limpus

If the GTR pump is 18 years old then it might soon start suffering from the same problem...even though its rated to flow more...with the price of warlbro and bosch pumps nowadays its probably better to go that path...

All depends on what you are after...mods are never ending...trust us...we all know that far too well... First step...change the fuel pump...as mentioned...a 18 year old pump is as good as dead and i can almost guarantee that it will be leaning out under heavy load...

Work with what you have... Just use the turbotech to raise your boost to the desired level while using the adjustable actuator to control spiking or increase response... I run the exact same setup with the same turbo on my rb20...works a treat...

Why does a ferrari V8 not sound like a bogan V8 then? it doesn't rev to 19000rpm like the F1 engines...

As mentioned...the aerospeed cam gears and another brand from memory have A and R the wrong way round...

From the photos seen and the youtube videos alone...its enough for me...

Not to mention that there is a much higher possibility that the right parts will be used...

LFA ALL THE WAY!!! It'll be a dream to have that soundtrack any day...and it ain't slow either...if that 7.24min lap round the ring is anything to go by...

Firstly...you do know that you need 2 of them right? Secondly...there are bolt on garrett replacements for the rb26dett...they're called 2860s and are meant for the rb26dett...search the GTR turbo upgrade thread...

Nothing wrong with a remap...lots of guys here run remaps with great results...and you're in Melbourne too so you can go to Dr Drift...only problem with a remap is that you do not have a wide range of tuners to go to...

The nipple just allows you to take a boost/vacuum feed from the piping...its usually hooked up in line with boost controller or the wastegate actuator on the turbo... You can install the thing yourself...just go to Pirtek/Enzed or any other fluid transfer specialist and buy a nipple with a tapered screw thread...then just drill a hole on the piping wherever you want the nipple to be...wrap teflon tape round the thread and screw it on...its usually fine like this but i usually use some exhaust putty or silicon on it as well for added security... Good luck...

^^^ Not any more than a properly tuned PFC...i'm all for remaps mate but since you have a PFC just stick with it...

A remap will be fine for his setup...which is similar to mine...but since he has a power FC then he should just stick with it...makes no sense to change it....

Holy SH!T...now that is a soundtrack!!! imagine having that on the road...and letting it rip in a tunnel with the windows down...

I'd go for a remap too...just make sure you go to someone who knows what they're doing...tonnes of guys here have gotten great results with remaps on their rb20s...only drawback is that it limits your choice of tuners...if cash is no issue then maybe a PFC can be considered too...

These still available?

Its ok mate...disrespect him all you want...he's used to it...

No one is going to tell you the difference because it does not matter...they have said before: BCPR6ES Or just to confuse you and give you a harder time...you can also use: BCPR6E

It might not actually be "dropping" boost like you think...its probably set to run 12psi and its spiking to 15psi...try lengthening the rod and then upping the boost via the boost controller...although bear in mind that a slight spike is normal as it is a mechanical system and it needs time to stabilize...

Yes i've heard an rb20 with straight pipes and no mufflers...did it once to my car at the track...glorious sound!!!

RedDrifter is pretty much spot on...just keep shortening the rod...you will find that as you shorten the rod boost response improves...it will reach a point when it will be optimum and shortening the rod more will cause boost to spike...from there you can raise your boost further by using a boost controller...while shortening the rod more will give a higher max boost...it will probably start to spike more too...plus what you really want is for the wastegate flap to stay shut till you reach your desired boost level which won't be the case if you continue shortening the rod as the flap will start to creep open at some point... I'd be more inclined to adjust the length of the rod till you get good boost response without spiking...then raise the boost with a boost controller...

It surprises me how much dribble can come from some people...go back into your hole and stop giving wrong advice... heat stroke? on a car? the term is heat soak...and a bad batch of fuel would hardly contribute to heat soak...it might cause detonation...but not heat soak in the fmic... Next...why is the safc useless at this point...will it be more useful down the road with lets say a bigger turbo and more mods? An safc does not add power and just unlocks power potential yeah? so an aftermarket ecu adds power then? And as for that stupid comment about how a car with a fmic and more boost will produce more power...how much more boost can he safely wind into the stock turbo? and while an fmic will give some power...a tune with an SAFC or better a remap (which is less than $1000) will give more power everywhere across the rev range...more boost you say...whats stopping him from winding in 12psi into the car with the 34 smic and tune it with an safc or some sort of engine management... Know what you're on about before you say anything...

Lolz...let me rephrase... In this case...it'd be the first thing i'd do...he already has an exhaust...and a 34smic...he also said he wanted to "feel" the difference...and if thats the case an safc or a better form of engine management would give the biggest gain in power and driveability...don't you think so?

How much power are you getting from the AX53B70 again? Was around 220rwkw yeah? If so that sounds alittle low especially with mods you have like cams and headwork and a 2.2L...i think guys have pushed numbers close to the mid 200s...i could be wrong though...but if thats true...then that sounds like there are definitlely issues or restrictions in your system that should be sorted out... I had a look at your dyno graph and you're making less power with the same response as my 2535...the AX53B70 is rated higher than the 2535...plus you have headwork and a 2.2L...it probably shows that theres a fair bit more to be had from your setup... If you do want to upgrade though...i think a 2835 or maybe a td06 with 8cm housing would be the go for around 250+ rwkw...i'm starting a hybrid rb22 build too and might consider a turbo upgrade too at the same time as my 2535 might be getting alittle tired...and if so i'll probably go with the 2835...

As stated...the factory oil pressure gauge is notorious for being inaccurate...get a proper gauge or learn to ignore it...mine has never read right since i bought the car...