limpus

If you get the correct low mount turbo with the correct flange then everything else will bolt up...ie T3 flanged 2530/2535/2540/gt-rs and the like...

It has been well documented too that 15psi on a rb25 turbo is a bad idea...even on a rb20...it will still be shortening the life of the turbo...if it runs 15psi but only reaches max boost during the occasional squirt then it might be ok...but hold it on full boost for a few laps on a track and see what happens...

They are not the same...its has already been documented...first of all...its years older than the standard t28s we get on the sr20s...secondly...just because a t28 rebuild kit can be used does not mean its a t28...

If the clutch is a new standard clutch...then yes...but why would you put a new standard clutch in...

Rb25 turbos are BB...and ceramic...

Got a GTR grill? Pm me with price if so...cheers...

PM sent regarding gauges...

Having a 2535 myself i would say its a good thing...but funnily enough i was thinking of going with the apexi turbo with the rebuilt engine... From the results i've seen on here they seem to be pretty similar...the 2525 is rated at 340ps from memory...but it probably makes abit more than that...personally i'd take some time and just pick the one which is in better nick...

Nice result...not far off Troy's results...seems like the TD06 and the rb20 makes for a very potent combination...have you got the dyno sheet with the boost response? when do you hit max boost? and how bad is the boost creep?

^^^ That definitely helps but once the car squats you're just gonna have negative camber again...but less of it...

It will be driveable...and it will be VERY responsive...but power will be down a fair bit...on a rb20 when upgrading to a rb25 turbo we see gains of around 20+rwkw...so in your case probably factor in a loss of around that amount...

^^^ Oakleigh Mechanical Repairs are convenient for SE people...but beware...i'm not going to elaborate...Paul tried to rip me several times and i only ended up going there because he's close to where I live... Think of it as a Public Service Announcement...he has decent stuff but don't get ripped off...

There are a few guys here that have rb24s...but the general public is still unconvinced about it...it will never be as torquey as a standard rb25 but its a fair improvement over a standard 20...it is however going to be much tougher and more reliable than a standard rb25...a rebuilt and forged 25 again will probably sh!t all over it...to each his own in the end...

Is it me or are you guys extremely tolerant all of a sudden...i think Ash should lock this thread and make this guy learn to search and read...

Have you sold it yet? Where'd u get the plumback attachement from? Any chance you wanna sell it seperately? Cheers...

Too many factors mate...suspension setup as said...then tyre choice and width...and also...the power delivery...with light switch type of power delivery you can definitely expect the back to let go...

Lolz...glad to see someones picked up on it... Back to the topic...like i said...if you want to drift like everyone else...don't even go the gt35...and 740cc injectors are overkill as well if you aren't pushing big numbers...

I think the first thing you should do is get a boost gauge to see how much boost you are running...regardless of whatever amount of boost they say the car is running... That said right...the way a car feels can be deceiving...the comment you made about your car feeling slower than your mates R32 is kinda similar to how i felt when i went from driving my 210rwkw R32 to a mates 240rwkw R34...the way the power is delivered all makes the difference...but i can confirm that his car was definitely making alot more power...its just that it came on so smoothly that it made it feel not as quick...

Why would you even bother with the Q45 afm? stick with the Z32 and all your troubles are gone...and as mentioned...the z32 gives better resolution for tuning...and the extra size of the Q45 makes SFA difference...

I am about to head down a similar path with a spare rb20 i was given...only in my case i will be using a rb25 crank and rods with the 4agze pistons...i know gains are minimal...i'm only doing it as an experiment/exercise and also because i have a free engine...

Why go through all that trouble to change housings...even if it can be done... You want to drift like everyone else...just get a highflow...it will make enough power and keep you happy...

I am one of those unlucky people that had purchased a similar dodgy kit from a clueless sponsor...i also had to cut a fair bit from my fan blades to get it to fit...for my car it was fine and the trimmed blades didn't affect anything...although you have to make sure the blades are trimmed properly...

Normally i'd say go for the smaller housing but as of late i'm more inclined to say since its going to be gutless down low you might as well make sure it screams up high...but as mentioned it boils down to what you want from the car...

I run NGK BCPR6E in my car...same as the BCPR6ES except that it has a V groove in it...rb20det...19psi...237rwkw...

Ok...quick update...the spare engine is about to be stripped down and checked...in the meantime...i already have a rb25 crank and a set of rb25 rods to be used as well...pistons will be standard forged 4agze pistons...if it all works i should end up with a 2.2L capacity from the larger bore and slightly longer stroke...