limpus

Hey mate...i see you have the ignition loom for sale...what colour are the connectors that go into the coilpacks what condition are the connectors in? Cheers...

If 2 filters would double the air then why stop at 2? whack 4 on then?

Rb20 Ignitor? If so how much? Cheers...

What a stupid comment...if you are skilled enough and drive it the way its meant to be driven...a car with the abovementioned turbos won't wrap itself round a pole...and again...how much was your car putting out when you wrapped it round another car?

50rwkw more at 90km/h...thats a HUGE improvement!!! can we see the dyno graphs when you get them? would be very very interesting...cheers...

How many millimeters of preload do yu guys dial into your adjustable acutators? i've got about 4-5 mm on mine but am getting abit of wastegate rattle...so i was thinking of shortening the rod more but was afraid of shortening it too much... Also...although you can control peak boost with the adjustable actuator...you will most likely find that adjusting the boost through a proper boost controller (ebc or maybe a turbotech) will give you heaps more midrange because it holds the wastegate flap shut till the desired boost is acheived whereas the adjustable actuator will somehow still open slightly allowing exhaust gasses to leak through while building boost....

More like the fan clutch has packed up...not the fan itself...

Lolz...that made me laugh... But seriously...are they the same? Judging by the picture in the link below it looks different... Whiteline

Hi guys...i know this is a very vague question but i'm just looking for some rough answers here... I was looking at buying a set of rear upper arm offset bushes to dial out some negative camber at the back of my R32 gtst...i know the whiteline bushes allow 0.5 degrees of adjustment but these look different to the whiteline ones...does anyone here use bushes like the ones in the link below? If so how much adjustment have you got out of them? Cheers... Bushes

Hey Mafia, Since you have mentioned several times that you are using the stock bov with your 300+rwkw car...I have a proper technical question for you...pushing that much air through it all...what size of plumback piping are you using? still the standard diameter and hose that came with the car?

THe SSQVs utilize a pull type design so they don't leak on boost...however i have heard the latest model SSQVs do not have an adjustment screw so some of them have been known to leak on idle...so if you wanna get one...just stay away from the latest ones...i've never had a problem with any of the 3 SSQVs i've had on any of my previous cars...

The PFC is not your only choice...for a mildly modded rb20 like yours...my choice would be a remap...it narrows your choice of tuners but honestly...how many times do you need to tune the car? Then there are heaps of other options around as well...have a search...it will shed some light on this for you... As for gains...any sort of aftermarket ecu or piggyback will give some very noticeable gains...as long as the tuner knows what he's doing...

Well...the idea on its own is not a bad one...if you're after 180-200rwkw reliably then a t28 off a s15 would not be a bad idea...although it would take some custom work to get it on due to the different flange and alignment of the housings...it will probably make the same power as a rb25 turbo on a rb20...plus side over the rb25 turbo is that you can run up to about 16psi reliably and not spit the exhaust wheel out... You have mentioned you have a gcg highflow on your car...in this case then...the t28 will be a stepdown in terms of peak power but you'll gain some response...although...no matter how small you turbo is the rb20 is still far from responsive...for the money involved in getting a t28 on...i'd get a remap for your car and bump the boost up (16-18psi) so that when you do get on boost it makes it worthwhile...

Ditto to that...the guy made an effort to hide an atmo BOV and was posting up the results...why have a go at him?

Glad to know at least a few other people have had similar experiences...the difference to me was noticeable even though i had a slightly restrictive resonator put on at the same time...not to say the Xforce cats are bad...but when chasing bigger power it makes sense to get the highest flowing item on there...then again...we could always decat the thing but thats illegal so i won't suggest it...lolz...

I see where you're coming from too mate...the thing about my Xforce cat is...the guy who took it off asked me why i was changing it because it was in perfect nick and apparently a "high flowing" item as well...even without a retune i immediately noticed a increase in midrange and the car came on boost so much quicker...so in my case...even though the old cat was in perfect nick...the metalcat still made a noticeable difference...i personally wish i didn't have to spend almost $400 for the metalcat but at least it was worth it in my case...

Here is the dyno graph as proof...final power was alittle more because boost was turned up even more after the initial 211rwkw run... Now...fair enough the concrete visible power gain came from the tune...but i did immediately notice a gain in midrange after the new cat...and that was with a large resonator put in at the same time...as for being able to dial in more timing...well...thats the thing...we couldn't...it would just start detonating...we were scratching our heads on this one for awhile...and i bit the bullet and changed the cat as i was suspicious of it all along...anyway...take what you will from this...i'm just saying that its not that inconceivable...and i know i'm convinced...

I actually went from an X-force cat to a metalcat and i got a fair power increase at the same boost level after a tune...202rwkw to 211rwkw...its all because my tuner was able to dial in about 4 more degrees of ignition timing with the better flowing metalcat...if its bothering you just upgrade it...it won't be a downgrade anyway....

Damn Troy...thats a bitch...i hate it when little things like that ruin what would be a great day...what did you do to fix the tank? On a different note...the bilsteins i bought off ya are great...went down to DECA 2 weeks ago and they performed faultlessly...engine ran great too...then i found a coolant leak...and then the ignitor started playing up...oh well...its the price we pay for driving an older car... Good luck with sorting out your car hassles...

I'd like to see pics too if you can get some...

Good day fellas, I've got a problem on my R32 GTST that i was hoping someone could help me with...i just did a track day and after which i found that the outer edge of my front left tyre was totally worn...rest of the tyre is fine...and edge of the other wheel is fine too...could someone give me a few possibilities as to why this might be happening? what would be more likely? camber or castor thats causing this? i'm open to any input as i'm scratching my head on this...had a wheel alignment about 4 weeks ago and it was all good then...please help...i don't want to go about chewing up expensive tyres unnecessarily...cheers...

I know that we're not meant to have discussions here but as mentioned before...dyno graphs would be useful...

I recently needed new coilpacks for my car...contemplated getting splitfires but went with the JJR ones instead as they were slightly cheaper...i can't compare them to splitfires as i've never used them but the JJR ones do work ok...they would have to i guess as they are newer than the standard 15-17 year old ones i had...not sure how long they'll last though...for now...its all good...one annoying thing with the JJR ones though is that Just Jap has stuck an annoying brand and details sticker on each of them which is a bit of a pain to remove...regardless...if anyone has any concrete results for the JJR coilpacks it would be nice to see...cheers...

Had the same problem on my car...locking tabs were there and gasket was newish...only got that funny surging whistling sound at above 12psi...i re-tightened the living daylights out of the nuts and put the tabs back on and the sound went away...it might be worth a shot...good luck...

Have a look at the 4 bolts that on the manifold to turbo flange...those bolts work themselves loose over time as well especially if you do not have the locking tabs on it...my first guess is that its leaking through that gasket...