32GTRB

Price for *R32 GTR/GTST mirror cover *R32 GTR bonnet lip *rb26 coilpack cover

Have u also got the screws for the coil pack cover?

is the blitz intake just the pods?

Update: clutch adjustment seemed to fix it! Don't think the clutch was fully engaging at times due to the way it was adjusted, have noticed today that it seems much easier to drive and doesn't feel like slipping at all. Was very easy to do for those who may be having a similar issue. There are two things which need to be adjusted, the pressure switch (not sure what this does, but assume it tells the car the switch is released when you step on the clutch), and the pedal itself. Adjusting the switch (step 1) 1. Get under the dash where the pedals are, follow the clutch pedal to where it connects to the bracket and you'll see two adjustable threaded bits (technical term), one in front of the pedal (towards the seat) and one behind (which i assume goes into the clutch slave). 2. Loosen the nut in front of the pedal with a 14mm spanner. Doing so allows you to turn the sensor. To adjust, simply rotate the sensor (with the plug on it) which will in turn push the pressure switch at the end in or out. I backed my out so that the threaded bit sat flush against the welded nut on the bracket. 3. tighten the lock nut back up, and now its time to adjust the pedal. Adjusting the pedal. 4. Now that you've adjusted the switch, you want to adjust the pedal so that when its fully released, the rubber bit on the pedal completely pushes the pressure switch in, sitting flush against the lock nut but not any further. This should then give you the optimal clutch setting (correct me if I'm wrong). 5. The process of doing so is pretty much the same as adjusting the sensor, except after loosening the lock up (see 3. on pic below) you want to turn the threaded shaft with some needle nose pliers to move the pedal. You'll notice the rubber bit (see "rubber bit" on pic) moving backwards or forwards as you do this. 6. Simply turn the threaded shaft appropriately so that when fully released, it sits flush against the lock nut (2) without any additional pressure being applied. Once you have it flush, tighten up the lock up (you may want to hold onto the gold bracket at the end of the threaded shaft while tightening in case the bracket bends as it turns when you tighten the nut). And a pic for reference

had a look and adjusted the clutch. Bracket seems fine. I adjusted the clutch so that when the clutch is fully released, it sits flush against the sensor. This should also be the max bottom adjustment possible (correct me if I'm wrong). Will test out the car tomorrow, there was only a little bit of adjustment needed to make it sit flush.

its fairly high but does not disengage on a slight push. I have noted that it doesn't seem to bite at the same spot on occasion, thinking it might very well be the adjustment/fluid?

not sure as i bought the car with the clutch in it. Have been told its an excedy hd. could possibly be a twin plate as its very bitey. thinking i'll flush out the fluid with some new rbf600 and then see if it keeps doing it.

sounds like you're bleeding them in reverse. should be bleeding from furthest point from the bmc to the closest

Nope its quite high.

Just noticed that redline recommends 80w140 for the rear diff and lightweight for the front diff. Anyone had any issues with this set up? http://www.redlineoil.com.au/oil-finder-detail.asp?CategoryID=3642&ProductID=7592

Anyone experienced a similar issue to mine? R32 GTR with standard box and exedy HD clutch. Car is making 300awkw. My clutch isn't slipping when under WOT under load, but has problems grabbing after riding it a little (usually after going up my driveway which is painfully steep, although not too long). Is this a sign of a worn clutch or could it simply be the fluid needing replacement? It happens pretty quickly even after riding it only a little. Anyway to tell for certain? The reservoir is at the max line and fluid looks ok. cheers,j

Thanks for the help mate, glad some people on here are still interested in providing useful advice. Cant actually change my profile for some reason, but yes it is a rb26

lol had to get people to look somehow. i know where the standard gauge source is/should be, but now got me stumped on how the boost controller etc has been set up.

In that case should it be plugged it into the open pipe? I'll have to check where the wastegate is getting its feed from. I've also found what seems like another two open pipes closer to the oil filter, in the middle under the intake manifold, have no idea what these are for either and what should be plugged into them (if anything).

hi guys, have an aftermarket boost gauge fitted and its not working so I want to pull it out. I've followed the vac line off the gauge sender to under the manifold in front of the drivers side. Its currently plugged into a nipple which seems to be giving off a little pressure (no vac). Not sure if this is like a breather or what should actually be plugged into it. I also have the standard gauge which is working fine. Anyone know what the nipple on the left is, and whether I can just remove the vac line and leave it open? Cheers, John

I ran these on my 350z when I had them. Thought they were a great tyre for the price.

Howdy all, have noticed that when my gtr is started from cold, the front torque gauge goes crazy. I've seen it go well past the "50" on the gauge and also it seems to rest above 0. This usually happens until the oil temp warms up to about 73ish, with the gauge returning back to normal. I have an extremeTSC which seems to be working, not sure if anyone else has encountered this issue before? Is it possible there is too much pressure when cold causing the attessa pump to work overtime? If so any possible remedies to fix?

awesome think that might be why. Thanks for posting up the photo too!

bumping an old post but the 32 I just picked up has an extreme TSC installed. Is it true that it disables the front ABS? I have seen the ABS light come on but it was only when I flicked the switch over to 2wd (without turning the car off, which I now realised needs to be done to change between 4wd/2wd).

+1

does your water temp gauge light up too? i did get wide angle type leds but maybe i need to readjust them as at the moment the water temp gauge is not lit up.

Hi all, i've got a nismo cluster in my 32, was changing the bulbs in it to LEDs (old ones were busted) but noticed that there is no LED for the water temp gauge in the cluster. Thought this was a bit strange but thinking maybe I just haven't changed all the bulbs? Also does anyone know the size of the tiny leds which sit where the 0's are on the speedo/tach. Its a different bulb size to the others (which are T10/T5)

What oil would be best for a gtr32 with a built motor? Previous owner was running Shell 10w40 semi synth with changes every ~8000KMs. Car is mostly street driven with the occasional midnight run (only driven couple times a wek). Is a semi synth and 10w40 ok? Recommended mobil is 5w30 thoig for a standard motor

Just picked up a 32gtr, looking to do the engine, gearbox and diff oils pretty soon. leaning towards smurfsblood for the gearbox (crunching into 5th also when shifting at speed), but not sure whether it is appropriate to run the same oil for the front/rear diffs. Also is 10w40 semi synth ok for a rebuilt motor? oil will be changed every 7500kms and primarily street use.

Sorry gents I've snapped this one up!