limpus

I have had good results with the magnaflow ones too...i'd be inclined to go magnaflow over xforce...and recently the metalcats seem to be having a bad rep due to it collapsing...hasn't happened with mine but i'll monitor it... $250 for a 4" one seems decent...

I'd be willing to pay $65 to run there on friday nights if there was less than 20 cars there...previously whenever i went to calder i got between 3-6 runs on the night itself...whereas went i went recently in December...i got a total of 20 runs on the night...and that was with half an hour breaks in between every 5 runs or so...the way i look at it...$50 for 3-6 runs or $65 for 15-20 runs...it kinda speaks for itself...

^^^ I can see your intention in taking on your mate...abit of friendly rivalry is always good and for whatever reasons they are yours and we can't fault you... However...the discussion here is about a fmic on a stockish application...and the facts are that a fmic is beneficial for the fact that it cools the charge and it flows better than the stock smic...while a smic might support pretty good power...wouldn't it be better to support that kind of power with a larger element of safety which an fmic gives? and even on a stockish application...a larger element of safety would still be beneficial...and with the added advantage of slightly more power...

Pic now up!!

If your turbo kit comes with a new intake pipe then thats where your problem could potentially be...other than that like nismoid said...it can be made to work...i wouldn't worry about the adaptor first...get everything together then see what needs to be done...its nothing abit of backyard ingenuity can't fix...

Well...in your research have you tried it for yourself? an fmic does add more power if not for the fact that the charge air is cooler and denser then also because it flows better than the restrictve stock smic... Even on a stockish car there would be a slight increase in performace with the addition of just an fmic...and without even touching the boost... On a side note...alex r33s2gts25t...i could be wrong but doesn't a r34 smic need some modifications to the inlet/outlets for it to fit? I remember reading somewhere that it was the case with fitting to r32s but it might not be the case for r33s...

Some members claim that xforce cats are good...and i have no reason to doubt them...but personally i steer clear from them... I had one on my R32 Gtst with a HKS2535 and after tune i only got 200rwkw...that was really low and my tuner and i were scratching our heads trying to find the cause of the low power...a restrictive cat was a possible cause...i decided to go for it and shelled out $400 for a Metal cat...immediately the difference was noticeable with boost coming on much earlier and harder...a retune and run on the dyno saw a decent power increase with power rising from 200 to 215rwkw with just the change of the cat and a retune...midrange also improved tremendously...obviously the power gain was also due the the fact that my tuner could dial in alot more ignition timing due to the reduced restriction in the exhaust...but it proved that in my case the xforce cat was crap... Take what you will from this but i hope it is reason enough to pass on the xforce cat...and as for the dump pipe...yes there will be a noticeable increase so if you don't have one already then go for it...

Bump!!! Price drop $150!!!

Hi Guys, I've got a pair of R32 GTST rear pods for sale...its fibreglass and already coated in primer ready to be painted in whatever colour you want...i have trial fitted them and they fit any R32 gtst rear bar perfectly...asking for $80 ono...located in Melbourne SE Suburbs but will send interstate at buyers expense...Please PM me if you're interested...cheers...

Errrrrm....yeah right...as if a fmic is going to lean the AFRs out too much...

When i got my car 2 years ago it already came with a catback...and the i actually went fmic before any other mods solely because its more of a support/safety mod before i went to any power mods...especially with the blistering summer temps now i think its a good idea...

I have to disagree with that slightly...the only trouble with remapping an ecu is that there are very few tuners around who can do it...that is all... Even with a remap...after mods are added you can always visit the same tuner to get the ecu remapped the suit the new mods...its basically the same as retuning with any aftermarket ecu...just that the old chip is binned and a new one put in....

HKS BOVs aren't really made for sound and need more boost to get a nice fluttering sound? that is a fact? Have a look at that sentence and see if it makes sense...just goes to show how clueless you are on this matter...when you are not venting enough boost pressure...thats when you get that prolonged fluttering through the bov...when you are venting enough pressure the ssqv opens and gives a proper high pitched squeal...now....that is a fact... But if you insist on this train of thought...then i shan't argue...its up to people to believe what they read...

Pointless unless you're chasing big power in excess of 260rwkw...the stock plenums have supported up to that amount...have a search...

Thats utter BS...i have fitted used SSQVs on many cars over the years from WRXs to Silvias to Skylines...and you do not need to run high boost to get them to vent properly...its all about adjusting the bov correctly...unless you have the new ones which can't be adjusted...in which case too bad...adjusted loosely...you can get them to vent with very low positive boost pressure...and they can still sound good...on my silvia and on my 32...with different ssqvs...i could still get the bov to vent and have it sound good just by free revving the engine in neutral...but obviously under load you get higher boost and its louder... Andy95'33GTR...i have some across some SSQVs in the past that became slightly sticky due to excessive oil and dirt inside which in turn prevented them from opening and venting smoothly at low boost...it could be the case with yours...perhaps take it apart and give it a good clean...

Its highly likely its the turbo manifold gasket...have a look...

It should go on...and give you the sound you want...and it will probably not stall if its working properly... Now...can we close this thread and move on?

I will vouch for the condition of this car...the engine has had too easy a life at the hands of this guy...someone buy it and drive it properly please...lolz...

Hey Roy...any chance i can get one of those pipes too? PM me if so...cheers...

Isn't anyone here bored with all this crap yet...just close the damn thread and let the clueless people do whatever they want...

You do not necessarily need to set the HKS actuator to as low as possible...i would use it to help control the spiking...if your boost is spiking too much then it would help to lengthen the actuator arm slightly...and if boost response is slow...then i would shorten the arm slightly as it probably shows its opening too soon...its a finicky process but once set about right then you're ready to use a boost controller of some sort to raise the boost...that way you'll get better boost control... On a side note...i run the same turbo (HKS2535 on my rb20 and t makes about 220rwkw)...your peak power is definitely higher but i noticed that your power starts to climb alittle slower than mine even though mine's an rb20...not saying that anythings wrong but it might be worth looking into...something might be holding it back perhaps...

With the HKS adjustable actuators i think the lowest you can go is around 14psi...from there you can use a boost controller to raise the boost...remember...you want to keep the wastegate shut while you build boost to the required level before it opens...thats where the response and surge of midrange comes from... At 18psi peak boost for example a car will make the same power but if you hold the wastegate shut till max boost you build boost quicker and hence fatten up the midrange...its all about area under the curve...

Unfortunately its a metal on metal squeal...thanks... Keep them coming people...

Good day fellas, About a week ago a high pitched squealing/grinding sound developed on the LHF of my car while driving...basically any speed above walking speed and the sound starts...being warned of a shot wheel bearing just 2 days earlier...i proceeded to change the bearing but it didn't help...i have checked the metal brake shields to make sure nothing is contacting but can't find anything...i got a brake place to check the brakes and rotors and they couldn't find anything wrong too... I'm now officially stumped...has anyone here ever experienced anything remotely similar to this? i'm open to anything now...the sound is so loud that it can be heard in the cabin too...cheers...

Quite a few decent cats in the market...a 3-4" metalcat or catco one should do fine...