limpus

1989 R32 Gtst Rb20det 210rwkw @ 18psi 13.06 seconds at 108mph...hankook rs2 street rubber... Run at Calder on 30/11/07...

How much? Is it a thin layer or is it pooling in all the piping? Thin layer is blowby and its normal... If its pooling then its more likely a blown seal on the turbo...

Had good experiences with Catco and Metalcats...although with abit of searching you'll get it for a better price than that which you posted...

Seeing as the 2535 isn't made anymore and just about every item you'll find will be 2nd hand...i'd go the GT-RS...you will hit your power goals with that turbo...its also newer technology compared to the "dinosaur" 2535...that said...i run a 2535 on my rb20 and i think its a great unit...can't imagine how much better a gt-rs will be...on a rb25 especially...

This turbo or a gt-rs would be my turbo of choice for a streetable rb25...have seen one on a rb25 make 238rwkw at just under 17psi...with a very fat curve...and it wasn't a happy dyno too...the 2530kai was as responsive as the stockie and its not even boosted high enough yet in my opinion...i'd run these things up to 20-22psi if it were up to me...

Well...best way is to swap the loom if it indeed is the loom...for me i just pushed the connector in properly and held it in place with wire...looking for another loom now...

Well...it might not be the case for you but it certainly was for me...after spending money on new coilpacks and a used ignitor i would still have that problem...then one day while it was happening i decided to unplug each coil one by one and found the dodgy connector on my loom...

Then i'd look at the coilpack and harness and ignitor as well first...because i went through the same problem...and it turned out to be a dodgy coilpack connector...

If you get the correct 2510 for RB engines...everything bolts up...

So many things could be causing it...main culprits are usually the coilpacks...ignitor...coilpack loom...then there are other possible causes like the CAS and so on...when the other engine went in...d you re-use any bits off the old engine?

As mentioned...i'm keen on the coilpack loom if you are willing to seperate...cheers...

A highflow rb25 turbo would have similar boost response or just marginally poorer boost response on a rb20...almost unnoticeable... Although...if ultimate response with a slight power increase with good reliability is what you want...it might be worth looking for a hks 2510 as well...you're not going to get a more responsive turbo than that...albeit with slightly less peak power again...its all a trade off...but the difference might not be as big as you think...maybe have pushed 200rwkw from those little things before...

^^ Even if the smallest part of the exhaust is the outlet of the HKS dump pipe? I did some checking and even the larger internal wastegate turbos from hks like the GT-RS and the 2835 use the same dump pipe design with a relatively small outlet on the dump...

Hey fellas, Need some feedback and information from you guys...I recently had a small hit under my car from a damn rock on the road and it dented my 3" front pipe in a fair bit hence causing a restriction...being pedantic i swapped it over to a 2.75" front pipe i had sitting in the garage...initial feeling with normal driving after doing that is that response and power did not seem to be affected...however...when opening the taps to 1.2 bar it does seem to be a tad slower... Would going from a 3" to 2.75" front pipe make a difference...anyone have any experience in a situation like that? car is a rb20 R32 running a HKS2535 with all the usual support mods...i have noticed that the outlet of the original HKS dump pipe that came with the turbo is smaller at around 2.5-2.75" too...if that is the case...would it mean that the 2.75" front pipe i have bolted onto the dump won't be causing a restriction as exhaust gases get cooler after the turbo anyway and hence reduces in volume? i know the hot weather as of late would be affecting power too and perhaps i'm being paranoid...hence i'm asking for any sort of feedback or info so i can get my mind around it...

Nice turbo mate...its gonna be awesome once its in the car... Quick question...what is the diameter of the outlet on the back of the HKS dump pipe? Cheers....

What mag is this? Is it some article on rb20s? sounds like a good read...

Have you got pics of the mirrors? I'm very interested to see [email protected]...

Item: 3" Catback Exhaust (with cannon muffler) for R32 GTST Age: 2 years Condition: Excellent Price: $200 ONO To Fit: (What car) R32 GTST Location: Melbourne SE Suburbs Contact: PM me Comments: 3" catback with round resonator welded in...pipes are mild steel and muffler is stainless with a 5" tip...it gives a nice deep exhaust note and it is not droney...

Peak power might only rise a couple of kilowatts if it does...adjustment of the cam gears might allow you to shift your powerband around slightly...alot of people recon its abit of a hit or miss with cam gears but it can't hurt to try...

What car used this version of the 2JZ? i thought only the Supras and Aristos came out with 2JZs and they both ran sequential twins...didn't know there was a single turbo 2JZ from factory...can anyone confirm this?

They are not as bad as you think as in stock form they turn out more torque than the earlier rb26detts although they have 1 less turbo and 0.1L less displacement... Although i'm interested to know...when it peaked at 5500rpm...how much power was it making? Because the r33 stock turbos also peak soon after that point...if the chaser turbo makes power regardless then it probably isn't a crap turbo...its just not viable for us...

^^^ Agreed...if a catch can keeps filling up then there is something more serious going on... However...if for some reason you are getting some blow by and it is being ingested into the engine...then it might cause detonation...with a catch can in place...you will not get any performance gain at all...however...if you stop the blow by from being ingested...your detonation threshold might go up and you might be able to run more timing...hence getting a performance gain...the gain is not from fitting the catch can...but its from the catch can doing its thing hence allowing more timing to be added...

Oil vapour being injested can cause detonation...so if you can somehow reduce the amount injested by using a catch can or similar why wouldn't you...its not limited to high power cars...and its got nothing to do with lowered maintenance intervals...but with almost any mod...its not necessary...

Thats weird...sam set mine to +3 on inlet and -6 on exhaust...wonder what difference that makes....

What size are the G3s?