw out most traces of the past. There will always be the Honda fanboys loving it though. When the new GTR was first shown off why did everyone get so horned up over it and why has it been so successful?